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Page Type: Route

Location: Washington, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 48.16230°N / 121.6178°W

Object Title: Cornucopia

Route Type: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Time Required: Half a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.10a (YDS)

Difficulty: II 5.10a PG

Number of Pitches: 3

Grade: II

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes


Page By: Martin Cash

Created/Edited: Oct 23, 2007 / Dec 31, 2007

Object ID: 350314

Hits: 3201 

Page Score: 75.81%  - 6 Votes 

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Cornucopia is a fun 3 pitch climb that features a nice variety of climbing styles. It is located on the east end of the south buttress. The first pitch offers a big athletic flake to lieback while the next 2 pitches offer sustained thin slab climbing.

First ascent by Don Brooks and Chris Syrjala in 1980.

Getting There

Approach to the south buttress area as per the main page. The first pitch starts at the big left facing flake system at the 2nd section you hit from the trail.

Route Description

Where s the bolts
Cornucopia Flake

Pitch #1 - 5.5 - Lieback up the big athletic left facing flake system using large cams to protect. Belay at the chains on top of the flake. Feels hard for the grade. 125 feet

Pitch #2 - 5.10a (5.6R) - Traverse to the right end of the ledge then perform a series of sustained thin friction moves (10a) protected by a bolt. Above this climb the slighly easier slab passing a bolt and going over the overlap. Supplement bolts with cams as needed. Climb straight up the slab getting a small cam in the dihedral before launching up and to the left for the last 40 feet of completely unprotected 5.6 knob climbing. 90 feet

Pitch #3 - 5.10a - Climb straight up the steeper slab clipping 7 bolts as you go. There is also a spot for a small cam placement near the top at the overlap. Going is sustained friction and small knobs in the 5.8 to 5.10a range. 150 feet

Down - 3 double rope rappels off the route's belay stations will get you to the ground.

Essential Gear

1 set of cams to 4"
7 draws
2 50 or 60 meter ropes

External Links

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Additions and Corrections

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Viewing: 1-2 of 2    
DWhiteDarrington Gear

Hasn't voted

It's great to see people getting out onto the Darrington rocks and enjoying themselves! There's alot of misinformation that has filtered in over the years however. I think its important to state that nowhere in Darrington are 60-meter ropes essential equipment. There are a very few pitches that can be linked together but there are no individual pitches or rappels that require 60 meters of rope. In almost every case climbers with two 60-meter ropes will be managing and carrying 20 meters of extra rope all day on the off chance of linking a pitch or two somewhere. This is the climber's choice of course, but if you've got a pair of 50-meter ropes, you are good-to-go in Darrington!

Cheers to all!

David Whitelaw

Posted Dec 29, 2007 2:07 pm
Martin CashRe: Darrington Gear

Martin Cash

Hasn't voted

Thanks David, you are absolutely correct. I went back and edited the gear recommendations.

Posted Dec 31, 2007 3:25 pm

Viewing: 1-2 of 2    


Where\'s the boltsBala following the first...Thin