Knuckle Gnasher

Page Type
Route
Location:
Alberta, Canada, North America
Route Type:
Ice Climbing
Season:
Winter
Time Required:
Half a day
Difficulty:
Grade 4
Number of Pitches:
2
Grade:
II

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Page By:
Knuckle Gnasher
Created On: Dec 12, 2007
Last Edited On: Dec 23, 2007

Overview

If this climb were closer to a bigger centre than Grande Prairie or Hinton it would deservedly become a trade route. The first pitch of climbing begins in a very cool canyon after a short 20-25 minute approach.

This grade pitch is followed by a bit of a slog up rambling ice to the upper pitches. If formed, some impressive 20-25 m pitches of ice can be climbed to the climber's right. If 20 metres of classic grade 4 or 5 ice is too much, there is typically a lower grade 30 m pitch straight ahead.

As this route and Evergreen Gully across the valley see less frequent traffic, you will find the beta in Joe Josephson's guide Ice Climbs in the Canadian Rockies is not all that accurate.
Upper Pitches of Knuckle Gnasher - Grande CacheThe Classic Grade 5 and 4 Upper Pitches of Knuckle Gnasher




Getting There

Driving through Grande Cache heading towards Grande Prairie continue for 13 km to the Gun Firing Range which is on the east (right) side of the highway. The ice on the bottom pitch is usually visible across the river to your right. Turn into the Gun Firing Range and park.

Approach

From the Gun Firing Range make your way up onto the railway tracks and follow these across the Smoky River. Please be smart and watch for trains.

Knuckle Gnasher from Evergreen Gully - Grande CacheKnuckle Gnasher From Evergreen Gully
First Pitch of Knuckle GnasherApproach to Knuckle Gnasher


Once across the river continue on the tracks until an old 4WD road becomes obvious. Turn right onto this road. Continue on the road for 5-10 minutes until a small creek bed becomes obvious to your left. Follow this creek to the base of the climb. Total approach is about 20 minutes.

Google Map Grande Cache to the Parking Area

Route Description

First Pitch Knuckle Gnasher - Grande CacheTopping Out the First Pitch

The Upper Pitches of Knuckle Gnasher - Grande CacheUpper Pitches
Pitch 1:
Follow the typically beautiful grade 3 ice for 20 metres. Belay off a tree.

Continue up rambling ice steps and scree to the base of the upper pitches. About 15-20 minutes.

Upper Pitch of Knuckle Gnasher - Grande CacheGrade 5 Pillar
Upper Pitches:

There is usually a selection of pitches awaiting you up top. Grade 2-3 ice is visible straight ahead. An impressive free standing grade 5 pillar sits beside a grade 4 wall of ice to the climber's left.

Descent

You can walk off to the climber's right. The descent is steep and often involves frozen turf. You may not enjoy this, but you will quickly forget all about reminiscing about the climb itself.

Essential Gear

Upper Pitches of Knickle Gnasher - Grande CacheThe Grade 4 Upper Pitch
Typical Ice Rack.

External Links

There are two great websites for ice conditions in the Canadian Rockies:

Gravsports-Ice

and

Live The Vision - Ice Conditions.