Torre Romana

Overview

Torre Romana 2290 m

Cinque Torri group in the Cortina Dolomites is a small and fine area of spires, towers, pinnacles - seeming to be five, but actually more than five - located between Croda da Lago to the East and Tofana di Rozes to the West. This area offers several sport climbs as well as many classic multipitch routes, getting to the airy summits of the spires.

Torre Romana, with Torre Lusy and Torre Barancio, forms a small excellent tryad, showing the shape of stunning narrow pinnacles, which is known as the complex of the Second Tower.

Torre Romana is located very close to Torre Barancio. It is climbed on the narrow Northern side following the route "Diedro Scoiattoli" (Squirrels Dihedral), a direct line on excellent grey “dolomia”. Torre Romana  has also a normal route, opened in 1912 by Zaccaria Pompanin with unknown customers.

Getting There

The closest town is Cortina d’Ampezzo. Two different road approachs are possible depending if you're coming from Bolzano or Belluno.

- From Bolzano: take the Brennero Highway, exit to Bressanone and take the Val Pusteria, getting Brunico and Dobbiaco; here turn to right to Val di Landro, reaching Carbonin and then Cortina d’Ampezzo. In Cortina take the road SS48 to Passo Falzarego.

- From Belluno: follow the road SS 51 to Longarone and Pieve di Cadore; in Pieve turn to left, getting to Cortina d’Ampezzo, and here take the road SS48 to Passo Falzarego as for the previous point.

The starting point of the three different possible approachs to Cinque Torri is the road Cortina – Falzarego.

Approachs to Cinque Torri

Three possibilities:

- by the Cinque Torri chair lift to Rifugio Scoiattoli m. 2255; the chair-lift station is situated along the main Falzarego road 3 km before (east) of Passo Falzarego if coming from Cortina d'Ampezzo

- by foot on the path rising from the chair-lift station to Rifugio Scoiattoli m. 2255

- by car to Rifugio Cinque Torri m. 2137; coming from Cortina d'Ampezzo take the road Cortina - Passo Falzarego, pass the locality of Pocol and after about 2 km turn to left on the road to Rifugio Scoiattoli

Route: Diedro Scoiattoli

Diedro Scoiattoli description

Difficulty: V- (UIAA scale)
Length: 105 m
Pitches: 4
Exposure: North

Steep climb on dihedral, excellent rock, fine setting

Approach - Torre Romana, as well as the other spires of Cinque Torri group, can be reached either from Rifugio Scoiattoli and Rifugio Cinque Torri.

- From Rifugio Scoiattoli head towards the towers and leftwards follow a path skirting Torre Grande and leading to the base of Torre Romana (10 min.)

- From Rifugio Cinque Torri follow the good path starting and climbing up, then ignore the branch rising towards Torre Grande and take on the right the horizontal path getting briefly below the tryad Torre Lusy, Barancio and Romana (15 min).

Route description

The starting point of the climb is situated below the perfect dihedral on the north face, dividing Torre Romana on the right and Torre Barancio on the left.

Pitch 1 - An easy and brief slab leads below the dihedral-chimney. Up it with steep climb, III, IV+, IV-, 32 m. Pitch 2 - The crux pitch. Climb the dihedral chimney with sustained climb, IV, V-, 32 m Pitch 3 - Inside the dihedral again with easier climb, II+, IV, 28 m Pitch 4 - Short pitch on a sloping slab, leading to the summit, III, 12 m

Descent: two abseil on South face (25 m + 25 m)

Red Tape

No fees no permits needed to climb or hike. Anyhow be aware that the road to Rifugio Scoiattoli is open to private cars only before 9 a.m. and after 16 p.m.

When to Climb

Best months are June, July, August, September

Huts an other accomodation

- Rifugio Scoiattoli

- Rifugio Cinque Torri

Many kind of accomodation in Cortina and surrounding: hotel, b&b, apartments, huts, camping

Bibliography

“Arrampicare a Cortina d’Ampezzo e dintorni – Le vie più belle nelle Dolomiti” by Mauro Bernardi Ed. Athesia
“Dolomiti Orientali Vol. I – Parte I” by Antonio Berti - Collana Guide dei Monti d’Italia, CAI TCI

TABACCO N. 03 - Dolomiti Ampezzane 1:25000

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