Red Gully

Page Type
Route
Location:
Cairngorms, Scotland, Europe
Route Type:
Ice Climbing, Mixed
Season:
Winter
Time Required:
Half a day
Difficulty:
Scottish II/III
Number of Pitches:
3

Route Quality: 3 Votes

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Page By:
Red Gully
Created On: Jan 28, 2006
Last Edited On: Feb 15, 2009

Overview

Red gully is a classic grade II/III winter route that is one of the best at its grade in Coire an t-Sneachda.

Approach

Walk into Coire an t-Sneachda...Walk into Coire an t-Sneachda on a windy day


From Aviemore take bus or car upto the ski centre car park. Follow "climber's path" into Coire an t-Sneachda. On reaching the bouldered section bare slightly right towards the Goat track as Red Gully originates close by on the right hand side of fluted buttress. The start point is immediately left of the starting point for Goat Track Gully.

Approaching Fluted ButtressApproach to Red Gully. 'X' marks the start of the gully

Route Description

Of the 2 gullies clearly...Red Gully is the left of the two gully clearly visible in this photo


Red track gully begins directly left of Goat track gully. The route is well protected and can be easily done in 3 pitches.

1) The route initially climbs fairly steeply zigzagging slightly through a narrow chimney that often contains ice in quantity. The first pitch is the crux due to couple of overhung snow steps. There are Plenty of nut placements on route and a good belay spot where the gully temporarily broadens out.

2) Second pitch initially crosses an easy slabby ice section before the gully narrows again. This pitch along with the third pitch straight forward

3) Easy last pitch. Set up belay on rock just below summit

Descend via the goat track to the west.

Red Gully s routeRed Gully's route

Essential Gear

2 x technical axes
Rope
Helmet
Crampons
Harness
Nuts (I managed this route using nuts alone)
Ice screws for setting up initial belay

Double rope is highly recommended for this gully as gear placements likely to cause single rope to zigzag too much from one side of the gully to the other putting additional stress on gear in the event of a fall. There is no need to bring hexes or pegs for this route.