Traumpfeiler is the ultimate ''must'', between all Meteora classics. It's not the hardest or the longest route in Meteora, it's just one of the most beautyfull. Everybody who visit Meteora must climb this route, otherwise he cannot take the real taste of the climbing in this place.
Traumpfeiler has everything, runout slabs, offwidth, cracks, dihedral and some of the best views in Meteora. Most of the good days has at least one party climbing the route, and it's not unusual to have 4 or 5 parties in the same day. Even though it's just a UIAA V+, it is a serious route and nobody should underestimate this. Traumpfeiler (german) means ''Pillar of Dreams'' (english) and ''Pilie ton Oniron''(greek) and is the N-NE pillar of the Rock Heiliger Geist/Holy Ghost/Agio Pnevma (Ge/En/Gr).
The route's FA was done by Heinz Lothar Stutte and Helmut Magdefrau in 21.4.1981.
For getting to Meteora, check the Meteora
Once in Kastraki village you can walk from the square to the base of the route in 15 minutes.It's better to park your car at Kastraki square. The abseil of Heiliger Geist is on the S-SW side of the Rock and a trail leads you back to the square. So when you finish the whole climbing you can enjoy your beers at the cafe, instead of going to take your car near the base of the route.
Panoramic view of Meteora.
The route starts on the right side of the left pillar. The right pillar is the most serious and seldom visited route Heiliger Geist/Holy Ghost/Agio Pnevma. Between the two pillars exists a cave with ruins of old hermits' place. Unfortunatelly this classic route is affected by the nearby routes' bolting (6th and 9th pitch). That changes a little its character, but not its beauty.
Climb straight up (III+) a little right of the first ring (it's 8-10m high) to narrow ''ledge'', then traverse left, clip the first ring, continue left for some meters to big stone, then up to the second ring (V+). Climb leftward to the ''ridge line''. Belay on the two rings. First pitch is 35m and has 3 bolts.
Climb straight up (V) to ''ledge'', traverse right to the second belay, two rings. 35m, 3 bolts.
Delicate slab climbing (V+ and 2 bolts) slightly to the right, that leads to groove/chimney (IV+). Belay on two rings, 20m. Guidebook gives 2 bolts, but now has another one in the chimney.
Lefthand offwidth (V), which becomes easier dihedral as you go higher. This pitch needs some trad protection. Belay on two rings. 15m, guidebook gives no bolt, but now has one in the middle. Takes medium-large nuts and medium cams (like 0.75 to 2 Camalots).
You can climb pitches 3 and 4 together.
Nice face climbing to the left, with big holds (V). Belay on two rings, 15m, pitch has 2 bolts.
Climb the slab (V-) with the small crack. Belay on two rings. 15m, guidebook gives use of trad protection, but now has 2 bolts on the right by a route that passes near.
Avoid climbing pitches 5 and 6 together, communication problems
Easy slab (IV-) for 40m, 3 bolts.
Climb up (III+) to the belay ring of Heiliger Geist route, traverse right on the ledge to groove with 1 more bolt. Becarefull of the rope friction. Belay on the big ledge. Two bolts on the ledge
. 35m, 2 bolts. Enjoy the view.
Traverse left (1 ring by nearby route), to dihedral/crack (V+ with 1 bolt), then slab (V-, one more bolt) to the end of the route. Belay on two rings. Expect communication problems
, so be prepared. 40m, guidebook gives 2, but actually are 3 bolts.
Walk all the way to the summit, log on the summitbook and continue to the village's direction (S-SW). There are stonepiles inticating the rappel position.
Make a sort (10-12m) rappel. Make 2x40m
rappels to the ground. The rappel route is ''Weg des wassers'' (Route of Water).
Something very important
for abseiling in Meteora is the way of putting the knot through the 'horizontal'
rings. You have to put the rope with the knot (the rope for the pull) on the downside of the ring (between the ring and the rock). Otherwise maybe there is a problem, because the pulling rope is blocking the other rope, pressing it with the ring to the rock.
With the last rappel you are on the Agio Pnevma small church, right of the church is a trail that leads to the village in 10 minutes.
The time for the whole route and the descent is 4:00 to 7:00
for the most parties.
For this route you need: 2x50m half/twin ropes, helmet, personal gear (harness, lockers, belay/rappel device, climbing shoes), slings and 7-10 quickdraws (depanding if you plan to climb pitches together or not), some medium/large nuts, 2 medium cams or hexes.
Nice Meteora photos on www.on-sight.de
Panoramic view from routes' 8th belay station.
Article for Meteora by www.intoadventure.com
in Rock'n'Ice (Mar/Apr '96) and AlpiRando (Sep '96)