Spigolo Giallo / Gelbe Kante

Spigolo Giallo / Gelbe Kante

Page Type: Route
Lat/Lon: 46.62460°N / 12.30330°E
Route Type: Trad Climbing
Season: Summer
Rock Difficulty: 5.9 (YDS)
Number of Pitches: 8
Grade: VI


The route follows the almost vertical south arete of the lower summit of the peak. First climbed by Comici, Varale and Zanutti in 1933.

The difficulties of this route are not very big. The main problem is that the route is overrun and thus polished smooth. On nice days one must expect to wait at least 2 hours.

The first and second pitches are truly polished smooth. Whoever is not used to such conditions will lose a few drops of sweat. Only after the 8th pitch can one speak of pleasure climbing. Only then is one truly on the "Spigolo Giallo" or "Gelbe Kante" (Yellow Edge). The exposure is really neat and the view downward between yourlegs to the Lavaredo Hut will take your breath away!

350 meters vertical, about 13 pitches, 5 hours (excluding wait times).

Getting There

From the Auronzo hut on the usual trail to the Patern saddle. After the smal chapel, turn left onto a narow path and reach in 15 minutes the foot of the wall of the Kleine Zinne. The start of the climb is at a definite corner. The Lavaredo Hut may also serve as a base. 20 minutes from the hut to the start.

Route Description

After 2 to 3 pitches in the corner, the route at first runs through somewhat easier terrain (UIAA II). A groove and then a short wall is climbed to a traverse to the left. The one climbs to the edge of a yellow colored arete edge and follows it toi a final vertical section. One can now climb somewhat easier to the right . Staying on the arete itself is harder and there is loose rock. After reaching the lower summit (Anticima) of the Cima Piccola (Kleine Zinne) one traverse the saddle easily to the summit of the Cima Piccola via the usual Innerkofler route.

Descent is via the rappel route, which one reaches after crossing the saddle. Be careful in the gully after rappelling. There are routes both sides of the gully and one be careful of rockfall.

Essential Gear

8 to 10 Express slings, Freinds or other cams and a few slings. A 60 meter rope is sufficient.