If you're looking for a good place in A-Hills for winter time climbing, here's a new set of south facing formations that were developed in 2009 by Em Holland, Dave Daly and the late Brutus Of Wyde. Of course, if you're a frequent flyer of Alabama Hills climbing, you know that most of the formations that face north own the best rock quality. Fear not, these lofty formations yield good rock and plenty of warm sunlight! And with most places in the Hills, the approach is only a pebbles throw away.
Setting Sail To 'The Penguins'
While heading west on Whitney Portal Rd, take a left on Horseshoe Meadows Rd and drive approx. 0.9 mile, passing two dirt roads (both on the left side) along the way. At the third dirt road, turn left. When the road forks, stay left and follow it along the base of a host of formations while heading eastward. A few short formations next to the road have routes on them. These formations are known as 'The Candy Store' Continue past these formations until a turnout appears on the left. Turn left here and down to a dead end "circle". Park here. One can see the formations 50 yards to the north.
Routes On 'The Penguins'
(Refer to the page profile photo for most routes)
The Emperor Block:
-Unknown (5.9) F.A, Tim Standing (10/2008)
-Stem Cell Research (.10a/b) F.A, Em Holland, Bruce Bindner and Dave Daly (01/2009)
-My Little Lab Rat (.10b) F.A, Dave Daly, Em Holland, Bruce Bindner and John Slaeger (01/2009)
-Unknown (5.7) F.A, Unknown (possibly Mike Strausmann). Route is on the northeast corner.
-Tuxedo Junction (5.7) F.A, Em Holland and Bruce Bindner (02/2009)
-Who Sez I'm Not?! (5.9) F.A, Em Holland and Bruce Bindner (02/2009)
-Unknown (5.9) F.A, Unknown (possibly Mike Strausmann)
Chinstrap Rock (located directly in front of East Penguin):
-Penguello (5.7) F.A. Dave Daly, Bruce Bindner, Em Holland (02/2009)
- (10) quickdraws
- pro to 2"
- 60 meter rope