Morgenhorn - Blüemlisalphorn Traverse

Blüemlisalphorn Massif from the north. L to R: Morgenhorn, Wyssi Frau, Blümlisalphorn

Morgenhorn (L), Wyssi Frau (Middle), and Blüemlisalphorn (R) from the NW. The traverse of the three peaks follows the skyline between the three summits.  

The same group from the south

Overview

Between Morgenhorn and Wyssi Frau

The classic high alpine traverse of these three peaks is one of the best in the Alps. The portion of the ridge between the Weisse (Wyssi) Frau and Blüemlisalphorn has been described as of a higher standard and more demanding than the famous Rochefort Arete in the Mt. Blanc Massif or the Liskamm traverse in the Pennine Alps. The normal and recommended direction of the traverse is from the Morgenhorn to the Blüemlisalphorn, but it is frequently done in the reverse direction. The crest can also be attained via routes on the Weisse Frau and thus shortened to just the more interesting portion between the Weisse (Wyssi) Frau and the Blüemlisalphorn. The first complete traverse of the three peaks was made by M. & R. von Wyss on 13 July 1900.

Approach

The climb is normally accessed from the Blümlisalphütte. See main page for approach.

Route Description

Between Wyssi Frau and Blümlisalphorn

The recommended ascent of the Morgenhorn is via the NW Ridge. This PD route starts at the Blümlisalphütte and ascends the Morgenhorn Glacier to the NW Ridge which is then climbed directly in about 3.5 hours from the hut. (First Ascent: H. Baedeker, J. Bischoff, and U. Lauener on 14 August 1869) From the summit of the Morgenhorn the narrow corniced ridge is followed to the summit of the Weisse (Wyssi) Frau. This ridge is rated PD+ and takes one to two hours depending on conditions. (First Ascent: E. Cardinaux and G. Moilliet on 6 August 1898) The most interesting part of the traverse is the portion from the summit of the Weisse (Wyssi) Frau to the Blümlisalphorn (Northeast Ridge of the Blümlisalphorn). This is a marvelous wavy narrow corniced ridge involving two places of descent and some delicate climbing. This portion is rated AD and requires two to four hours depending on conditions. (First ascent: J. von Bergen & H.S. Hoare in Sept. 1879) Descent is normally made via the NW Ridge of the Blümlisalphorn (PD) then back across the glacier to the Blümlisalphütte. The ridge is straight forward, but caution is advised on the down sloping limestone slabs near its base. These are very treacherous when snow covered and/or icy.

Climbing Photos

Along the route

Along the route

Along the route

Descent via NW Ridge - Normal Route

NW Ridge is Left skyline

Descending NW Ridge

Descending NW Ridge

Attaining the ridge via NW Ridge of Wyssi Frau

First Light

Low on ridge

Summit rocks

Essential Gear

Rope, ice axe, crampons, and several ice screws.