The Voie des Savoyardes is a very interesting, classic rock climbing route situated on one of the most remarkable peaks of the Oisans: Aiguille Dibona. Contrary to most routes on the Dibona, this route is not bolted and has remained its original, alpine character. The line follows the 'weak spots' in the south face like cracks, fissures and diedres. Aspiring climbers should have a steady climbing level and have to be familiar with the use of nuts and friends. The route has a adventurous character and will hopefully offer some very good climbing memories. Especially the traverse under the big roof is quite memorable and offers a spectacular view downwards.
Just 5 minutes from the Soreiller hut. The Voie des Savoyardes is on the south face, on the left side from classics like the Madier.
The route is described in this book
The first part of the line is very well visible from the hut. Climb two pitches of fissures and then trend diagonally to the right. The difficulties start here. Climb a V+/VI pitch and then make the steep, impressive traverse (V+/VI, hard) under the big roof. There are several pegs in this traverse, but the footsteps are small and the aid of the quickdraws could be tempting:-). After that, continue via two remarkable IV+ pitches in a nice chimney (something like the Cassin route on the Badile).
Then follow for a couple of pitches the easy couloir which goes slightly to the left. A this point you have to study the topo very carefully. There are a couple of belays on a horizontal ledge and for the original length you shouldn't take the first pitons (like we did), but one or two further. Then climb directly to the summit. Alternatively, it's also possible to exit on the right side to the summit following the main ridge, where you can find several bolts.
Take the normal way
down. Rappel and downclimb II-graded rock to a small pass. From there go to the left into the snow (present in the beginning of july 2006) and follow the trail or your sense of direction back to the Soreiller hut. Crampons and a ice axe were not necessary.The use of approach shoes will definitely cause wet feet, but it will probably do if you have a good mountain walking technique. Rappeling down the southface is possible, however it's often not appreciated when there are many climbers on their way up.
Harness, 10 quickdraws, helmet, 50m double rope, slinges, 5-6 cams, nuts, min 1l water p.p. Pegs are not necessary.
. Pictures will be added later.