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Black Magic, 5.8, 4 Pitches

Black Magic, 5.8, 4 Pitches

Black Magic, 5.8, 4 Pitches

Page Type: Route

Location: Nevada, United States, North America

Object Title: Black Magic, 5.8, 4 Pitches

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Half a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.8 (YDS)

Difficulty: II 5.8

Number of Pitches: 4

Grade: II

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes


Page By: rpc

Created/Edited: Apr 8, 2008 / Dec 1, 2009

Object ID: 395014

Hits: 3552 

Page Score: 83.1%  - 16 Votes 

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Black Magic

This is yet another Urioste classic and it is a fun (if short) one! The line climbs to the top of the "Lotta Balls Buttress" in 4 enjoyable pitches - fight your partner for the odd pitches as those are the only memorable ones. For what it's worth, we found this to be much more enjoyable than Lotta Balls next door but you should do both if you make the hike in.

Getting There

Black Magic
Lotta Balls Wall
Black Magic

Follow directions on the main Indecision Peak page as well as detailed approach info. for Lotta Balls route. Black Magic starts 50 feet to the right of the former off of a large boulder at the base.

Route Description

Black Magic
Black Magic

Pitch 1: 5.8, 120 feet. From the boulder at base, gently traverse the large flake to the right and move up 10 feet to clip the first bolt. Traverse left, then move up clipping the second bolt and then traverse back right. These initial 20 feet are the crux of the pitch. Follow crack and face flakes up to a single bolt (and gear) belay.

Pitch 2: 5.6, 100 feet. Climb straight up from belay on low angle flakes (good gear). Pick your line but you're aiming for a bolted belay about 25 feet below and near right edge of the huge roof looming above.

Pitch 3: 5.8, 120 feet. From belay traverse right to a crack and move up the crack to under the roof. Traverse further right directly under the roof and clip a bolt. Move up and once above the roof move back left on easy face to low angle crack. Belay when convenient on one of the bushy ledges.

Pitch 4: low 5th class, 80 feet. Climb directly up to the top of the buttress.

Same as Lotta Balls. Scramble down and (climber's) left 50 feet via brush filled gully. Do 1 short rap off a tree. Do another short rap off another tree (or downclimb what looks like low 5th class terrain). Make the final (steeper) rappel (yes - a tree IS involved). All of these are single rope. Scramble down gully (some class 3) back to your packs.

Essential Gear

Black Magic

Double cams from green Alien to #2 Camalot. Optional #3 Camalot (probably not needed). Couple mid to large nuts.

External Links

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Mountainproject page for this route is here.


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