West Point Crack (5.7)

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 38.87780°N / 104.88°W
Additional Information Route Type: Trad Climbing
Seasons Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
Additional Information Time Required: Less than two hours
Additional Information Difficulty: 5.7
Additional Information Rock Difficulty: 5.7 (YDS)
Additional Information Number of Pitches: 2
Additional Information Grade: I
Sign the Climber's Log


This is one of the classics of the Garden of the Gods. Named after my alma mater, West Point, this route was put up by US Army climbers in the 1940s from nearby Fort Carson. The first free ascent was done by Harvey Carter in the 50s.

This route is on the West Face of South Gateway Rock. On the face, locate the large, leaning tower of rock. West Point Crack follows the crack system on the south side of it. The route begins on the left side of a large pothole (cave).

Route Description

3 pitches.

P1: Climb a steep face past three fixed pitons. Ends on a ledge with a double anchor.

P2: Go past two pins to a chimney. Stem the chimney to a piton belay on top of a pillar.

P3: Step right off the pillar to the face and climb past 2 pins to the top.

Descend by rapping off the top of the pillar.

Essential Gear

Medium to large cams, slings, and quickdraws. Rap with two 60m ropes. 50m ropes are too short, and will leave you off the deck.