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Amphetamine Grip

Amphetamine Grip


Page Type: Route

Object Title: Amphetamine Grip

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.7 (YDS)

Difficulty: R

Number of Pitches: 3

Grade: II

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes


Page By: corvallis

Created/Edited: Mar 27, 2008 / Mar 27, 2008

Object ID: 391654

Hits: 2545 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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A classic alternative to Super Slab, "The Grip" shares the same 1st pitch of Super Slab then goes straight up for some great climbing with some good run outs.

FA: Steve Strauch & Danny Gates 1971

Getting There

Follow directions to Super Slab. Amphetamine Grip shares the first pitch.

Route Description

P1 - 5.5 - 100ft - Follow the first pitch of Super Slab to a belay on the huge ledge with double bolts.

P2 - 5.7 - 100ft - Scramble up easy rock to the left facing arching corner that forms the left side of a large feature. Climb the crack wich arches to the left then gain a small ledge with an old fixed piton. Set a belay with small aliens and nuts. Or set a belay a little lower with large cams.

P3 - 5.7R - 90ft - Head straight up off the belay on run out terrain there is a possible flake to sling, climb up a little more to where you can get a cam then mak a leftward traverse towards a blank white corner after the traverse plug some cams in the solid pod and run it out the the belay wich is 2 solid glue-ins atop the white corner.

Essential Gear

Cams to 3"

External Links

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