Torre Occidentale Meisules dala Biesces

Overview

Torre Occidentale Meisules dala Biesces 2336 m

The Torre Occidentale Meisules dala Biesces is a tower belonging to the Sella Group, situated in the middle of a fine group formed by some impressive walls and rock towers, as the Torre Orientale Meisules dala Biesces and the main wall of Meisules dala Biesces. These walls overhang the road going up in the direction of Passo Gardena from the Val Gardena side and it's a wonderful place to climb. The largest number of routes is located on the North Wall of the Torre Orientale and on the West wall of the Meisules dala Biesces. The Torre Occidentale offers a couple of fine and challenging trad routes on the North-West wall and the historic route Vinatzer,  even this one demanding, on the Nort-East wall. 

The setting is lovely and the views are breathtaking over the Sassolungo group and the surrounding peaks belonging to the Sella group.  Torre Occidentale, as well as the other two walls mentioned above, is easily and quickly accessible (less than 30 minutes) from the road rising to Passo Gardena from the Val Gardena side. 

Getting There

The closest place is Passo Gardena.

- From Trento and Bolzano: Take the Brennero motorway, exit Bolzano North, then follow the road leading to Ponte Gardena. From here take the road to Val Gardena, pass Ortisei and reach Santa Cristina and Selva di Val Gardena. Pass Selva and at the following crossroad take to the left the road to Passo Gardena. Beyond Hotel Gerard, on the left of the road, there is a long straight stretch with a small pull out on the left. Parking.

Route: Via Vinatzer

Via Vinatzer

Summit altitude: m 2336 Difficulty: UIAA VI+ max  Length: 190 m, 7 pitches Exposure: North-East  L4 - In angled right to a dihedral system reach the base of a dihedral vertical fissure, V-, 20 mL5 - Climb the dihedral-crack up to a stop on a spike, V +, 30 m.L6 - Go up through a succession of dihedrons in oblique to the right until a stop under a small roof, V, 40 mFirst ascent: G.B. Vinatzer and G. Peroso 1936

A fine old-school climb, mainly on dihedrals and cracks. The route is rather challenging, especially the first pitch, with a few pegs in place and some rare possibilities of supplementary protection.   

Approach

Find a small trail upstream of the road and follow it,  at first to the left then directly,  to the clearly visible North-East wall of the tower. Arrived at the left end of the wall,  climb a small gully on the left of the tower and with a short passage in a bottleneck (short move of III degree) reach the start of the route.

Route report  (UIAA scale)

L1 - Climb a very difficult dihedral-fissure of compact rock, 1 peg, VI +, 35 m. Challenging pitch with little chance of protection 

L2 - Slanting to the right, then on a  yellowish vertical blade and again to the left at the base of a large chimney, V, 30 m

L3 - Climb the chimney and exit to the right until a belay on a hole, V+, then IV+, 30 m

L4 - Slanting right climb  a dihedral system,  reaching the base of a vertical dihedral-crack, V-, 20 m

L5 - Climb the dihedral-crack up to a belay on a outcrop, V +, 30 m.

L6 - Up on a succession of small dihedrals slanting right to a belay under a small roof, V, 40 m

L7 -  Climb a crack on the right of the roof, then slanting left to take another crack, yellow and overhanging, which gives access to the green summit with grass and firs, VI-, 40 m

Descent: cross the green summit meadow toward the South, at the end of the grass enter a gully on the right (South), at the beginning steep and a little unstable,  that you follow at first walking. A short 15 m abseil in the middle of the gully leads to the last easy scramble and to the base of the tower

Other routes

On the North-West wall:

- Via "su ndret" VII-, 200 m - First ascent: A. Holzknecht and K. Vinatzer 1987

- Via Triathlon  V+, a trait VI, 200 m - First ascent: M. Olzowy and co. 1985

Essential gear

Rope 55 m., helmet, some quickdraws, friends 2-3-4-5, stopper 4-6

Red Tape

No permits, no fees required 

When to Climb

Best period from June to September 

Where to stay

The closest places to stay are located on Passo Gardena and along the road to Passo Gardena. Otherwise you can stay in Selva di Valgardena or in Corvara in Badia, this latter on the opposite side of Passo Gardena. 

Meteo

METEO BOLZANO ALTO ADIGE

Guidebooks and maps

"Arrampicare in Val Gardena e dintorni"  Vol. I - Mauro Bernardi  Ed. Athesia

"Arrampicare in Val Gardena e dintorni"  Vol II - Mauro Bernardi ed. Athesia