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Calanque de Sugiton / Luminy
Mountain/Rock

Calanque de Sugiton / Luminy

 
Calanque de Sugiton / Luminy

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Provence - Côte d'Azur, France, Europe

Lat/Lon: 43.21190°N / 5.45425°E

Object Title: Calanque de Sugiton / Luminy

County: Bouches du Rhône

Activities: Hiking, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 912 ft / 278 m

 

Page By: Andino

Created/Edited: Nov 16, 2006 / Nov 16, 2006

Object ID: 244662

Hits: 10135 

Page Score: 88.51%  - 27 Votes 

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Overview

When people talk about "Les Calanques" it actually covers an area that is almost 20 kms long with several climbing sites :

Calanque d'En-Vau
La Guardiole
CALANQUE DE SUGITON / LUMINY
Calanque de Morgiou
Calanque de Sormiou
Melette
Les Goudes
Marseilleveyre


The great thing is that you can climb almost all year long, apart from summer where it can be hot and closed for fire risks.
The landscape is stunning, as you climb right above the blue Mediterranean Sea !

The Calanques are also famous for two of its most passionated climbers :
Gaston Rebuffat and Georges Livanos (known as "Le Grec").

Map of Les Calanques
 


Staying... and Getting There

 
Calanques - La Grande Candelle
 

- WHERE TO STAY :
The main place to stay is located in the small town of Cassis (20 kms East of Marseille). There you can find shops and petrol easily.
The camp site is :

Camping Les Cigales
Avenue de la Marne
13260 CASSIS
Tel 04 42 01 07 34

It would be a mistake to stay in Marseille as there can be traffic jams (second biggest city in France after Paris... 1 million people),
and there is no camp site. However the good thing about is that it is only 3 hours away from Paris by train.

- HOW TO REACH CALANQUE DE SUGITON :
From Cassis, take road D559 west towards Marseille.
After the village of Vaufrèges and before Le Redon, there is a round-about.
Turn left towards Col de Sugiton (3kms). Then drive down to the Calanque de Sugiton.
About 20 minutes from the camp site by car.

Site Description & Essential Gear

 
Calanques - view of La Grande...
 

 
Abseiling in Calanque de...
 

 
Traverse climbing in Les Calanques
 

In Les Calanques, the entire rock is limestone.
It's not always perfect as there can be bushes and rotten rock, but usually the rock quality is very good.
Routes can be up to 150m high. A few are long horizontal traverse.
To descend, sometimes you have to abseil, sometimes you can walk down on the other side.

As there can several pitches the usual climbing gear is need :
2x 50m ropes
Quickdraws and sling
Abseiling equipment
Helmet (highly recommended !!)
Sun cream and lots of water in summer (undoubtedly)

Here is a description of the climbing areas in Calanque de Sugiton :




_______Climbing Area___________Routes________Pitches________Level____
Pointe du Belvédère616b to 6c+
Le Virage3115c+ to 8a
La Grotte de l'Ours3316a+ to 8c+
Paroi des Grandes Toits1181 to 23b to 8b
Aiguille de Sugiton3612b to 7b
Bonne Mère616b to 7a
L'Oasis2215b to 8a
Le Promontoire des Américains51 to 35a to 7b
La Cathédrale181 to 44b to 8a / A3
Les Pierres Tombées381 to 94c to 8a / A3
Le Socle de la Candelle821 to 102b to 7c+ / A2
La Grande Candelle351 to 112b to 7b+ / A3
Cap Gros22 to 34c to 6a





Books, Maps & Weather

The best guidebook is :
Escalade dans les Calanques

The best map is :
IGN 3145ET Marseille / Les Calanques

And for weather forecast :
Meteo France > Cassis
Calanque at Moonrise
 

Images