Page Type:
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Route |
|---|---|
Lat/Lon:
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53.22330°N / 117.80777°W |
Route Type:
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Ice Climbing |
Season:
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Winter |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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Grade 3 or 4 |
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Number of Pitches:
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3 |
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Grade:
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III |
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Overview
Drambuie Demon is easily visible on the south side of Highway 16 about 3-4 kilometres east of the Jasper Park Gates. This 3 pitch climb forms early (usually by mid/late November) and is one of the last climbs in the area to fall down. Depending on the year, it can be climbed until mid April.Getting There
The top pitch of Drambuie Demon, on the Grade 4 ice (in poor late season conditions)Park near the Overlander Lodge on Highway 16 and find the small access road that heads up toward the cliff. Follow this road for about 300 metres to its end. From the end of this road, there is a cut trail that descends to a creek - cross the creek and pick the trail up on the other side (sometimes difficult if you don't have tracks to follow and don't know the route). Follow the trail steeply up for about 200 metres - it then flattens out for another 500 metres until it tilts back and climbs steeply to the base of the falls. It takes 45 minutes to 1 hour to approach, depending on your fitness.
Route Description
The upper pitches of Drambuie Demon - the grade 4 pitches are to the left; grade 3 pitches to the right (not all visible). This picture is taken from the descent trail.Drambuie Demon is normally climbed in 3 pitches. The first pitch climbs a steep 10 metre wall, and then eases off to grade 2 rolling ice. Run this first pitch as high as you can and belay (preferably on the left side).
The second pitch is rolling grade 2 ice. Climb toward whichever ice you want to climb for your 3rd pitch.
There are many variations possible for the 3rd pitch. The ice on the left is steeper, longer and more technical - this ice is grade 4. There are usually 3 separate grade 3 columns to the right of the grade 4 ice that one can choose from. The ice column furthest to the right, is usually the easiest.
Depending on which line you take for your 3rd pitch, you can either belay from a tree at the top, or will have to build a "V-thread" to rappel back down.