| The famous 4000m in the Aosta Valley and the normal route or no Area/Range |
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| The famous 4000m in the Aosta Valley and the normal route or no   | 
| Page Type: Area/Range Location: Aosta Valley/France/Suisse, Italy, Europe Lat/Lon: 45.73494°N / 7.31140°E Activities: Mountaineering | Page By: Antonio Giani Created/Edited: Jul 31, 2009 / Oct 5, 2009 Object ID: 535316 Hits: 1276 Loading... Page Score: 89.66% - 28 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
OverviewThe Aosta Valley (Italy) is one of the most famous and beautiful mountainous countries in the world. It holds many impressive mountains like Monte Bianco, Monte Rosa, Monte Cervino (Matterhorn) and Gran Paradiso. But there are also many 4000meter peaks which are well known all over the world: For example the Dente del Gigante, Grandes Jorasses, Breithorn, Roc, Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey and Lyskamm.Cogne and Valsavarenche Valley (Gran Paradiso)☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺
GRAN PARADISO 4061m
First ascent: P. G. Frassy and Eliseo Jeantet, (Sep 15th, 1869).
Difficulty: F+/PD-.
Difference in height: About 2200m.
Refuge: Rifugio Federico Chabod (2750m). Places when open: 40. Winter hut: 16 places. Vittorio Emanuele II, (2732m). Places when open: 140. Winter hut: 21 places.
Ascent time: 8,00-9,00 hours.
Descent: Along the ascent route.
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.
IL ROC 4026m
First ascent: C. Cookson, F. Truffer and L. Jeantet, (Aug 22th, 1894).
Difficulty: AD+.
Difference in height: About 2360m.
Refuge: Bivacchi fissi Carlo Pol (3183m), 6 places, and M. Gérard - E. Grappein (3200m), 9 places, located on the spur that divides the northern and southern branches of the Tribolazione Glacier.
Ascent time: 9,30-10,30 hours.
Descent: Along the ascent route.
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons. Veny and Ferret Valley (Monte Bianco)☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺
AIGUILLE DE BIONNASSAY 4052m
First ascent: E. N. Buxton, F. C. Grove, R. J. S. MacDonald, P. J. Cachat and M. Payot, (Jul 28th, 1865).
Difficulty: D.
Difference in height: About 1680m from le Nid d'Aigle.
Refuge: Refuge de Tête-Rousse (3167m). Places when open: 74. Winter hut: 16 places.
Ascent time: 6,00-7,00 hours.
Descent: Along the ascent route.
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.
PUNTA BARETTI 4006m
First ascent: Gian Carlo Grassi, Sergio Rossi and Angelo Siri, (Oct 30th, 1988).
Difficulty: TD+.
Difference in height: About 2350m from La Visaille Village.
Refuge: Rifugio Franco Monzino (2580m). Places when open: 60. Winter hut: 8 places. Bivacchi fissi Marco Crippa (3850m), 9 places, and Giuseppe Lampugnani (3860m), 6 places.
Ascent time: 7,30-8,30 hours.
Descent: From SW Slope (AD).
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, nuts, friends, ice axe, and crampons.
MONT BROUILLARD 4068m
First ascent: Martino Baretti and Jean Joseph Maquignaz, (Jul 28th, 1882).
Difficulty: AD+.
Difference in height: About 2410m from La Visaille Village.
Refuge: Rifugio Franco Monzino (2580m). Places when open: 60. Winter hut: 8 places. Bivacchi fissi Marco Crippa (3850m), 9 places, and Giuseppe Lampugnani (3860m), 6 places.
Ascent time: 8,30-9,00 hours.
Descent: From S ridge and SW slope (AD-).
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, nuts, friends, ice axe, and crampons.
PICCO LUIGI AMEDEO 4470m
First ascent: V. Bressoud, René Dittert, W. Marquart and Francis Marullaz, (Jul 28th, 1933).
Difficulty: D.
Difference in height: About 2810m from La Visaille Village.
Refuge: Rifugio Franco Monzino (2580m). Places when open: 60. Winter hut: 8 places. Bivacchi fissi Marco Crippa (3850m), 9 places, and Giuseppe Lampugnani (3860m), 6 places.
Ascent time: 11,00-13,00 hours.
Descent: From Monte Bianco.
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, nuts, friends, ice axe, and crampons.
MONTE BIANCO / MONT BLANC 4811m
First ascent: R. W. Head, Julien Grange, Adolphe Orset and Jean Marie Perrod, (Aug 13th, 1863).
Difficulty: PD/PD+.
Difference in height: About 1280m from Col du Midi.
Refuge: Refuge des Cosmiques (3613m). Places when open: 120.
Ascent time: 8,00-10,00 hours from Col du Midi.
Descent: Along the ascent route.
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.
AIGUILLE BLANCHE DE PEUTEREY 4112m
First ascent: Paul Güssfeldt, Emile Rey, Christian Klucker and César Ollier (Aug 15th, 1893).
Difficulty: AD+/D-.
Difference in height: About 2755m.
Refuge: Bivacco fisso dalla Brenva (3200m) 5 places.
Ascent time: 10,00-11,00 hours.
Descent: Along the ascent route.
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.
GRAND PILLIER D'ANGLE 4243m
First ascent: Walter Bonatti and Cosimo Zappelli, (Jun 22,23th, 1962).
Difficulty: ED.
Difference in height: About 870m from Ref. Torino.
Refuge: Rifugio Torino (3375m). Places when open: 190 places. Bivacco Alberico Borgna (3680m), 10 places.
Ascent time: 11,00-13,00 hours, from the base.
Descent: From Monte Bianco.
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, nuts, friends, ice axe, and crampons.
MONT MAUDIT 4465m
First ascent: P. Cassan, P. Kornacker and H. Kunn, (Jul 31th, 1901).
Difficulty: PD+.
Difference in height: About 1000m.
Refuge: Refuge des Cosmiques (3613m). Places when open: 120.
Ascent time: 4,30-5,00 hours.
Descent: Along the ascent route.
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.
DENTE DEL GIGANTE / DENT DU GÉANT 4013m
First ascent: Alessandro Sella, Alfonso Sella, Corradino Sella, Gaudenzio Sella, Jean Joseph Maquignaz, Battista Maquignaz and Daniele Maquignaz, (Jul 29th, 1882).
Difficulty: AD+/D-.
Difference in height: About 640m from Ref. Torino (3375m).
Refuge: Rifugio Torino (3375m). Places when open: 190 places.
Ascent time: 3,30-4,30 hours.
Descent: Along the ascent route.
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.
AIGUILLE DE ROCHEFORT 4001m
First ascent: Ettore Allegra, Laurent Croux, Pierre Dayné and Alexis Brocherel, (Jul 18th, 1900, in descent).
Difficulty: AD.
Difference in height: about 700m from Ref. Torino (3375m).
Refuge: Rifugio Torino (3375m). Places when open: 190 places.
Ascent time: 4,00-5,00 hours.
Descent: Along the ascent route.
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.
DÔME DE ROCHEFORT 4016m
First ascent: A. Piccioni and Luciano Pasi, (Sep *18-19th, 1971).
Difficulty: TD/ED.
Difference in height: About 2423m from Planpincieux.
Refuge: Rifugio Gabriele Boccalatte-Mario Piolti (2804m). Places when open: 25. Winter hut: 24 places.
Ascent time: *.
Descent: From normal route.
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, nuts, friends, ice axe, and crampons.
GRANDES JORASSES 4208m
First ascent: Horace Walker, Melchior Anderegg, Johann Jaun and Julien Grange (Jun 30th, 1868).
Difficulty: AD.
Difference in height: About 2615m from Planpincieux.
Refuge: Rifugio Gabriele Boccalatte-Mario Piolti (2804m). Places when open: 25. Winter hut: 24 places.
Ascent time: 10,00-10,30 hours.
Descent: Along the ascent route.
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, nuts, friends, ice axe, and crampons.
GRANDES JORASSES PUNTA WHYMPER 4184m
 First ascent: Edward Whymper, Michel Croz, Christian Almer and Franz Biner, (Jun 24th, 1865).
Difficulty: AD.
Difference in height: About 2591m from Planpincieux.
Refuge: Rifugio Gabriele Boccalatte-Mario Piolti (2804m). Places when open: 25. Winter hut: 25 places.
Ascent time: 8,00-9,00 hours.
Descent: Along the ascent route.
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, nuts, friends, ice axe, and crampons.
GRANDES JORASSES PUNTA CROZ 4108m
 First ascent: E. Hasenclever, W. Klemm, F. König and R. Weitzeboch, (Aug 24th, 1909).
Difficulty: AD+.
Difference in height: About 2515m from Planpincieux.
Refuge: Rifugio Gabriele Boccalatte-Mario Piolti (2804m). Places when open: 25. Winter hut: 25 places.
Ascent time: 6,30-7,30 hours.
Descent: From normal route.
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, nuts, friends, ice axe, and crampons.
GRANDES JORASSES PUNTA ELENA 4042m
 First ascent: Duca degli Abruzzi, Joseph Petigax, Laurent Croux and Felix Ollier, (Aug 22th, 1898).
Difficulty: AD+.
Difference in height: About 2449m from Planpincieux.
Refuge: Rifugio Gabriele Boccalatte-Mario Piolti (2804m). Places when open: 25. Winter hut: 25 places.
Ascent time: 6,00-7,00 hours.
Descent: From normal route.
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, nuts, friends, ice axe, and crampons.
GRANDES JORASSES PUNTA MARGHERITA 4065m
First ascent: Duca degli Abruzzi, Joseph Petigax, Laurent Croux and Felix Ollier, (Aug 22th, 1898).
Difficulty: D+/TD-.
Difference in height: About 2472m from Planpincieux.
Refuge: Rifugio Gabriele Boccalatte-Mario Piolti (2804m). Places when open: 25. Winter hut: 25 places.
Ascent time: 8,30-9,30 hours.
Descent: From normal route.
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, nuts, friends, ice axe, and crampons. Valpelline and Valtournenche Valley (Monte Cervino, Matterhorn) ☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺
DENT D'HÉRENS 4171m
First ascent: A. Giles Puller, Luigi Carrel, Emanuele, Jean Joseph and Pierre Maquignaz (Jul 18th, 1873).
Difficulty: AD.
Difference in height: About 2230m.
Refuge: Rifugio Prarayer (2005m). Places when open: 50. Winter hut: 5 places. Rifugio Aosta (2781m). Places when open: 28. Winter hut: 16 places.
Ascent time: 9,00-10,00 hours.
Descent: Along the ascent route.
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.
MONTE CERVINO / MATTERHORN 4478m
First ascent: Jean Baptiste Bich and Jean Antoine Carrel, (Jul 16th, 1865).
Difficulty: AD+/D-.
Difference in height: About 2480m from Breuil.
Refuge: Rifugio Duca degli Abruzzi (2802m). Places when open: 40. Winter hut: 5 places. Rifugio Jean Antoine Carrel (3835m). Always open Places: 50.
Ascent time: 11,00-12,30 hours.
Descent: Along the ascent route.
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons. Ayas and Gressoney Valley (Monte Rosa)☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺
BREITHORN 4165m
First ascent: Henry Maynard, Joseph-Marie Couttet, Jean-Baptiste Herin, Jean-Jacques Herin and Jean Gras, (Aug 13th, 1813).
Difficulty: F.
Difference in height: About 685m. From Plateau Rosà.
Refuge: Rifugio Guide del Cervino (3480m). Places when open: 40.
Ascent time: 3,30-4,00 hours.
Descent: Along the ascent route.
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, ice axe, and crampons.
ROCCIA NERA / SCHWARZFLUH 4075m
First ascent: John Stafford Anderson, Ulrich Almer and Aloys Pollinger, (Aug 16th, 1884).
Difficulty: AD/AD+
Difference in height: About 600m. From Plateau Rosà.
Refuge: Rifugio Guide del Cervino (3480m). Places when open: 40. Bivacco fisso Rossi-Volante (3850m).
Ascent time: 4,30-5,30.
Descent: From SW Wall or along the same route.
Equipment:High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.
POLLUCE / POLLUX 4091m
First ascent: Jules Jacot, Peter Taugwalder and Josef-Marie Perren, (Aug 01th, 1864).
Difficulty: PD+/AD-.
Difference in height: About 2400m. From Saint-Jacques.
Refuge: Rifugio Guide della Valle d'Ayas (3425m). Places when open: 80. Winter hut: 16 places.
Ascent time: 8,30-9,30 hours.
Descent: Along the ascent route.
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.
CASTORE / CASTOR 4228m
First ascent: William Mathews, F. W. Jacomb, Michel and J. B. Croz, (Aug 23th, 1861).
Difficulty: F+.
Difference in height: About 1560m from Bettaforca Pass.
Refuge: Rifugio Quintino Sella (3585m). Places when open: 150. Winter hut: 35 places.
Ascent time: 9,00-10,00 hours.
Descent: Along the ascent route.
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.
LYSKAMM ORIENTALE 4527m
First ascent: W. E. Hall, J. F. Hardy, J. A. Hudson and company, (Aug 19th, 1861).
Difficulty: PD-/AD-.
Difference in height: About 1030m from Rifugio Città di Mantova.
Refuge: Rifugio Giovanni Gnifetti (3647m). Places when open: 250. Winter hut: 15 places. Rifugio Città di Mantova (3500m). Places when open: 80. Winter hut: 15 places.
Ascent time: 5,00-5,30 hours.
Descent: Along the ascent route.
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.
LYSKAMM OCCIDENTALE 4481m
First ascent: Edward N. Buxton, Leslie Stephen, Jakob Andereg and Franz Biner, (Aug 16th, 1864).
Difficulty: PD.
Difference in height: About 900m from Ref. Quintino Sella.
Refuge: Rifugio Quintino Sella (3585m). Places when open: 150. Winter hut: 35 places.
Ascent time: 4,00-4,30 hours.
Descent: Along the ascent route.
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.
CORNO NERO / SCHWARZHORN 4322m
First ascent: William M. Conway and companions.
Difficulty: PD.
Difference in height: About 675m. from Rifugio Giovanni Gnifetti (3647m).
Refuge: Rifugio Città di Mantova (3500m). Places when open: 80. Winter hut: 15 places. Rifugio Giovanni Gnifetti (3647m). Places when open: 250. Winter hut: 15 places. Bivacco fisso Felice Giordano (4165m).
Ascent time: 3,00-4,00 hours.
Descent: Along the ascent route.
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.
BALMENHORN 4167m
First ascent: Peter Knubel and companion, (Jul 17th, 1873).
Difficulty: F+.
Difference in height: About 520m. from Rifugio Giovanni Gnifetti (3647m).
Refuge: Rifugio Città di Mantova (3500m). Places when open: 80. Winter hut: 15 places. Rifugio Giovanni Gnifetti (3647m). Places when open: 250. Winter hut: 15 places. Bivacco fisso Felice Giordano (4165m).
Ascent time: 2,00-2,30 hours.
Descent: Along the ascent route.
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.
PUNTA GIORDANI 4046m
First ascent: G. Calderini, V. Zoppetti and Giuseppe Gugliermina, (Aug 10th, 1877).
Difficulty: F+/PD-.
Difference in height: About 790m from Punta Indren.
Refuge: None.
Ascent time: 2,30-3,30 hours.
Descent: Along the ascent route.
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.
PIRAMIDE VINCENT 4215m
First ascent: Piero Chiozza, Guglielmo Guglielminetti, Nicola Motta and Antonio Pernettaz, (Aug 23th,1898).
Difficulty: PD.
Difference in height: About 1000m from Punta Indren.
Refuge: Rifugio Città di Mantova (3500m). Places when open: 80. Winter hut: 15 places. Rifugio Giovanni Gnifetti (3647m). Places when open: 250.
Ascent time: 3,00-4,00 hours.
Descent: Along the normal route NW slope.
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons. Images
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