A perfect granite, a superb setting, a good approach trail, several logical and fine climbing routes - about 20 - an agreeable hut, lying close to the peak: these are the reasons of the popularity of Bergseeschijen, one of the most climbed mountains of the Uri Alps. Bergseeschijen is situated in the upper part of the Göschener Tal, a magnificent valley well known to the mountaineers because of another great peak, the Salbitschijen, famous in reason of its fantastic rock climbs.
Bergseeschijen SSE wall and S ridge are about 320 m drop.
Tonis Lust is a very fine route running on SSE face with solid rock and two different and distinct climbing styles: the first pitches are technical, rising along some smooth and sloping slabs, while the following pitches climb run on steeper rocks and by a bit athletic climbing style. Equipped with fix.
From Andermatt - the small town located at St. Gotthard Tunnel’s northern exit (Uri Province) - follow the road towards Göschenen (5 Km. from Andermatt); in Göschenen turn to left, leaving the main road, and follow the road rising along the Göschenen Valley and getting to Goscheneralpsee, an amazing place with a fine artificial lake (9 km. from Goschenen). Parking. Hotel.
A well worn path starts from here, leading in two hours to the Bergsee Hut SAC (Swiss Alpine Club), mt. 2370, open in summer, situated just below Bergseeschijen.
Tonis Lust report - French scale
Summit altitude: mt. 2815
Difficulty: TD inf., F5c
Climbing length: 300 mt.
First ascent: Tony Fullin - Tony Gamma 1994
Starting point: Göscheneralp mt. 1602
Hut: Bergsee Hütte SAC m. 2370
Tonis Lust is a fine route on solid granite, clearly divided in two different sections, requiring two different climbing ways: the first pitches are technical, rising along some smooth and sloping slabs, while the following pitches climb on steeper rocks and by a bit athletic climbing style. Route equipped with fix.
Quick parties can climb the route in a long day directly from the Goscheneralp. If you want to take it easy, you can spend the night at Bergsee Hütte (2370 m). From Tatsch a good trail leads to Bergsee Hütte (2 hours).
Tonis Lust report (French Scale)
From Bergsee Hütte head towards right to take a steep slope reaching a little col, situated below Bergseeschijen classic South Ridge, between this latter and a detached tower named Vorbau (10 min.). From here follow a ledge towards right, running below a fine and compact granite slab with different routes’ starting points. Follow the ledge for about 15-20 meters; Tonis Lust starting point is situated on the right end of the ledge, just before the ledge ends near a rocky step.
L1 – Climb a smooth slab, then some thin cracks to the belay (5b). Technical climb.
L2 – Some little walls with thin cracks to a belay under a little ridge (4b).
L3 – With easy climb along the ridge, then towards left to the belay (3c).
L4 - Towards right climb a little corner, then slantways along easier rocks, reaching a belay below the route’s steeper second part (4c).
L5 - A bit slantways to a slope with thin cracks and small corners, then up along a steep wall (5b).
L6 – A steep climb up along some corners and a crack (5c).
L7- Towards left with a curious pass, then climb a cracks’system along a slab to a belay below a deep corner (5c).
L8 – Up along the corner, then a slab to a comfortable stance along South Ridge classic Route (5b).
L9 and L10 – Climb the South Ridge last two pitches until a horizontal ridge which leads to the summit. A wide spectacular views over the Uri Alps range.
Descent: along the Normal Route, an easy scramble with a short equipped section.
Ropes, ten express, helmet. Nut: 4-9 Friends: 1-2
|Rock Climbing Rating Systems|
- South Face
The most frequented and classic route is South Ridge, a fine and not too hard climb, D - mainly from 3a to 4b, two moves grading 4c in the middle and near the summit, 300 m drop. On the left of S ridge we find:
- Aladin 5c, a short four pitches route
On the compact and magnificent South face there are now several satisfactory routes. From the S ridge starting point follow a ledge towards right, running below the fine and compact granite slab to get S face different route’s starting points.
Starting from the S Ridge towards right:
- Via Andrea 5a, 300 m., last four pitches on S Ridge
- Via Claudia 5c+, 300 m., last four pitches on S Ridge
- Tonis Lust 5c, 300 m., last two pitches on S Ridge
- Via Esther 6a, 300 m., last two pitches on S Ridge
- SE Pillar 5c, 300 m.
Grosse Ostwand (Great East Face)
- E Pfeiler (East Pillar) 6a+, 250 m.
- Gunggel 6a+, 250 m. Fine route; the starting point is about in the middle between E Pfeiler and the little col on the descent route.
- Congratulation 5c+, 200 m.
- Sunnaglanz 5c, 180 m.
- Fuba 5c, 150 m.
Kleine Ostwand (Little East Face)
- Morgenstund 5a
- Aquarius 5c
- Munggawag 5c+
- Habakuk 5c+
- Bellissima 6a
- Friwag 6a
- Oktoberluft 5c+
- Blonds Gift 5c+
No particulary restrictions in climbing, hiking and mountaineering
Bergseehütte 2370 m - SAC Angestein, 4000 Basel, Phone 0041 41 885 14 35
Always open guarded from june to the end of October
Guardians: Fullin Toni e Maria
tel: 0041 41 870 68 32
Mountain Range Dammastok - Salbitschijen
Best season goes from middle June to middle October.
"Schweiz Plaisir Ost" by Jurg Von Kanel - Edition Filidor