Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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36.10920°N / 118.484°W |
Route Type:
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Technical Rock Climb |
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Time Required:
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Less than two hours |
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Difficulty:
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5.10a |
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Approach
From the Witch / Sorcerer notch, hike around the north side of the Witch needle to the north face of the Warlock. There is a 5.5 chimney leading to the notch between the Witch and the Warlock. The Howling starts in the prominent splitter hand crack about 50' to the left of the chimney. A 5.9 1st pitch variation goes up the crack / chimney 30' to the left.
Route Description
Pitch 1~ (5.9) Climb the hand crack straight up to the ledge. Traverse left 25', then climb up 20' to a bolted belay. To avoid bad rope drag on the short traverse section, you can belay at the first ledge (two bolts) and do a short pitch to the next belay.
Pitch 2~ (5.10a) Climb up from the belay to a ledge, there is a block leaning onto the upper face, stand on the block and step up onto the face, climb the face past 3 bolts, continue up, passing the bolted anchor for the Titanic route (clip for pro). Belay on the top, (bolts).
Descent ~ Rappel from the top bolted anchor (120'), then do one more 140' rap to the ground from the bolts at the top of the first pitch.
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Essential Gear
Cams 1/2"- 4" one each. An extra 3"- 3.5" is optional for the first sction.
One set of nuts.
Slings
Quickdraws
Extra rope for rappels.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
fatdad - Aug 24, 2015 2:00 pm - Hasn't voted
Additional Route InformationThere are two separate cracks systems you can follow on the first pitch. The description appears to assume that you have to take the right one. It is probably the better looking of the two from a distance, but we climbed the left crack and found it fun and interesting as well. It leads directly to the rap anchors at the top of the first pitch, which sets you up nicely for the second pitch. On the second pitch, it is airy getting to the first bolt, but you can throw a sling around a flake for some additional pro, though it still feels really committing. One 70 m. will get you back down to the top of the first pitch, but from there you will need a second rope to get to the ground. There is also a way to descend down the opposite side with only a 70 m. but I don't know all the details of that descent.