Campfire Crags, 5.5-5.12a

Overview/Approach

Campfire Crags is one of the last Indian Cove, or for that matter Joshua Tree, destinations I have written up.  For good reason.  I have not camped in Indian Cove in over a decade.  But back when I did, it would always fill up on weekends and getting to most of these routes required “trespassing” through other folk’s campgrounds.  I have always been too respectful of one’s space to do that.   On a recent cold winter day however, no one was camped there and we got on most of the routes.  None of these are excellent climbs by any means.  However, Banquet, 5.9* and Fools Ruby, 5.8**, are both worthy climbs for their respective grades.  Again, there are many better climbs in Indian Cove you can reach without having to invade some other camper’s privacy if the campground is busy. 

Drive to Indian Cove and turn right at the T.  Campground Crags is the first formation on your right after turning right.  The south side has a plethora of moderates. There are sort of three main rope up areas, the east end has the easily identifiable McStain.  The middle section has the obvious left leaning crack that is Banquet.  The west end sticks out in front of the main wall on its own and has several obvious roofs via Spud Overhang and Genuine Cowhide.  The NE face has a collection of more difficult climbs. 

South Side, Routes Listed East to West When Facing the South Face

Leaden the Rock- 110’-5.9*/ Thoughtful steep slab climbing through three bolts up the face to the right of the corner that is Fools Ruby.  Once atop this face, continue on Fools Ruby to the rap anchor.  Route receives sun all day.  Fully bolted.  Dow

Fools Ruby- 110’-5.8**/ This route is not published in the local guide.  MP.com has it as 5.6 up to the final wall, where it says 5.8+.  This is a relatively secure solo for the competent climber.  Climb up the obvious right leaning corner located several meters to the right of Sokolove’s arete.  Full on for 5.6.  At the top of the corner turn left and follow bolts up the easy face.  Turn right and up on another easy face to the base of a short steep face with the rap anchor above.  Make a few steep 5.8 moves to the anchor.  Select rack for the corner, as the rest is bolted.  Route receives sun all day.  Dow

Feast, 5.11b-

Sokolove- 70’-5.6/ A fully bolted arete route just to the right of McStain and utilizes the same rap anchor.  A relatively secure solo for the competent climber.  Not your typical arete, plenty of holds on both sides of it.  Route receives sun all day.  Dow

Picnic- 55’- 5.6/ The weakness located between the two bolted lines of McStain and Sokolove.  Nothing remarkable.  A secure solo at the grade.   Route Receives sun all day. Select rack.  Dow

McStain- 55’-5.8/ A fully bolted route to a set of fixed anchors above.  Pure slab climb at the grade for the first half.  There is a water stain that crosses it.  Gets your attention at the grade off the deck.  Route receives full sun.  Dow

Kundalini Linguini Weenie- 30’-5.8*/ Decent short bolted route to a fixed rap on dark patina, located off the shelf above McStain and Pinic.  Dow

Feminine Itch- 70’-5.10b*/ A fully bolted route to a fixed rap just right of I Love My Marine.  Worth doing.  Dow

I Love My Marine- 80’-5.5*/ A relatively secure solo up a right trending ramp of sorts to a fixed rap.   Was fully bolted as of 2019, local modern guide referenced only two bolts.  South facing.  Dow

Banquet- 55’-5.9*/ Albeit a short one, this cool featured crack line is worthy if you are chasing down sunny cracks at Indian Cove. The start is a bit punchy, but all there at the grade. Smooth sailing hand jams and juggy holds after that. The rock is a bit crunchy but well worth it. Rap rings at top. Dow

Fetus- 55’-5.10a*/ A decent sport climb (although no recommendation in the local guide) to the left of the stellar trad route, Banquet, 5.9*. Shared fixed rap.  South facing.  Dow

Shattered- 55’-5.10b/ Way sandbagged sport climb that shares the same anchor as Fetus.  Perhaps one is supposed to traverse in from Fetus, but it made sense to try and climb it direct which involved some sort of circus like mantle with no hands through a bulge after the first clip which itself was height dependent.  Rap the route.  South facing.  The direct start of this route did not make much sense at the grade.  Dow

Impatience- 50’-5.7/ To the right of Heart Slab is a contrived route that is not included in the local guide as of 2024.  Zig zag to climb large plates up to a fixed rap.  Select rack or relatively secure solo for the competent climber.  Route receives sun most all day.  Dow

Heart Slab- 70’-5.8/ The 2nd half is well below grade.  This is a fully bolted route with five clips despite the local guide calling for gear. This is the left most route on the main south facing wall.  The climbing at the grade is more of an edge climb than slab.  The upper 2nd half is easy slab.  The bolt line takes you way left for some reason when straight up is the same kind of ground.  You can set a gear TR with a #3 and #4.  Last person down needs to scramble down the gully to the west or scramble down to the east a short distance and locate the fixed rap for a route not in the local guide as of 2024 named Impatience.  Five draws and a #3 and #4 with extension if you want to set up a top rope.  Route receives sun most all day.  Dow

Spud Overhang- 45’-5.10bR/ There are several routes on the next wall to the west.  A much shorter one than the main south wall.  The walls are separated by a gully.  A layback start on choss holds gets you started in the next weakness to the right of Genuine Cowhide.  Spud is not as sustained as Cowhide, but the crux start is tricky for gear and the grade, thus the “R” from the local guide.  Rock is not the best on this route.  Same descent and rack as Genuine.  A lone bolt on the route.  Route gets sun all day.  Dow

KalasUikov Kulture- 5.12a/

Genuine Cowhide- 50’-5.10a*/ The transition from into an overhang and traversing right out across the lone bolt is the crux and stout for the grade.  It is an awkward move, but you can sort of chimney off of a shoulder for a rest whilst clipping the bolt before making the move.  The route continues at the grade but more straight forward climbing up a typical Jtree flaring textured crack.  The pro is good throughout.  Offset cams are helpful as always in Jtree.  A single from #.5 through #3.  The #2 and #3 are good for a TR anchor.  Last person down the wall can 5^th class it down the back side by going up and then down east. Route receives sun all day.  Dow