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Aphrodite
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Aphrodite

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Aphrodite

Page Type: Route

Lat/Lon: 56.79980°N / 5.01062°W

Object Title: Aphrodite

Route Type: Mixed

Season: Winter

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: Scottish IV,4

Route Quality: 
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Page By: BigLee

Created/Edited: Apr 27, 2009 / Apr 28, 2009

Object ID: 509270

Hits: 2916 

Page Score: 86.37%  - 22 Votes 

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Overview

 
Ben Nevis s No.3 Gully Buttress
No.3 Gully Buttress

Aphrodite is one of the best mixed climbs on No.3 Gully Buttress in Ben Nevis’s Coire Na Ciste. It’s rated Scottish IV,4 but is generally considered to be a hard IV. It’s a bit of a wondering route. The lower pitches largely involve a traverse from right to left in order to gain an icy groove which is then climbed to the right of Green Gully. This icy groove leads to an arête which is climbed to the top of the route. The route totals 200m.

Getting There

To reach the route you first need to park your car in the North Side of Ben Nevis car park. This is located a short distance North-West of Fort William and can be reached on foot with extra time.

Next, walk for around 90 minutes (give or take depending on snow conditions) to the CIC hut beneath the North side of Ben Nevis. The trail initially climbs though a lovely pine forest, reaching an upper car park in around 20-30 minutes. A number of years ago, the upper car park was reached by way of a steep and terribly eroded, often muddy, path but fortunately things have improved.

From the upper car park, climb over the style and follow the trail along the Allt a’Mhuilinn stream south-west to the CIC hut. The CIC hut is largely invisible until within close proximity of it. From the hut take in the wonderful views of Coire Na Ciste.

To reach No.3 Buttress head in the direction of No.3 Gully located at top of Coire Na Ciste. Aphrodite climbs to the right of Green Gully however the route begins higher further right of this and traverses in right to left.
 
Hike to Ben Nevis s North Side upper car park
Hike to the upper car park
 
Approaching the North side of Ben Nevis
Approaching the North side
 
Coire Na Ciste from the CIC Hut beneath Ben Nevis s North Side
Coire na Ciste: No.3 Gully Buttress is centre-left

Route Description

Unfortunately I didn’t take many photos as was concentrating on trying to complete the route. The route is shown below:
Aphrodite (Scottish IV,4)
Aphrodite (IV,4) on No.3 Gully Guttress

 
Looking up the Aphrodite route on Ben Nevis s
Looking up the route from its base

The route begins at a point approximately midway along the No.3 Gully Buttress. Climb the snow slopes at the point where the slopes penetrate to the highest point on the buttress. Bearing right would take you towards the No. 3 Gully Buttress Original route (Scottish III). Instead climb a short icy gully (approximately 3m in length) directly ahead that cuts through a short band of rock and then aim for the second snow ledge halfway up the face and at the top of the slopes.

From here belay and begin the traverse left a long way until a short distance from Green Gully. At the end of the traverse, descend a short distance to gain an icy groove further left. This decent is particularly tricky.

Climb the groove which is beside a rib immediately right of Green Gully. The groove offers the best climbing on the route with the upper half marking the crux with sustained delicate footholds and hooks but good protection if you can find it.

Belay at the top of the groove from where there are good views into neighboring Green Gully. Continue to climb arête to the right of Green Gully. Alternatively you can always break off the Aphrodite route and enter Green Gully (IV,4) although the top pitches are straightforward for the grade.

Decent

 
No.4 Gully descending Ben Nevis s North Side
No.4 Gully & Trident Buttress

No.4 Gully is the obvious decent route. This easy snow gully offers a straight-forward descent to the CIC hut to the north in good visibility. The top of the gully has a metal marker post with the number 4 drilled into it (GR 158717 – GPS NN15821 71733). Sometimes the cornice can be a problem necessitating an initial snow bollard abseil but usually there is a section of cornice dug out from below. Also, it is possible at times to move a few metres to the north, along the rim and gain access to the gully down steeper ground. Avalanches have occurred in this gully and the initial entry can be steep, but it soon eases.

Essential Gear

Bring plenty of nuts and some hexes as you will place these most.

Bring plenty of slings and extendible quickdraws for the traverse to avoid rope drag

An angled peg or two is also very handy. It’s quite likely that that the peg I smashed in at the crux is still there! Bear in mind that smashing pegs into Scottish rock is generally considered unethical by local Scottish rules so don’t use them unless you absolutely have to.

Ice screws aren’t much use accept on the very lower section of the route

External Links

West Coast Mountain Guides Avalanche information, climbing conditions and weather forecasts.

Abacus Mountaineering Climbing conditions

The Scottish avalanche information service (SAIS)

Mountain weather information servise (MWIS) weather forecast

Metcheck 7 day weather forecast

Images

Ben Nevis\'s No.3 Gully ButtressClimbers on the upper half of No.3 Gully Buttress Original Route on Ben NevisCoire Na Ciste from the CIC Hut beneath Ben Nevis\'s North SideAphrodite (Scottish IV,4)No.4 Gully descending Ben Nevis\'s North SideLooking up the Aphrodite route on Ben Nevis\'s