Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero

Page Type
Mountain/Rock
Location:
Belluno, Italy, Europe
County:
Dolomiti di Zoldo
Activities:
Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing
Elevation:
7913 ft / 2412 m
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Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero
Created On: Jul 1, 2012
Last Edited On: Apr 20, 2018

Overview


Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero 2412 m


What's New on this Page?

* Jul 28, 2017 - Ownership switched by andrea
* Jul 31, 2017 - Page under review

Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero, or simply Rocchetta Alta, is the fifth summit in height of the "Bosconero group", belonging to the Dolomiti di Zoldo. With the neighbour “Sasso di Bosconero" it has the most impressive wall facing the Val di Zoldo side (West). It's part and the major of a cluster of peaks called "Rocchette di Bosconero". The minors are: "Rocchetta Bassa" 2047m, "Cima dei Busa" 2107m, "Cima alta de la Nìsia" 2117m, "Spiz del Vant de la Serra" 2145m, "Cima de l'Albero" 2018m. Rocchetta Alta is located on the South side of the group.

The west side of Rocchetta Alta
The stunning West wall of Rocchetta Alta

 Most of the climbing routes are located on the West side above the Zoldo valley. Despite the altitude of the summit not very high - 2412 m - the walls have the lenght of 650/700m drop! It appears on the West side, from far, like a square rocky wall. If seen from its foot, it has the shape of a huge pyramid even more massive than from other points of view. If seen from East, it’s hidden from the “Sasso di Toanella". The two peaks are divided by a narrow couloir usually covered of snow called “Canalone di Rocchetta Alta”.

It hosts the most interesting climb routes of the whole group, especially on its West wall. That side can also be shared in 3 different parts: North pillar, West pillar and the “Spigolo Strobel” (Strobel spur) which is the most famous.

The east side, the easiest approach, is composed of terraces of crumbly rock. From here, usually descend the climbers who have climbed the opposite side.

The first ascent has been made by the group: Jeanne Immink/R. von Lichtemberg/Sepp Innerkofler/Pietro Dimai in the july 20th 1893 on the Northwest side.

Rocchetta Alta seen from refuge Bosconero

west side

Getting there

The group is located inside the “Dolomiti di Zoldo” region. For people coming from “Po Valley” the fastest way is reach the village of  Longarone, not far from the town of  Belluno, and in Longarone take on the left the road entering Valle di Zoldo. Another way to reach the Valle di Zoldo is from Feltre and Belluno across Agordo and Passo Duran (road n. 203).

From Turin or Milan or Venice: motorway A4 - Mestre - motorway A27.

Otherwise, reach the village of "Zoldo". It isn't the easiest way but very panoramic.
From "Feltre" or "Belluno": road n.203 – AgordoPasso DuranZoldo.

By plane
The nearest international airports are "Treviso", used for many low-cost flights, and "Venice" "Marco Polo".

By train
The nearest railway station is Longarone; Belluno station can also be used as the DolomitiBus service leaves from there for Longarone/Pecol.

By bus
Various buses of the DolomitiBus service leave from the Belluno bus station (opposite the railway station) and reach Val Zoldana in approx. 1hour.

The group
The group

Climbing routes

 

Climb routes

Climb routes

1: Via Martini/Leoni/Tranquillini
2: Via dei Polacchi
3: Via KCF
4: Via Navasa o Via delle Grole
5: Via delle Guide
6: Spigolo Strobel
7: Northeast spur

From west: (normal route) From the “Canalone di Rocchetta Bassa” – Valentino Angelini/Silvio Sperti – 26/08/1923 – 500m – II° - (this is the way to get back from the route on the west side)

Southeast spur: Pietro Sommavilla/Giovanni Gianeselli – 19/08/1965 – long approach and wild environment – 600m – II°/III° a passage of IV°

SSW wall: H.P.Geish/R.Goedeke – 20/07/1965 – great route, very good rock – 400m - IV°+/V°-

From southwest: Ivan Ducapa/Ezio Conti – summer 1981 – good rock – 200m – V°+

West pillar: G.De Marchi/A.Masucci/A.Segalin/P.Sperandio – 14/06/1981 – very good rock – V°+ A2

West flank: G.Da Damos/C.Angelini/P.Sommavilla/C.Andrich – 500m – IV°/V° A1

From northwest: (via dei canali-camini) – V. e G.Angelini/D.Tomassi – 19/08/1926 – one of the best of the ancient routes – 700m – III°

West spur/north pillar: G.Dolfi/E.Valicogna – 16/09/1972 – amusing and good rock – 650m – III°/IV°

NW wall/north pillar: S.Dorotei/A.Masucci – 17-18/10/1971 – great route and very good rock – 650m – V°/VI° A1/A2

Spigolo Strobel On Rocchetta Alta
Spigolo Strobel on Rocchetta Alta

NW spur: Spigolo StrobelB. Menardi/L. e S. Lorenzi/L. Da Pozzo/G. Zardini – 14-15/07/1964 – very fine route, dedicated to Albino Michielli aka “Strobel” – 650m – VI°+ A1/A2

North wall/north pillar: S.Martini/P.Leoni/M.Tranquillini - 2-6/09/1978 – 600m – VI° A3

North wall/north pillar: (via dei Polacchi) – A.Mirga/K.Zurek – 9-10/07/1977 – 650 – VI° A2

North wall/north pillar: Via Navasa o Via delle GroleM. Navasa/G. Dal Bosco/F. Baschera – 22-27/06/1965 – very important and classic route – 600m – VI° A1

North wall/north pillar: (via KCF) – R.Braumann/J.Vehse – 26-28/07/1970 – probably the hardest – 600m - VI° A1

Nort pillar: (via delle Guide) – 300m – VI°/VI°+

NE spur/north pillar: P.Sommavilla/C.Angelini – 17/07/1963 – 400m – III°/IV°

From northeast: (via Angelini/Sablich) – 11/08/1946 – III°

Red Tape

Bosconero Group map

No fees no permits required

Huts

 

The refuge  Bosconero

Casera di Bosconero 1457m
Open from: 20/06 - 20/09
Telephone: +393383713870
Keeper: Monica Bagatin tel. +393383713870
Property: CAI sez. Valzoldana tel. +39 0437 78100
Places: 28 winter 4

From lake of Pontesei 858 m, path 485, 2 hours E
From Passo Cibiana, path 485, 2 hours EE

When to climb

The best period goes from middle June to middle September

Meteo

ARPAV Dolomiti Meteo

Dolomiti Meteo Veneto

ARPAV DOLOMITI METEO Phone +390436780007 fax +390436780008

CENTRO VALANGHE DI ARABBA Phone +390436755711 fax 043679319 e-mail cva@arpa.veneto.it

Guidebooks and maps

  

Guidebooks


"Pelmo e Dolomiti di Zoldo" - Guida dei Monti d'Italia - G.Angelini & P.Sommavilla - (the book wherefrom I've got the informations for this page) - 1983

"Il Bosconero" - Tamari edizioni montagna - De Zordo Vittorio

"La Val di Zoldo" - Cierre edizioni - Bonetti Paolo/Lazzarin Paolo - 2009


Additional info

Tourist Office/Ufficio Turistico Provinciale di Zoldo Alto
Viale Dolomiti, 4
32010 Zoldo Alto (BL)
Tel. 0437 789145
Fax 0437 788878
www.infodolomiti.it
zoldoalto@infodolomiti.it








Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero

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