What's New On This Page?June 26th, 2004: Climbing routes list added.
OverviewStenar is a beautiful mountain, offering something to every mountaineer. As it is situated just opposite the magnificient Triglav north wall it is first of all a panorama mountain. On your camera you can hardly have enough wide angle lens to get the whole north wall on your picture. Next to being a hikers' mountain, it's certainly the most interesting tour-skiing mountain in the region. Just because of Triglav's panorama, of course. Skiing down is not easy, there are a few exposed and steep passages, but in good conditions it's still withing the range of a normal tour skiing. 1500 meters down through a great scenery! And third, let alone other, non-mountaineering sports, Stenar is also a fine climbers' mountain. In its north wall, called (Trikotnik = Triangle) a hard and beautiful direct route goes, and there are also some other possibilities.
The main Julian Alps range goes mainly in the west-east direction. On SP we have descriptions of Montaz, Vis, Mangart, Jalovec, Prisojnik, Razor and Triglav, just to name the most important peaks in the range. Well, Stenar lies between Razor and Triglav. Towards north and north-east it has steep rocky walls. Similar, just not so high, towards north-west. Towards west it falls with scree and rocky steps to the high plateau of Kriski podi. This beautiful carst plateau on the altitude of around 2000 meters carries 3 beautiful small lakes and on it's edge there is a mountain hut (Pogacnikov dom, 2050m). Similar scree slopes are also towards south, just that they are intermitted by higher walls and are usually not used for an ascent.
The first tourist ascent was done in 1836 by Henrik Freyer.
The general overview of Vrata valley, Triglav (on the left) and Stenar (on the right) you can see here.
Red spots are mountains which have own pages on SP.
You can reach Stenar from three main valleys. The usual and shortest approach is from the Vrata valley. It can be reached from the main Sava valley if you turn in Mojstrana towards south-west. Today the parking place is a few hundred meters before Aljazev dom (the hut), on the altitude of 1000m.
The second valley is Krnica, NW of the summit. If you drive by the main Sava valley, turn in Kranjska gora towards south (towards the Vrsic Pass), you turn left 2km after Jasna lake (just before the bridge over Pisnica creek) and drive by a narrow, bad road some more kilometers. You can not reach Koca v Krnici (hut) by car. From there you ascend Stenar over the Kriska stena wall and the nearby summit of Kriz, 2410m.
The third valley approach is the Soca valley. Arriving from Bovec to Trenta village, you turn there into Zadnjica valley, drive a few kilometers and find yourself at the bottom of the material cable-car. There starts the marked path to Kriski podi and Pogacnikov dom.
Map: Julijske Alpe (Julian Alps) - Triglav. Planinska zveza Slovenije. 1:20000
Routes OverviewNormal routes:
1. From south. You start at Aljazev dom, continue by Vrata valley towards Luknja pass, turn righ towards Kriski podi and ascend the steep Sovatna valley. Reaching the plateau, you continue towards north, below the notch between Kriz and Stenar turn right and by scree reach the summit. The path is mostly easy and marked. From Aljazev dom (hut) 4-5h. This route is used also for skiing down, but downwards you keep skiing right, just below Tiriglav's north wall, and there down to the hut. See a picture from a ski tour here.
2. Around the north face. You start at Aljazev dom, but unlike #1, you go westwards towards bivouac IV (1980m). Just below it you deter from the marked path and continue by the valley, which goes just below Stenar's walls on Stenarska vratca notch. This part of the route is not marked, and on the upper part goes through a very steep couloir. In late summer there can be no more snow and the passage is very unpleasant. In spring, when snow is good, this is a very recommendable approach, usually used to ascend the summit by the most direct route and then ski down by the route #1. From the notch as in #1 to the summit. Partly marked, 4-5h.
3. From north-west. You start in Krnica valley, reach its end on the foothills of Kriska stena, where a steep, with pegs and steel ropes assured climbing path begins. After some 500m of steep rocky slopes you reach the edge, where the west ridge of Kriz begins. It leads easily to the summit of Kriz, 2410m. Now you need to descend 100m to the Stenarska vratca notch and as in #1 to the summit. All the time marked and middle hard route (Not for dizzy mountaineers!). From the Koca v Krnici (hut) 5-6h.
4. From south-west. You start in Zadnjica valley. A beautiful marked path leads you up to Pogacnikov dom (hut), 2050m. From the hut you cross the plateau towards north east and up to Stenarska vratca notch and to the summit. Marked, 5-6h.
Some climbing routes in north wall:
Prevceva smer (Prevec route): II, 200m,
Brojanov raz: III, 400m,
Kamniska smer (Kamnik route): V, 375m,
Led iz severa (Ice from north): V, 5, M5, 1000m,
Ancljev steber (Ancelj pillar): V, VI, A0,
Direktna smer (direct route): VI, A2.
Red TapeNo limitations.
When To ClimbThe best season to climb Stenar is from July to October. For skiing the best months are April and May - when the conditions are safe of avalanches.
Weather: see here.
Even better site is wunderground - here's the direct link to Kredarica station, 2515m (below Triglav summit).
CampingIf you are not attempting to climb Stenar in one day, you can use one of many comfortable (but during summer very crowded) mountain huts:
Aljazev dom, Vrata valley, 1015m. Reachable by car and bus.
Koca v Krnici, Krnica valley, 1113m. From the parking place reachable in 30 min.
Koca Zlatorog, Trenta valley, 620m. Reachable by car and bus.
Pogacnikov dom, Kriski podi plateau, 2050m. Reachable in 4-5 hours from all three sides (as described in the chapter of hiking routes).
Bivouac IV, north of Stenar, 1980m.
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