The Runnel

Page Type
Route
Location:
Cairngorms, Scotland, Europe
Route Type:
Ice Climbing, Mixed
Season:
Winter
Time Required:
Half a day
Difficulty:
Scottish II
Number of Pitches:
3

Route Quality: 4 Votes

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Page By:
The Runnel
Created On: Jan 28, 2006
Last Edited On: Feb 15, 2009

Overview

The Runnel is located on fluted buttress. It is a straightforward gully ascent with an interesting chimney on the last pitch.

Approach

From Aviemore take bus or car upto the ski centre car park. Follow "climber's path" into Coire an t-Sneachda. On reaching the boundered section bare straight ahead. There are three gullies on Fluted Buttress: Central Gully, The Runnel and Crotched Gully. The Runnel is the most well defined gully rising from the top of the snow bay in a vertical straight line.

Route Description

First pitch of the Runnel is is straight forward Scottish Grade 1The 1st pitch is straightforward (Scottish Grade 1)
The RunnelThe Runnel's route


The route is well potected requiring 3-4 pitches depending on whether you are using 50 or 60m rope.

1) Straightforward climb up gulley's snow slope
2) Again straightforward with a small ice step on route
3) The crux pitch through an icy chimney. Grooves either side of the chimney can also be climbed.

Essential Gear

2 x technical axes
Rope
Helmet
Crampons
Harness
Nuts
Pegs
Quickdraws
Screwgates
Rockcentrics
Ice screws

External Links

Great photos of the route

Cairngorm conditions reports

Current Cairngorm Weather