Thus far, my favorite route in Indian Cove (excluding Rattlesnake Canyon) is Scareway (5.10b) (Alan Nelson). Scareway is located on probably the steepest and tallest wall at Indian Cove, Dos Equis, which is adjacent to the west campground area. Dos Equis offers some of the better moderate to hard ((70’-80’ and sustained) routes at Indian Cove including three multi-starred routes in Miramontes guide book: Scareway, Roadrunner (5.11b) and Tecate (5.12b). Dos Equis along with its adjoining wall Corona are within short walking distance to the much more common objective, Moosedog Tower.
Scareway consists of a typical Jtree flaring granular crack that challenges your ability to set secure hand jams. It is angular and thus forces balance as well. Towards the top you are rewarded with jugs through a roof. A single rope rap leads down the wall between Tecate and Roadrunner, the other two recommended routes on Dos Equis Wall. This allows you to warm up on Scareway and either top rope Tecate or scout out Tecate and Roadrunner before you lead them. There is a right to left buttress named South Buttress (5.7) that allows a competent party to solo to the before mentioned fixed rap as well. Miramontes makes note of “limited amount of sun midday”, but we found the wall quite inviting on a cold and wet February afternoon (snowed a foot up at Jtree proper the day before, closing the park!).
Enter Indian Cove and turn right for the west campground area (Moosedog Tower). Look for the obvious steep and dark brown wall on your right a short distance along the west campground road. Another short steep section adjoins to the left and is named Corona Wall.
Routes are listed Right to Left