Südkante was first climbed in the year 1922 by Emile-Robert Blanchet. It contains about 350m rock climbing on the left edge of the S Face of the Jägihorn and crosses the eye-catching gendarm, which is climbed in 1 pitch with moves of 5a+. Overall difficulties lie between 3a and 4c.
The route was reequipped by Bergsportschule Weissmies in 2003 and has all the necessary belays and bolts in place. With a 60m (50m) rope it is possible to combine several pitches.
The route is described in plaisir
West by Jurg von Kanel.
There are 2 possibilities to approach the base of the route:
- starting from the Weissmieshütte after an overnight stay. Follow a small trail N of the hut in the direction of the S Face.
- starting from Kreuzboden by taking the cable car from Saas Grund early in the morning. Start in NE direction, cross the water and head to the S Face.
In both cases you can pick up the blue-white (alpine path) marks of the normal route to the Jägihorn after a while. Follow them until you can traverse right to the grassy slopes at the base of the face. To reach the start of Südkante, traverse the slopes to left until you are right below the gendarm.
Südkante poses no routefinding problems at all. From the start of the route, climb directly to the base of the gendarm. After climbing the gendarm, the route stays more or less on the crest of the ridge. The bolts in place will guide you in the good direction. The route ends just below the cross at the summit.
Descent is very easy and quickly by following the blue-white marks of the normal route. It is not advised to rapel the route because of the limited angle of the face.
Everything you need for a normal rock climb. A double 50m rope or a single 70m rope, helmet, 10 to 12 quickdraws will be sufficient. Don't forget that it's an alpine rock climb and weather conditions can change abrupt, so carry a raincover and warm clothes with you.