Torre Orientale Meisules dala Biesces

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Bolzano Alto Adige, Italy, Europe
Trentino Alto-Adige
Trad Climbing
7644 ft / 2330 m
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Torre Orientale Meisules dala Biesces
Created On: Oct 29, 2015
Last Edited On: Mar 12, 2018


Torre Orientale Meisules dala Biesces m. 2330

Torre Orientale Meisules dala Biesces is a nice tower belonging to the Sella Group, easily and quickly accessible from the road rising to Passo Gardena from the Val Gardena side. This mountain area overlooking the road with impressive walls and rocky towers is a wonderful place to climb. On the steep Northern face of this tower there are high difficulty routes, while the Western face is less steep and compact. An advisable pleasant and fun route - not very difficult - is situated on this gently angled wall.
The setting is lovely and the views are breathtaking over the Sassolungo group and the surrounding peaks located in the Sella group.

Getting There

The closest place is Passo Gardena.

- From Trento and Bolzano: Take the Brennero motorway, exit Bolzano North, then follow the road leading to Ponte Gardena. From here take the road to Val Gardena, pass Ortisei and reach Santa Cristina and Selva di Val Gardena. Pass Selva and at the following crossroad take to the left the road to Passo Gardena. Beyond Hotel Gerard, on the left of the road, there is a long straight stretch with a small pull out on the left. Parking.

A magic cloud
Scenery along Via Giulia

Route: Via Giulia

Via Giulia

Summit altitude: m 2330
Difficulty: UIAA IV+ max
Length: 200 m, 8 pitches
Exposure: West
First ascent: G. Demetz 2010

The route runs on the western side of the tower, near the edge separating the W wall from the wall of the route Brunsin. Classic route with all equipped belays and several natural protections alternating with a few pegs. Via Giulia has constant difficulty (IV / IV +) and never excessive, ideal for those who want safely to take familiarity with the use of fast protections.

Via Giulia topo route

Via Giulia topo

Approach: in front of the pull out on Passo Gardena road take a small track rising along the slopes towards the tower located just to the right of a waterfall, named Cascata del Murfreid.

1st pitch:
Climb the beautiful slab and then along grassy steps reach the stance (2 pegs and holes). 35 Mt., IV, IV +, III, 4 pegs.

2nd pitch:
Move rightward and climb the next slab to the next belay (1 pegs and 1 holes with slings).
30 Mt., IV, III +, 3 holes with slings

3rd pitch:
Always continue on slabs up to the stance (2 holes).
25 Mt., IV, II, 3 holes with slings, 1 peg

4th pitch:
Follow an edge up towards the vertical wall. On the right it starts a chimney at the base of which we stop (2 pegs) 30 Mt., IV, III, II, 4 holes with slings

5th pitch:
Follow the chimney, traverse right a few meters and take the chimney again after which we belay (2 pegs).
30 Mt., IV, II, IV +, 2 holes with slings

6th Pitch:
Up keeping the right of the edge and reaching the belay (2 pegs and 1 hole) 30 Mt., IV, 1 peg, 2 holes with slings

7th Pitch:
To the right of the stance head to the yellow wall. Move a bit to the right and get up a couple of meters reaching the belay (2 holes with slings)
25 Mt., IV, 1 hole with sling, one intermediate belay (1 peg, 1 hole)

8th Pitch:
Move left and then climb easy rocks reaching the summit meadows. Continue up to the big blocks where it's possible to belay (to be equipped). 40 Mt., IV, II, 2 holes with sling

Easily reach the summit cairn.

Descent: From the top head to the Campanile del Murfrëit (South), then follow a horizontal ledge and a narrow path to the waterfall of Murfrëit. Reached the path on the scree, descend along it, then turn to left and descend to the road. 0.40 min. from the summit

Essential Gear

Rope 50 m., helmet, 7 quickdraws, some medium friends

Red Tape

No permits, no fees required

When to Climb

Best period from June to September

Where to stay

Road to Passo Gardena with Murfreid walls  and Sassolungo
Road to Passo Gardena with Murfreid walls and Sassolungo

The closest places to stay are located on Passo Gardena and along the road to Passo Gardena. Otherwise you can stay in Selva di Valgardena or in Corvara in Badia, this latter on the opposite side of Passo Gardena.


"Arrampicare Dolomiti Nord Occidentali" - Matteo Bertolotti, Luca Galbiati, Francesco Vascellari ed. Vividolomiti

"Arrampicare in Val Gardena e dintorni" - Mauro Bernardi ed. Athesia

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Torre Orientale Meisules dala Biesces

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