Torre Barancio m 2307
The Cinque Torri ( Five Towers) area is a wonderful grouping of small towers - seeming to be only five when seen from the Ampezzo basin, but actually more than five - belonging to the Averau-Nuvolau group, located between the Croda da Lago mountains to the East and the impressive South face of the Tofana di Rozes to the West. The area offers a multitude of easy sport climbs as well as many classic multipitch trad routes, getting to the airy summits of the towers, from 40 to 170 meters of length.
An excellent group of towers showing the shape of stunning narrow pinnacles is the small tryad Lusy – Barancio – Romana. The set of the three towers is also named Terza Torre (Third Tower). Torre Barancio is located very close to Torre Lusy, between this latter and Torre Romana. On its narrow North face runs a direct line on excellent grey “dolomia”, a steep climb on a compact wall surrounded by a surprising environment. A beautiful solution for a short climbing day or in case of undoubted weather.
Three possibilities ( the starting point of the three different possible approachs to Cinque Torri is the road Cortina – Falzarego) :
- by the Cinque Torri chair lift to Rifugio Scoiattoli 2255 m. The chair-lift station is situated along the main Falzarego road 3 km east of Passo Falzarego (in the direction of Cortina)
- by foot to Rifugio Scoiattoli m. 2255 along the path rising from the chair-lift station
- by car to Rifugio Cinque Torri 2137 m. A narrow paved road starts in locality Cianzopè, on the Passo Falzarego road at km 112,200 and leads in a small parking lot near the refuge
From Rifugio Scoiattoli take the trail leading towards Torre Grande Cima Ovest. Before you come too close to the towers, turn on your left and go down on a trail crossing the meadows, then enter a kind of valley surrounded by the various towers and covered with gravels and boulders. Pass a cave below Torre Quarta and from here in 1 minutes you reach the start of the route, in the left part of the narrow face of Torre Barancio
From Rifugio Cinque Torri follow the good path starting here and climb up, then ignore the branch rising towards Torre Grande and take on the right the horizontal path getting briefly below Torre Lusy and Torre Barancio
An exposed classic route up the middle of Torre Barancio North face, a steep wall of excellent grey “dolomia”. The climbing is enjoiable and interesting throughout
L1 - Climb directly to the niche, reach it , exit right and make a rising traverse left then back right to a ledge. Fixed anchors. IV, IV+, m. 30
L2 – An enjoiable pitch. Slanting left about 5 meters to reach two cracks. Climb the right-hand of these (crux, 10 meters), overcome a bulge at half-height, then continue to the large ledge formed by the horizontal break in the face. Gain a good ledge. Fixed anchors. IV, IV+
L3 – Up in the middle of the wall; at first climb rightwards, then directly, then heading slightly to left. Fixed anchors. IV, III, 18 m.
L4 – Up slightly slanting left on beautiful carved rock to a notch on the ridge Fixed anchors. III, IV-, 33 m.
L5 – Climb up with steep climbing the little overhang on the ridge directly above the ledge, then along left side of the ridge to the summit. Belay on fixed anchors. IV, IV-, 33 m.
Descent: two spectacular abseils (25 m. + 25 m.) or, alternatively, a unique 50 m. abseil along the South Face (facing to Torre Grande).
Dolomiti Orientali Vol. I Parte I by Antonio Berti - Collana Guide dei Monti d'Italia, CAI TCI
Arrampicare a Cortina d'Ampezzo e dintorni- Le vie più belle nelle Dolomiti by Mauro Bernardi Ed. Athesia
IV grado in Dolomiti by Emiliano Zorzi - Ed. Idea Montagna