Keyhole Ridge

Approach

NOTE: THIS IS NOT THE REGULAR KEYHOLE ROUTE, THIS IS A TECHNICAL CLIMB!!! Follow the crowds through the boulderfield towards the Keyhole, but right before you get there look for a second/third class ramp that starts below the stone hut, below and to the left of the Keyhole.

Route Description

I have seen many different descriptions of this route and they all seem to differ. We saw two other parties on the route and they both took slightly different paths. This is what we did. Follow the ramp up until it starts getting thin, and then head straight up to a notch on fourth to easy fifth class rock. There is a wood sign there stating that this is NOT the Keyhole, but it was pretty weathered so I’m not sure it will be there in the future. We roped up on top of the ridge. Follow the ridge towards the summit, to the first tower and climb it on the right side. The line we took was probably 5.6-7, but is probably easier further to the right. From the top of the tower, drop down a little ways to a ledge system on the right. We followed this for two pitches and then headed up on some slabs for another pitch. This puts you in another notch. Before this point you are above the regular Keyhole route and could bail if you had to. After this point you are pretty committed. Continue on the left side of the ridge on a really cool, really exposed ledge without gaining much elevation. Hardest part of this section is probably 5.4. Look for a crack and flake system heading straight up. We did this in one long 5.5 pitch. On top of the ridge again, traverse along the ridge for another short pitch on the left side. Not far after this, we unroped and headed towards the summit on fourth class rock. We came down the regular Keyhole route.

Essential Gear

Rope. Standard rack, nuts were easy to place and cams came in handy, especially on the last pitch. Plenty of shoulder length slings.

Miscellaneous Info

Simul-climbing will make things move much faster on all but the first and last pitches. Look out for loose rock!!!

Images

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