Breche de Roland
The shortest route to climb the Gabietos is from the French side beginning in the Col de Tentes (2208m), but it's not an evident route after the Breche de Roland and generally don't exist path to collado Blanco.
See the main page to approach to Gavarnie and col de Tentes.
The access to Refuge de Sarradets and the Breche de Roland is the same of normal route of Taillon:
-Col de Tentes
-San Nicolás de Bujaruelo
Collado Blanco Coll.Blanco & Gabieto
On the Breche we'll leave the paths. The path to left side of the Breche is the Paso de los Sarrios to peak Casco and it’s not the route. Near of the evident path of Taillon (right side) we’ll descend across some stones to left of this path. On the bottom of this ramp we’ll cross a “sea of rocks” like a small labyrinth to reach a clear area. We'll see on left side the path to Refuge de Góriz but we'll follow on right side some cairns in an area without path. The best reference in a nice peak always on front of us, lighlty to left, is the Pico Blanco (2919m) and it's the peak at South of our target of collado Blanco (2800m). After some repises among the rocks and small valleys we’ll reach the col. On the col we'll turn to right (N.W.) descending to cross to the other side of South spun of peak Taillon. We'll arrive to a zone with stones (inclination of 30º with snow) to follow to right under the S.W. face of Taillon in direction of the evidente col between Gabietos and Taillon. The best option to evitate the descent to the valley is across some narrow repises on right side with many attention to cairns. This point is dangerous if remain snow. At the col of Gabietos we'll turn to left (West) across a narrow ridge (I or I+, generally with the posibility of border the ridge across a few of narrow repises on left side of the ridge). Finally we'll can attach the first summit across a very easy path with a lot of small stones to appear on left side of the summit. A very easy climb (F) brings us to the nice summit of Gabieto Oriental (East, 3031m) with spectacullar view of Taillon and the main summit.
To reach the main summit the best option is a little descent across the same path of ascension turning after 20 meters to right. If we’ll go across the ridge we'll find a section of P.D.inf (II) to descent. Under the ridge we'll search some repises to arrive to the bottom of main peak and across a path we'll reach the final cone. The access to the summit og Gabieto Occidental (West, 3034m) is across a repise on Northe side (exposed but easy, F).
For the descent is possible to reach the col of Gabietos across some path of stones between the two peaks, returning to trailhead across the same route.
Sketch of route to summit
-A map is very advisable, it exist a lot of maps of Ordesa and Gavarnie.
-Crampons and ice-axe early on the season (may-june, some years even in july) because in the traverse from collado Blanco and collado de Gabietos the snow remain.
-Rope ? not except in winter because the access to the summit is exposed with snow. Generally in winter the use of ski is possible.
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