Black Magic, 5.8, 1200’

Overview/Approach

Black Magic is one of the longest routes at the Needles in terms of pure elevation gain.  It starts at the southwestern toe of the Magician.  There are several pitch configuration opportunities, but 7 total seemed appropriate.   The first three pitches offer decent trad leads in morning shaded corners.  They average just over 100’ each and don’t make a lot of sense to combine.  The third pitch contains the route crux, a slightly awkward slab roof pull at the grade. The 4th pitch finishes the stacked left facing corner systems and continues up a rib splitting the broad slab face above.  At 230’ from the large ledge atop pitch three, you reach yet another comfortable ledge belay below a right facing corner.  The 5^th pitch runs up this easy corner and stems left at a small pine (2020) and climbs the slabby wide crack until reaching a thin flake gear belay at 220’.  The 6^th pitch climbs easy slab through an old button head bolt and continues through a three-bolt fixed belay for another 100’ trending right to a small ledge and gear belay (225’, 2 points of protection).  Another 100’ of easy slab gets you to the broad left traversing sloped ledge.  Walk it to the west end and 5^th class up to the huge diving board below the lookout.  On the north side you can traverse an exposed 5^th class section for a few meters, left to right, and then climb a few more meters up to the lookout.  Descend down the stairs back to the trail.

In the large flat area before the trail ascends switchbacks to the fire lookout, locate a cairned (2020) climbers trail that takes off right for the base of the Magician.  Leave your backpacks near the main trail and continue southeast following cairns to the impressive and steep west face.  Turn back right as you are descending to avoid an impassable gully and turn back left to that gully and follow it to an immediate left facing double corner.  Start in the left crack but stem to the right crack after several meters. 

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 110’-5.8/ Climb the left side corner stemming to the rightward option for a more aesthetic climb.  Near a shady multi-treed ledge, make the crux move of the pitch by stemming to the slab out left and make one or two moves at the grade to the ledge.  Belay on small to medium gear. 

2^nd Pitch- 105’- 5.7/ Make a steep move or two above the belay and follow easy ground which gives way to walking to the base of the next left facing corner which looks more intimidating then it climbs. 

3^rd Pitch- 105’- 5.8/ Too many options on this pitch, but the FA sticks to the corner true, out left.  Stem up the corner to a junction (old fixed gear as of 2020) where the climber in you will want to climb the short splitters out right.  Instead the route continues up the main corner past the fixed gear to the crux of the route, an awkward bulge pulled via slab foot work.  Medium gear on a nice ledge. 

4^th Pitch- 230’-5^th/ Continue up the corner (even though again there is incredible climbing up and right via splitters and flakes). Break out onto the broad face above the “horse's head”.  Continue up the run out arete (5^th class) splitting the broad face. At the end of a 70m rope, trend up and left to a medium gear belay in the right facing corner to your left.  Stance/small ledge. 

5^th Pitch- 210’- 5.7/ Climb up the corner and stem left at a mid-sized pine.  Continue up the arete atop the corner climbing a wide crack.  Look for a short left leaning crack that takes small to micro gear for a belay.

6^th Pitch- 225’-5^th/ Continue up run out slab above through an old button head bolt (2020) and pass a bolted belay continuing another 100’ while trending right to a small ledge with a short corner that takes small to medium gear. 

7^th Pitch- 100’-5^th/ Finish up the run-out slab to the long head wall below the fire lookout.  Walk left to the west end of the wall and 4^th class it up to directly below the old fire lookout.  Circumvent it to the north end and make a few exposed 5^th class moves traversing west and then up to the foundation to the lookout.  Descend the steps.

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Descend the wooden steps back to the main trail.  Most of the discussion you see on MP.com is dated and has to do with when the Fire Lookout existed and had an occupant.  There is no reason to rap any more, just top out on the foundation of the old look out and access the stairs down to the trail.

Essential Gear

70m rope.  Single rack to #3 plus a set of wires and/or off-set cams.  Half a dozen shoulder length slings.  The first three pitches get morning shade in the summer until at least mid-morning.  The rest of the route is exposed to the sun.