Torre Barancio

Page Type
Mountain/Rock
Location:
Belluno, Italy, Europe
County:
Veneto
Activities:
Trad Climbing
Season:
Summer
Elevation:
7569 ft / 2307 m
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Torre Barancio
Created On: Sep 3, 2014
Last Edited On: Sep 2, 2018

Overview

Geographical classification: Eastern Alps > Dolomites > Cinque Torri Group > Torre Barancio


Torre Barancio m 2307

The Cinque Torri ( Five Towers) area is a wonderful grouping of small towers - seeming to be only five when seen from the Ampezzo basin, but actually more than five - belonging to the Averau-Nuvolau group, located between the Croda da Lago mountains to the East and the impressive South face of the Tofana di Rozes to the West. The area offers a multitude of easy sport climbs as well as many classic multipitch trad routes, getting to the airy summits of the towers, from 40 to 170 meters of length. 


An excellent group of towers showing the shape of stunning narrow pinnacles is the small tryad Lusy – Barancio – Romana.
Torre Barancio is located very close to Torre Lusy, between this latter and Torre Romana. On its narrow North face runs a direct line on excellent grey “dolomia”, a steep climb on a compact wall surrounded by a surprising environment. A beautiful solution for a short climbing day or in case of undoubted weather.

Cinque Torri, Cortina Dolomites
Approaching from Rifugio Cinque Torri



Getting There

The closest town is Cortina d’Ampezzo. The starting point of the various approachs is the road Cortina – Falzarego

Road access to Cortina d’Ampezzo

- From Belluno: follow the road SS 51 towards North, pass Longarone and reach Pieve di Cadore; take the SS51 turns to left in Pieve di Cadore, getting San Vito di Cadore and Cortina d’Ampezzo. From Cortina follow the road SS48 to Passo Falzarego. After 3 km., in Pocol leave the main SS48 and turn to left (signpost Passo Giau) following the road to Passo Giau.

- From Trento or Bolzano: take the Brennero Motorway, exit Ponte Gardena and then follow the Val Gardena road to Selva di Val Gardena and Passo Gardena, reaching Corvara and La Villa. Turn to right towards Passo Falzarego, get the pass and here descent towards left along the road SS48 towards Cortina d’Ampezzo as far as the Cinque Torri chair-lift station (about 3 km East to the Falzarego Pass) and the starting point of the path to Cinque Torri.

High and Low Torre Quarta

Torri Quarta Alta e Bassa da Torre Barancio

Torre Barancio and Torre Romana

Torre Barancio and Torre Romana




Approachs to Cinque Torri

Three possibilities:

- by the Cinque Torri chair lift to Rifugio Scoiattoli m. 2255
The chair-lift station is situated along the main Falzarego road 3 km east of Falzarego Pass
- by foot along the path rising from the chair-lift station to Rifugio Scoiattoli m. 2255
- by car to Rifugio Cinque Torri m. 2137

Via Dibona-Apollonio report

Via Dibona-Apollonio report

Summit altitude: m. 2307
Difficulty: UIAA IV+
Equipment: pegs, natural , equipped belays
Climbing length: 120 m.
Exposure: North
First ascent: Ignazio Dibona, P. Apollonio e F. Stefani 1934, September 7th


An exposed classic route up the middle of Torre Barancio North face, a steep wall of excellent grey “dolomia”. The climbing is enjoiable and interesting throughout

L1 - Climb directly to the niche, reach it , exit right and make a rising traverse left then back right to a ledge. Fixed anchors. IV, IV+, m. 30
L2 – An enjoiable pitch. Slanting left about 5 meters to reach two cracks. Climb the right-hand of these (crux, 10 meters), overcome a bulge at half-height, then continue to the large ledge formed by the horizontal break in the face. Gain a good ledge. Fixed anchors. IV, IV+

Beta of Dibona, Torre Barancio

Via Dibona beta

Torre Grande stunning North wall from Barancio abseils

Torre Grande stunning North wall from Barancio abseils

L3 – Up in the middle of the wall; at first climb rightwards, then directly, then heading slightly to left. Fixed anchors. IV, III, 18 m.
L4 – Up slightly slanting left on beautiful carved rock to a notch on the ridge Fixed anchors. III, IV-, 33 m.
L5 – Climb up with steep climbing the little overhang on the ridge directly above the ledge, then along left side of the ridge to the summit. Belay on fixed anchors. IV, IV-, 33 m.

Descent: two spectacular abseils (25 m. + 25 m.) or, alternatively, a unique 50 m. abseil along the South Face (facing to Torre Grande).

Essential gear

Rope 2x50 m, helmet, nuts 4-9, friends 1,2,3, some quickdraws

Red Tape

No particulary restrictions in climbing and hiking.
Be aware that cars on the road to Rifugio Cinque Torri are not allowed between 9 a.m. to 16 p.m. during the summer months.

Huts

 
Cinque Torri plan


- Rifugio Scoiattoli m. 2255, private

Situation: in front of Cinque Torri West side, at 5 minutes by walking
Open: 20 of June – 20 of September
Size: 20 persons
Getting There: by chair-lift from Falzarego road
Hut's phone : 0039-3338146960

- Rifugio Cinque Torri m 2125, private

Situation: in front of Cinque Torri South side, at 10 minutes by walking
Open: 20 of June – 20 of September
Size: 20 persons
Getting There: driving by a road starting from Falzarego road
Hut's phone : 0039-04362902

When to Climb

Best season goes from the end of May to the end of September

Meteo

ARPAV DOLOMITI METEO

DOLOMITI METEO - VENETO

ARPAV DOLOMITI METEO Phone +390436780007 fax +390436780008
CENTRO VALANGHE DI ARABBA Phone +390436755711 fax 043679319 e-mail cva@arpa.veneto.it

Guidebooks and maps

 
Cinque Torri (Five Towers) map


 
Dolomiti Guidebook

 
Dolomiti Orientali Guidebook



-Guidebooks

“Dolomiti Orientali Vol. I – Parte I” by Antonio Berti - Collana Guide dei Monti d’Italia, CAI TCI

“Arrampicare a Cortina d’Ampezzo e dintorni – Le vie più belle nelle Dolomiti” by Mauro Bernardi Ed. Athesia

“IV grado in Dolomiti” by Emiliano Zorzi - Ed. Idea Montagna


- Maps

Tabacco 03 – Dolomiti Ampezzane 1:25.000
Compass - 1:50.000






Torre Barancio

Mountain/Rock
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Geography

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Parents

Cinque Torri GroupMountains & Rocks