Tonis Lust

Overview

Tonis Lust

A perfect granite, a superb setting, a good approach trail, several logical and fine climbing routes - about 20 - an agreeable hut, lying close to the peak: these are the reasons of the popularity of Bergseeschijen, one of the most climbed mountains in the Uri Alps. Bergseeschijen is situated in the upper part of the Göschener Tal, a magnificent valley well known to the mountaineers because of another great peak, the Salbitschijen, famous in reason of its fantastic rock climbs.

Bergseeschijen SSE wall and S ridge are about 320 m drop. Tonis Lust is a very fine route running on SSE face with solid rock and two different and distinct climbing styles: the first pitches are technical, rising along some smooth and sloping slabs, while the following pitches climb run on steeper rocks and by a bit athletic climbing style. Equipped with fix.

Getting There

From Andermatt - the small town located at St. Gotthard Tunnel’s northern exit (Uri Province) - follow the road towards Göschenen (5 Km. from Andermatt); in Göschenen turn to left, leaving the main road, and follow the road rising along the Göschenen Valley and getting to Goscheneralpsee, an amazing place with a fine artificial lake (9 km. from Goschenen). Parking. Hotel.

A well worn path starts from here, leading in two hours to the Bergsee Hut SAC (Swiss Alpine Club), mt. 2370, open in summer, situated just below Bergseeschijen.

Tonis Lust report

Tonis Lust report - French scale

Summit altitude: mt. 2815
Difficulty: TD inf., F5c
Equipment: fix
Climbing length: 300 m.
Exposure: SSE
First ascent: Tony Fullin - Tony Gamma 1994
Starting point: Göscheneralp m. 1602 Hut: Bergsee Hütte SAC m. 2370

Tonis Lust is a fine route on solid granite, clearly divided in two different sections, requiring two different climbing ways: the first pitches are technical, rising along some smooth and sloping slabs, while the following pitches climb on steeper rocks and by a bit athletic climbing style. Route equipped with fix. Quick parties can climb the route in a long day directly from the Goscheneralp. If you want to take it easy, you can spend the night at Bergsee Hütte (2370 m). From Tatsch a good trail leads to Bergsee Hütte (2 hours).

Tonis Lust report (French Scale)

From Bergsee Hütte head towards right to take a steep slope reaching a little col, situated below Bergseeschijen classic South Ridge, between this latter and a detached tower named Vorbau (10 min.). From here follow a ledge towards right, running below a fine and compact granite slab with different routes’ starting points. Follow the ledge for about 15-20 meters; Tonis Lust starting point is situated on the right end of the ledge, just before the ledge ends near a rocky step.

L1 – Climb a smooth slab, then some thin cracks to the belay (5b). Technical climb.
L2 – Some little walls with thin cracks to a belay under a little ridge (4b).
L3 – With easy climb along the ridge, then towards left to the belay (3c).
L4 - Towards right climb a little corner, then slantways along easier rocks, reaching a belay below the route’s steeper second part (4c).
L5 - A bit slantways to a slope with thin cracks and small corners, then up along a steep wall (5b).
L6 – A steep climb up along some corners and a crack (5c).

L7- Towards left with a curious pass, then climb a cracks’system along a slab to a belay below a deep corner (5c).
L8 – Up along the corner, then a slab to a comfortable stance along South Ridge classic Route (5b).
L9 and L10 – Climb the South Ridge last two pitches until a horizontal ridge which leads to the summit. A wide spectacular views over the Uri Alps range.

Descent: along the Normal Route, an easy scramble with a short equipped section.

Essential Gear and Climbing Grades

Ropes, ten express, helmet. Nut: 4-9 Friends: 1-2

Climbing Grades:

Other routes

- South Face

The most frequented and classic route is South Ridge, a fine and not too hard climb, D - mainly from 3a to 4b, two moves grading 4c in the middle and near the summit, 300 m drop. On the left of S ridge we find:

- Aladin 5c, a short four pitches route

On the compact and magnificent South face there are now several satisfactory routes. From the S ridge starting point follow a ledge towards right, running below the fine and compact granite slab to get S face different route’s starting points.

Starting from the S Ridge towards right:

- Via Andrea 5a, 300 m., last four pitches on S Ridge
- Via Claudia 5c+, 300 m., last four pitches on S Ridge
- Tonis Lust 5c, 300 m., last two pitches on S Ridge
- Via Esther 6a, 300 m., last two pitches on S Ridge
- SE Pillar 5c, 300 m.

Grosse Ostwand (Great East Face)
- E Pfeiler (East Pillar) 6a+, 250 m.
- Gunggel 6a+, 250 m. Fine route; the starting point is about in the middle between E Pfeiler and the little col on the descent route.
- Congratulation 5c+, 200 m.
- Sunnaglanz 5c, 180 m.
- Fuba 5c, 150 m.

Kleine Ostwand (Little East Face)

- Morgenstund 5a
- Aquarius 5c
- Munggawag 5c+
- Habakuk 5c+
- Bellissima 6a
- Friwag 6a
- Oktoberluft 5c+
- Blonds Gift 5c+

Red Tape

No particulary restrictions in climbing, hiking and mountaineering

Hut

Bergseehütte 2370 m - SAC Angestein, 4000 Basel, Phone 0041 41 885 14 35

Always open guarded from june to the end of October
Guardians: Toni and Maria Fullin Kirchstrasse 17 6454 Flüelen
Phone: tel: 0041 41 870 68 32

When to climb

Best season goes from middle June to middle October.

Meteo

METEOSWITZERLAND

Guidebooks and maps

"Schweiz Plaisir Ost" by Jurg Von Kanel - Edition Filidor