Torre Barancio m 2307
The Cinque Torri ( Five Towers) area is a wonderful grouping of small towers - seeming to be only five when seen from the Ampezzo basin, but actually more than five - belonging to the Averau-Nuvolau group, located between the Croda da Lago mountains to the East and the impressive South face of the Tofana di Rozes to the West. The area offers a multitude of easy sport climbs as well as many classic multipitch trad routes, getting to the airy summits of the towers, from 40 to 170 meters of length.
An excellent group of towers showing the shape of stunning narrow pinnacles is the small tryad Lusy – Barancio – Romana.
Torre Barancio is located very close to Torre Lusy, between this latter and Torre Romana. On its narrow North face runs a direct line on excellent grey “dolomia”, a steep climb on a compact wall surrounded by a surprising environment. A beautiful solution for a short climbing day or in case of undoubted weather.
Approachs to Cinque Torri
- by the Cinque Torri chair lift to Rifugio Scoiattoli m. 2255
The chair-lift station is situated along the main Falzarego road 3 km east of Falzarego Pass
- by foot along the path rising from the chair-lift station to Rifugio Scoiattoli m. 2255
- by car to Rifugio Cinque Torri m. 2137
An exposed classic route up the middle of Torre Barancio North face, a steep wall of excellent grey “dolomia”. The climbing is enjoiable and interesting throughout
L1 - Climb directly to the niche, reach it , exit right and make a rising traverse left then back right to a ledge. Fixed anchors. IV, IV+, m. 30
L2 – An enjoiable pitch. Slanting left about 5 meters to reach two cracks. Climb the right-hand of these (crux, 10 meters), overcome a bulge at half-height, then continue to the large ledge formed by the horizontal break in the face. Gain a good ledge. Fixed anchors. IV, IV+
L3 – Up in the middle of the wall; at first climb rightwards, then directly, then heading slightly to left. Fixed anchors. IV, III, 18 m.
L4 – Up slightly slanting left on beautiful carved rock to a notch on the ridge Fixed anchors. III, IV-, 33 m.
L5 – Climb up with steep climbing the little overhang on the ridge directly above the ledge, then along left side of the ridge to the summit. Belay on fixed anchors. IV, IV-, 33 m.
Descent: two spectacular abseils (25 m. + 25 m.) or, alternatively, a unique 50 m. abseil along the South Face (facing to Torre Grande).