You must go to the lakes of crater of the volcano, you can go there by car, or walking trought "Paso de Quetzal".
You must go to "laguna del sol" (the sun lake), in direction of the Fraile's peak.
You will see a rock towers under the fraile's peak(about the middle of the wall), you must go there.
Be careful!! rock falls!!!
The route is in the biggest tower, and you can get there by the west side of this peaks
It is a chimney, a passage, the biggest of all.
You can see a few photos of this route in the "photos section" of the "Nevado de Toluca" page.
The approach from the sun lake ("laguna del sol") to the base of the climb must be about 40 minutes.
This route was opened by Aaron Albarran, Hector Breton and Fher Vilchis, in february, 2005.
This route have about 45 meters, and two pitches.
A helmet is absolutely critical for this climb due to the possibilty of rock fall !!
You will go for mixed terrain (winter season), rock, ice & snow.
I advise to use crampons, and in some places may be, you can use the ice axe.
Technical climb, about 5.7/5.8, nuts (1 set), curve nuts (1 set), hexentrics(1 set), and pitons (about 10; all kind of pitons, "v", "z", "extraflat"...). Bad rock, in some places you will not find a god place to put a protection, so... don't fall down.
After 20 meters aprox., you will see two bolts in the right side of the chimney, this is the end of th first pitch.
You will go for mixed terrain (winter seasson), rock, ice & snow.
I advise to use crampons.
Technical climb, about 5.8/5.9, CAMALOTS (1 set ), curve nuts (1 set), hexentrics(1 set), and pitons (about 10; all kind of pitons, "v", "z".
Parallel cracks, so... be careful when you are putting your rock protection,
In the end of this second pitch, you will see another two bolts, and a hook to put your rope, and to do a rappel.
-winter clothes (gloves, lens, jacket....)
-1 set of curve nuts
-1 set of hexentrics
-1 set of half moons
-1 set of cams
-1 rope (60 meters)
- 15-20 carabiners
-10 quick draws (better shock absorbers)
-2 nut's extractor (one for the first climber, and one for the second)
- a smile.
(remember: "Light is right")
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.