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Calanque de Morgiou
Mountain/Rock

Calanque de Morgiou

 
Calanque de Morgiou

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Provence - Côte d'Azur, France, Europe

Lat/Lon: 43.20905°N / 5.44742°E

Object Title: Calanque de Morgiou

County: Bouches du Rhône

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 492 ft / 150 m

 

Page By: Andino

Created/Edited: Nov 10, 2006 / Nov 16, 2006

Object ID: 243032

Hits: 6436 

Page Score: 84.7%  - 19 Votes 

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Overview

When people talk about "Les Calanques" it actually covers an area that is almost 20 kms long with several climbing sites :

Calanque d'En-Vau
La Guardiole
Calanque de Sugiton / Luminy
CALANQUE DE MORGIOU
Calanque de Sormiou
Melette
Les Goudes
Marseilleveyre


The great thing is that you can climb almost all year long, apart from summer where it can be hot and closed for fire risks.
The landscape is stunning, as you climb right above the blue Mediterranean Sea !

The Calanques are also famous for two of its most passionated climbers :
Gaston Rebuffat and Georges Livanos (known as "Le Grec").

Map of Les Calanques
 



Staying... and Getting There

 
Calanque de Morgiou 06
 

- WHERE TO STAY :
The main place to stay is located in the small town of Cassis (20 kms East of Marseille). There you can find shops and petrol easily.
The camp site is :

Camping Les Cigales
Avenue de la Marne
13260 CASSIS
Tel 04 42 01 07 34

It would be a mistake to stay in Marseille as there can be traffic jams (second biggest city in France after Paris... 1 million people),
and there is no camp site. However the good thing about is that it is onyl 3 hours away from Paris by train.



- HOW TO REACH CALANQUE DE MORGIOU :
From Cassis, take road D559 west towards Marseille.
After crossing a beautiful plateau, you will drive down to the East side of Marseille.
When reaching the "Mazargue" round-about, turn left and follow signs saying "Baumettes". After a couple of kilometers you will then follow signs saying "Morgiou".
Keep driving on a winding road up to the Calanque.
About 30 minutes from the camp site by car.


Site Description & Essential Gear

 
Calanque de Morgiou 02
 

 
Calanque de Morgiou 03
 

 
Calanque de Morgiou 04
 

In Les Calanques, the entire rock is limestone.
It's not always perfect as there can be bushes and rotten rock, but usually the rock quality is very good.
Routes can be up to 150m high. A few are long horizontal traverse.
To descend, sometimes you have to abseil, sometimes you can walk down on the other side.

As there can several pitches the usual climbing gear is need :
2x 50m ropes
Quickdraws and sling
Abseiling equipment
Helmet (highly recommended !!)
Sun cream and lots of water in summer (undoubtedly)

Here is a description of the climbing areas in Calanque de Morgiou :



____Climbing Area________Routes________Pitches________Level____
Vallon des Escampons2015b to 6c
Parc des Baumettes10612b to 7a+
Le Prado1514b to 6b
Degun2115a to 6b+
Roche Percée2115a to 6c
Crêt de St Michel751 to 52b to 7a
L'Abri Côtier2113c to 7a+
Les Cabanons391 to 34c to 8a
Le Renard241 to 73b to 6c+
Le Canceou31 to 62b to 6b+
Anse du Figuier231 to 23b to 7a
La Voile91 to 102b to 7b
Cap Morgiou451 to 83a to 8a





Books, Maps & Weather

The best guidebook is :
Escalade dans les Calanques

The best map is :
IGN 3145ET Marseille / Les Calanques

And for weather forecast :
Meteo France > Cassis




Images

La Grande CandelleCalanque de SugitonRock climbing in winterRappeling down Le CrêtCalanque de Morgiou 02Sunset at MorgiouLe Crêt Saint Michiel
Calanque de Morgiou 01Calanque de Morgiou 04Calanque de Morgiou 06Calanque de Morgiou 03Cret Saint MichelCrêt de St Michel - La ChaloupeeRappeling down Le Crêt