West and north-west of Abak viewed from Koolon Bastak(4156m)'s south route. [by]
The pink mountain is east wall of Abak, viewed from the 3962m peak of Jahneston Peaks
Abak stands as a single peak rising up north to Fasham city, east to Routeh village, south west to Shemshak village and ski resort and south to the KooloonBastak - Sarakchal ridge line, the whole south face is limited by Shemshak road and Zayegan road.
Unlike the other nearby peaks, Abak doesn't really connect to the other peaks of Central Alborz mountains by a ridge and it is free from all sides.
The most exciting view on Shemshak road is Abak, specially at winter, it looks as a single cone rocky at the top and much higher than what it actually is. The whole south and west faces of Abak can be seen from this road.
The east and west slopes of Abak are rough and made of rocky towers, note that the most rough and serious part of the Shemshak road that goes between the mighty rocks is the base of the west face
Anyway Abak is like a small bump that is surrounded by some tall peaks of Central Alborz, so it's rarely the choice of the climbers, but climbing the east face is a good challenge, for example looking down to Abak from Koloon Bastak(4165m)summit really proves how low it is and it's nothing but a small bump.
The summit gives a good panorama of Lavasan'smountains (Mehrchal[3912m], PirzanKaloom[3842m], Hamhen[3590m]...) looking south, the best view of Sarakchal(4210) peaks looking north and Tochal(3964m) looking far south.
The rough East and West face
This underrated mountain has a great virgin nature at east, at the end of Routeh village the east face shows up, the east face is formed by steep boulders and walls, there is no obvious routes to climb, the rocks are stable but the outer sediment layer is prickly badly scratches the hands while scrambling and even makes it hard to sit on such a piece of rock.
you can climb on the boulders and find ways to scramble to the top, but this way of climbing may become serious because sometimes you will have a vertical piece in front of you and you may have to do some technical rock climbing.
I have no idea about the height of the vertical walls, to my senses I think the higher ones are about 100m~300m tall.
Descending on the very steep boulders takes much more time and effort than the climb.
You should spend half a day to climb and descend this face in summer.
This place seems unreachable covered by heavy snow at winter, the boulder slopes have a great potential to serve fatal avalanches. [See nader's perfect shot of the east face]
On the other side of the narrow Routeh valley there is a mountain called Routeh(3182m) similar and parallel to Abak east. It seems that Abak has been compact to that mountain but a knife has torn these two apart making the Routeh valley, Abak and Routeh peak. [See Routeh(3182m)]
I have no idea about climbing the west towers!
but it seems there is a mixed hard-scrambling and walk-up long west ridge line to the summit.
About Iran and Shemshak/Dizin area
Shemshak and Darbandsar villages
[I added this section to give a small glance to people who want to travel to Iran, also as Abak is located at one of the major skiing zones of Iran, I have added some gathered in formations about the ski resorts around Abak.]
Iran is high plane hosting two vast ranges of mountains Alborz and Zagros including hundreds of 4000+m summits. Even taught there are two big deserts in the middle of Iran still it's been said 3/4 of the plane is covered by mountains, there are still lots of 4000+m and 3000+m outside the Alborz and Zagros ranges scattered all over the Iran plane like Kerman mountains and Taftan volcano, the weather varies from dry hot to mountain conditions and to the thick green lush and humidity of the north Caspian sea coast.
The behavior of Iranians is friendly and they are helpful to foreign people from Europe and America (this friendly behaves may no be applied to Arabs), you can quickly make a friend who would be glad to guide you and stay beside you and invite you to his/her home.
The pipe-supplied and mineral water and food served in restaurants and supplied from stores is safe (avoid food from road sellers in downtown).
Security is granted by the police, there are two kind of polices in Iran the green ones and the blue ones, blue is only for traffic control, greens are for security and criminal matters.
Alcoholic drinks are forbidden in Iran, Christians won't be punished for carrying, anyway most people use drinks in their house and parties illegally and they have their own illegal alcohol suppliers who supply drinks from Iranian native drinks to Russian and western drinks, if you needed drinks you can easily find it illegally.
In many reviews Shemshak and Dizin resorts have been quoted by people around the world as one of the best ski resorts in the world.
Shemshak ski area: [Reviews] Shemshak ski area is located at a distance of 57 kilometers north-east of Tehran. It came into operation in 1958. It includes two ski lift, three dish teleskis and two Hammer teleskis. Shemshak ski area, being next in rank to Dizin ski complex, was granted an International title in 1996 soon after some corrections made in slopes and snow tracks. Amenity and recreational facilities such as two hotels, 4 restaurants were provided to receive sport lovers. The highest point of the field is 3050m, while The lowest point is 2550m above the sea level.
The length of ski season at Shemshak is variable from (Nov. 22-April 4). Shemshak in summer is the most favorable resort for recreation and sport. Fresh and delicate weather as well as closeness of the region to the greater Tehran has attracted many foreign and home tourists. Besides, in winter nights, the ski area is lit by powerful amber lights to provide a very interesting and spectacular scene so that the skiers can ski till midnight
At present, Shemshak ski area is administered by Iran Ski Federation.
Darbandsar Ski Area: The most recent ski area came to operation as a private company in 1982 with the co-operation of forerunners in ski and lovers of ski sport. The area itself is located at Darbandsar village 60 kilometers north east of Tehran. In lifting facilities include a ski lift, two Hammer teleskis. The lowest point of the field is 2600m and its highest point is 3050m above the sea level.
Skiing time beings from (Dec.6-April2O).At this skiing season a great number of ski lovers attend the field. Since areas such as Maygoon, Zagoon, Shemshak, Darbandsar, Fasham, Oushan and etc... lie at Rundbare-Ghasran region, the whole region enjoys a unique and beautiful picturesque nature with varied climate. In the north of Darbandsar, there lies a valley named Taltangeh which is open to skiers in (June22-July22).
Dizin Ski Area: [Reviews]
The Dizin ski complex is the first ski and winter sport resort in Iran which has been officially recognized and granted the title by the International Ski Federation for its capability in administrating official and international competitions.
It gained its official title for its specific physical and technical features such as the course slope, length of the course and the place where the competitions and races are to be held, as well as amenities and other recreational facilities.
Dizin is situated on the north mountains of Tehran at Gajereh region, where its distance from Chaloos road is 123 kilometers, and by Shemshak is 71 kilometers.
The installation of ski-lifts at Dizin dates back to 1348 (1969) which include three telecabins, two skiliffs, seven dish teleskis and one Hammer teleski, the lowest point of the region is 2650 in, while its highest point is 3600m, above the sea level.
Dizin climatologically condition offers the longest time for skiing, normally begins in (22 N0V. -22 MAY) Because of the expansion of the region. Dizin ski amenities included two hotels, 19 cottages and 5 restaurants, The ski activity in Dizin complex is not confined to winter season.
In 1372 (1993) taking the viewpoints of the International Ski Federation into consideration, and with regard to the co-operation of the concerned experts in this field, the cornerstone of Grasski was laid down after a year endeavor, it was opened to public in 1994.
In 1375 (1996) the first international Grasski tournament was held at Dizin in which some famous countries participated, The International Ski Federation representatives while expressing their agreement that these possibilities are suitable and comply with international standards, agreed that the grass ski contests be held in
From Tehran drive Sadr and Babaee freeways -> turn right into Lashgarak road -> drive to Fasham -> take the right branch (flagged as Zayegan...) -> turn north into Routeh village road bypass the village and go to the end of the trail until you get into a narrow valley, the left steep slopes are Abbak's east face. (about 70Km / 1 hour driving)
Note that the last parts of the trail requires a 4WD car.
From Tehran drive Sadr and Babaee freeways -> turn right into Lashgarak road -> drive to Fasham -> take the left branch and reach Shemshak village (about 70Km / 1 hour driving) -> walk up the the Shemshak ski resort, then you can step into the north-west route to Abbak.
Red Tapes and Regional Hints
The whole Alborz mountains area and it's wild nature is a protected place, hunting, fishing and abusing the nature is prohibited
No fees of permission is required for climbing or camping
When To Climb
Spring and autumn.
Better climb when the sky is cloudy or start your climb 4~5 am.
Heavy snow covers the area, I think skiing is a better choice.