Solunska Glava from Bogomila

Page Type
Mokra Planina, Macedonia, Europe
Route Type:
Tough Hike
Time Required:
A long day
Long walk up

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Created On: Sep 9, 2004
Last Edited On: Oct 18, 2005

About Route

From Bogomila village southern approach to Solunska Glava leads. Bogomila is traditional Macedonian village in the Babuna valley, placed between the sides of Jakupica and Dautica mountains. Bogomila is quite picturesque place, some houses are in quite bad shape but it adds to the effect. Through the village runs Skopje – Bitola rail so it is accessible by train. By car it is reached from Veles town in the valley of Vardar river, which is some 43km away. Road is quite narrow and winding. If you are coming by public transport this is where walking begins. If you are by car you’ll continue 7km up the valley till Nezilovo village. At Nezilovo macadam towards Ceples begins. It is 14km long and on spots in quite bad shape. It goes through the Babuna river valley while marked path goes through side valley of Dautica mountain.

This approach to Solunska Glava is very diverse but quite long. Route begins in warm and low valley which is quite forested, mostly by oaks. In the village there are lots of fruit trees, especially plum trees. Further up is beech forest with some spruce and fir. Forest provides desirable shade from the hot Macedonian Sun. Above the tree line are imposing cliffs, open grassy slopes and panoramic ridges. In the lower part both marked path or macadam road go by the creeks.

Route is divided in two sections:

Section 1) Bogomila – Nezilovo – Ceples hut: 4h or 7km + 2.30h
Section 2) Ceples hut – Solunska Glava: 3.30h

Section 1) Bogomila – Nezilovo – Ceples hut: 4h or 7km + 2.30h

Follow the main road through the quite long village. In the distance eastern face of Solunska Glava attracts the sight. Below it, on the distant green shoulder, you can notice tiny white dot; that is Ceples hut. Above the village road continues to ascent gradually, mostly through oak forest or by the cultivated small fields. Most of the time Babuna creek is by the road. After 1.30h you are at Nezilovo village.

At the end of asphalt bridge takes you to the other side of the Babuna creek (village and creek are right now). Few minutes behind valley floor widens. On the right is restaurant and fish-pond. Here is important junction! Ceples hut is left and marked path goes into the side valley while macadam towards the hut continues straight. If you are planning to visit source of Babuna continue on the road. After 1.30h, on one left serpentine, is junction where path branches right towards the source, it takes 30mins to get there. Once back on the road 1h is still left to the hut. If you are not visiting Babuna source then marked path is better choice.

Marks follow the narrow tractor track up the valley. By the track there are so many blackberries and plums on the trees in August. After a while there is sharp right turn where track, over the bridge, crosses the creek. In a short while there is another left serpentine. Track is now gradually disappearing and turning into the path. After some 30-40mins you are in the deep and very nice beech forest. There is not much to say further on. Path ascends continuously through the forest, without any breaks, on places quite steeply. When you reach slopes that are overgrown by fern Ceples is close. During these open sections nice views open towards grassy peaks of Dautica that tower high above. Just below the hut path reaches the macadam road where is nice water source, few dozen meters above Ceples hut stands.

Section 2) Ceples hut – Solunska Glava: 3.30h

Path continues towards Solunska Glava between the kitchen and main house. It ascends through dense fern some 10mins till the beech forest. Through beautiful forest ascent continues and path gains altitude quite steeply.

1h from the hut forest opens; you are on beautiful meadows from where amazing view towards Solunska Glava and its eastern face opens. After 5mins you are at water source. On it is marble plate dedicated to Milo Kozar, who died in WW II.

At the source path turns sharply left and continues to ascent through the mixed forest. After some 20mins you are finally above it, on open slopes, where beside grass only dwarf pine grows. In many serpentines path ascends up the steep side. Deep below is Babuna valley floor. In next 30mins you’ll reach small grassy terrace which is suitable for rest.

Above the terrace, beside the marks on the rocks, 2m high wooden pickets also show the direction. 15mins above is pass where you finally reach the ridge, 2.15h from Ceples hut. Quite far in front is beautiful cone of Solunska Glava and well visible, but quite small, military object and weather station.

Path continues to ascend gradually through the shallow valley between east face ridge, which is on the right, and grassy peaks of Dautica, on the left. It is much better to leave the path and continue towards the summit via the edge of the face. From it are fantastic views into the depths of Babuna valley. Path is parallel with it anyway. This not advisable only when windy.

After some 40mins you are at the foot of the summit pyramid with 200m of vertical gain still ahead. Left is wide grassy plateau between the peaks of Dautica, Karadjica and Solunska Glava. Through the wide passage view towards west spreads. On the horizon is Sar Planina Mountain. Path ascends in serpentines towards the wired summit. When you reach the wire marks will take you left by it to the gate of the object, 30mins from the foot of summit pyramid, 3.30h from Ceples.

As mentioned in ‘Red Tape’ section put the camera in backpack somewhere along the final summit ascent to avoid problems with military.

Solunska Glava from Bogomila

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