Blüemlisalphorn is the highest peak in the Blüemlisalp Group. Located at the east end of the long ridge shared with Morgenhorn and Wyssi Frau (Weisse Frau in German) it is the usual ending point of the classic Morgenhorn - Blüemlisalphorn Traverse. Its north face is a popular ice climb. The Northwest Ridge is the easiest ascent and descent route. The rocky south side of the peak is rarely climbed because of the poor rock quality.
L. Stephen, R. Liveing, J.K. Stone with M. Anderegg, P. Simond, and F. Ogi made the first ascent of the mountain via the Northwest Ridge on 27 August 1860.
Blüemlisalphorn is the Swiss spelling, Blümlisalphorn the German.
Climbs on the north are approached from the Blümlisalp Hut which can be reached from either Griesalp or more commonly from Kandersteg. From Kandersteg, it is 5 to 7 hours to the hut depending on your fitness level, ambition, and whether or not you shorten the walk with a ride on the lift.
There are routes from the Fründen Hut - not often climbed.
The three most commonly climbed routes on Blüemlisalphorn are:
The normal route is the Northwest Ridge rated PD or PD+. In good conditions there is little difficulty, but there are some steep limestone plates that can become icy and dangerous requiring great care.
The North Face is an ice route of variable standard and changing features. It is rated D- and is about 500 m.
The Northeast Ridge from Wyssi Frau is the last stage in the Morgenhorn - Blüemlisalphorn Traverse (normally done E to W). It is described as being more demanding than the Rochefort Ridge on Mt. Blanc or the Liskamm traverse in the Pennine Alps. It is a marvelous narrow ridge with large cornices on the south side. AD in good conditions, it can be dangerous in poor conditions or bad weather.