OverviewThis 5 pitch crack climb climbs a series of crack and flake systems on the east side of the south buttress area of 3 O'clock Rock. While not highly rated in the guidebook, we found this route to be quite enjoyable and had a nice time on it. If you are looking for a change of pace from the usual slab climbs on this formation, this is a good route to do.
Getting ThereFollow the directions on the main page. Approach to the south buttress area to the base of the obvious wide handcrack.
Pitch #1 - 5.6 - Climb up the dirty dihedral then traverse to the left to reach the clean handcrack which quickly widens to fists then offwidth. Climb straight up to the base of the ringlock sized splitter and jamb this to the top (felt hard for the grade). Now traverse to the right to reach the belay at the tree. 150 feet
Pitch #2 - 5.5 - Climb straight up the slab and flakes supplementing the 2 bolts with cams. Undercling the big flake above then turn the corner and lieback up the right side of it. Now traverse to the left for 30 feet on the very narrow ledge to reach the belay at the tree. 90 feet
Pitch #3 - 5.8 - Jamb and lieback the nice clean dihedral above you then traverse up and to the right on thin slab to reach the second crack. Jamb and lieback this to the top to reach the belay. Great pitch. 120 feet
Pitch #4 - 5.5 - Climb directly up the slab then angle up and to the left on runout terrain to reach the belay at the Big Tree. 90 feet
Pitch #5 - 5.0 - Continue up the corner on the right and belay at the tree. 100 feet
Down - Rappel the route or the neighboring Big Tree 2000 route.
2 each cams to 2.5"
A 3" and 5" cam (optional, easy terrain)
1 each nuts
2 50 or 60 meter ropes