Stars and Stripes Forever, 5.9, 2 Pitches

Overview/Approach

For some reason the local guide gives this route more of a recommendation than Slight (sic) of Hand, 5.10-, which is right next to it (to the left) and is a much better route.  But it is a good pairing with Slight of Hand because they start at the same exact spot at he base of the northwest corner of the Sorcerer.  Where Slight of Hand takes the left arcing roof crack, Stars and Stripes takes the rightward traverse over a large flake.  Once underneath a vertical crack series, climb up until you find yourself near a juggy roof pull that lands you atop a dishy face. The first roof you see out left with a bolt below it is a different route (The Raven) with a much more difficult roof pull.  All three of these routes start at essentially the same spot and use the Thin Ice rap to return to their base.

Descend the notch between Djin and Charlatan via one 5^th class move. Scramble up to the slabs on the right to avoid obstacles in the gully.  Descend back to the gully at a dying tree (2020).  In short order, look to traverse left up a short 4th class move to gain a ramp that leads directly to the lone (2020) tall pine tree.  Slight of Hand, the Raven and Stars and Stripes Forever all start at this tree.

Route Description

1^st/2^nd Pitches- 225’-5.9/ This route can easily be led as a single pitch by the competent leader. Traverse left to right on the obvious flake which leads to a crack system.  Climb up the crack which leads to a stance atop a large flake.  Step across left to the featured face and climb to below a roof out left.  Jug over the roof onto the sculptured face above and trend left through a single (1/4”-2020) bolt on the run out, but well below grade, dishy face to a ledge above.  Sling a boulder for the belay.  Difficult to determine any 5.9 climbing on this route.  One of the easiest routes at the Needles.

Descent

Rap the Thin Ice rap with a single 70m rope back to the Spooky notch and downclimb 4th class to the west to return to the base of the route.

Essential Gear

70m Rope.  Single to #3 or #4 and extra gear depending on your 5.7/8 comfort level.  Route is west facing.