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Around the north face
Route

Around the north face

 

Page Type: Route

Location: Julian Alps, Slovenia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.40840°N / 13.82380°E

Object Title: Around the north face

Route Type: Hiking and scramble

Time Required: A long day

Difficulty: Walk-up

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: Bor

Created/Edited: Oct 19, 2004 / Oct 19, 2004

Object ID: 162546

Hits: 2213 

Page Score: 0%  - 0 Votes 

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Approach


Starting point of the route is Aljazev Dom hut (1015m), which lies in the heart of the Vrata valley. More info about the hut is on the front page. Hut is accessible by car from Mojstrana village (12km), which is placed in the upper Savska Dolina valley at the end of Vrata valley (71km to Ljubljana, 13 to Kranjska Gora). You exit from the main road following the signs either to 'Mojstrana' or 'Vrata'. If you are using public transport you will have to walk up the Vrata valley from Mojstrana (2.30h).


Route Description


Trail begins near the chapel by the Aljazev Dom hut. Gradually ascends through the forest till it reaches viewing point bellow the smooth cliff of Dolkova Glava (1717m). Than it turns left, firstly over the grassy slopes and over steep scree reaches less steep, undulating terrain just bellow the Stenar’s face (2501m). Behind this section path enters a steep and narrow scree valley, which spreads from Stenarska Vratca pass (2295m) and is surrounded by smooth cliffs. After some 10 minutes of ascend through it trail turns sharply right and gets out climbing steep slopes bellow Na Rusju plateau, where Bivak IV bivouac stands (1980m). Bivouac is cannot be seen till the last meters. 2.30-3h from Aljazev Dom hut.

Just below it you deter from the marked path and continue by the valley, which goes just below Stenar's walls on Stenarska vratca notch. This part of the route is not marked, and on the upper part goes through a very steep couloir. At the end of this couloir you must climb a little around UIAA I. In late summer there can be no more snow and the passage is very unpleasant. In spring, when snow is good, this is a very recommendable approach, usually used to ascend the summit by the most direct route and then ski down by the route.

You descend by the same route or over Sovatna valley back to Vrata valley.


Essential Gear


Good hiking shoes.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.