Mountain Loop Highway
Overview
Cornucopia is a fun 3 pitch climb that features a nice variety of climbing styles. It is located on the east end of the south buttress. The first pitch offers a big athletic flake to lieback while the next 2 pitches offer sustained thin slab climbing.First ascent by Don Brooks and Chris Syrjala in 1980.
Getting There
Approach to the south buttress area as per the main page. The first pitch starts at the big left facing flake system at the 2nd section you hit from the trail.Route Description
Pitch #1 - 5.5 - Lieback up the big athletic left facing flake system using large cams to protect. Belay at the chains on top of the flake. Feels hard for the grade. 125 feet
Pitch #2 - 5.10a (5.6R) - Traverse to the right end of the ledge then perform a series of sustained thin friction moves (10a) protected by a bolt. Above this climb the slighly easier slab passing a bolt and going over the overlap. Supplement bolts with cams as needed. Climb straight up the slab getting a small cam in the dihedral before launching up and to the left for the last 40 feet of completely unprotected 5.6 knob climbing. 90 feet
Pitch #3 - 5.10a - Climb straight up the steeper slab clipping 7 bolts as you go. There is also a spot for a small cam placement near the top at the overlap. Going is sustained friction and small knobs in the 5.8 to 5.10a range. 150 feet
Down - 3 double rope rappels off the route's belay stations will get you to the ground.
Essential Gear
1 set of cams to 4"7 draws
2 50 or 60 meter ropes
External Links
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| DWhite | Darrington Gear | |
Hasn't voted | It's great to see people getting out onto the Darrington rocks and enjoying themselves! There's alot of misinformation that has filtered in over the years however. I think its important to state that nowhere in Darrington are 60-meter ropes essential equipment. There are a very few pitches that can be linked together but there are no individual pitches or rappels that require 60 meters of rope. In almost every case climbers with two 60-meter ropes will be managing and carrying 20 meters of extra rope all day on the off chance of linking a pitch or two somewhere. This is the climber's choice of course, but if you've got a pair of 50-meter ropes, you are good-to-go in Darrington! Cheers to all! David Whitelaw | |
| Posted Dec 29, 2007 2:07 pm | ||
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| Martin Cash | Re: Darrington Gear | |
Hasn't voted | Thanks David, you are absolutely correct. I went back and edited the gear recommendations. Martin | |
| Posted Dec 31, 2007 3:25 pm | ||
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