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3228 Hits
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81.18% Score
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13 Votes
Page Type:
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Mountain/Rock |
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Lat/Lon:
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34.08323°N / 116.14122°W |
Activities:
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Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing |
Season:
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Spring, Fall, Winter |
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Overview/Approach
Dow leading the crux start to the "Party" routes...
Corral Wall is located in Middle Canyon, a relatively short canyon near the entrance to the much larger Rattlesnake Canyon in lower Joshua Tree (Indian Cove). Corral Wall’s broad southern exposure and lower elevation makes it a prime winter destination at Jtree. Corral is a bi-wall feature with an obvious left and right side featuring 14 routes as of 2012. Middle Canyon is easily reached from the Rattlesnake Canyon parking area in well less than half an hour.
Corral Wall features several good crack climbs, i.e. High Plains Drifter (5.9) and Czech Crack (5.10a). Many of the routes were established in 1990 by Geoff Archer and company.
Park at the main parking area (restrooms) for Rattlesnake Canyon. Enter the wash to the east and turn right as if heading up Rattlesnake. Rather than turn left up the white granite slabs surrounding the steep slot canyon at the entrance for Rattlesnake Canyon, head straight for a short and easy notch at the entrance to Middle Canyon. As soon as you crest the notch, Bucket Bronco (5.10a) and Czech Crack (5.10a) will be on your right.
Routes Listed Right to Left as you Face the Walls
Czech Crack, 5.10a
Right Wall
Bucket Bronco- 5.10a*/
Czech Crack- 5.10a*/ This route is sandbagged even by Jtree standards. A few challenging moves up a thin crack off the deck (edge up high and to the right) reach the fist-crack running through the roof. This fist-crack widens on top making the pull move challenging for this grade. Once through the roof, easier cracks lead to the top of the formation. There is a mid-rap station at the top of Pony Express half way up the wall. There is a lone rap hanger at the top of the formation directly above Czech Crack. You can scramble off the right side as well. I placed a solid micro cam on this pitch somewhere. Dow
Pony Express- 5.9*/ This route is soft by Jtree standards. Climb up the well featured face pass two bolts to a right slanting crack. Follow it up to a fixed station half way up the wall. This route is not sustained nor interesting and thus does not deserve a star in my opinion although granted one in Miramontes book. Dow
Exfoliation Confrontation- 5.9**/ There is a route (2012) (bolt followed by arching crack) located between Pony Express and Exfoliation Confrontation. Follow cruxy edge face climbing (off the deck) past three bolts to a horizontal crack. From there the climbing is mid-5th to a fixed station up and right. Not worthy of two stars in my opinion. Dow
Hang ‘Em High- 5.10a*/ Three bolts, forget gear as the bolts are at the horizontals. Typical run out 5.10 Jtree slab, but a fun worthy route. Crux is a bit above the 2nd bolt, kind of an awkward mantel slab move. Rap bolts on separate wall above. Dow
Left Wall
High Plains Drifter- 5.9*/ This pure crack pitch is worthy of more than one star in Miramontes guide. An excellent hands and finger pitch utilizing a series of short slanting cracks. The short bit of slab to the fixed station at top is low angled. Dow
Wild, Wild West- 5.10d*/
Party in the Desert- 5.10b***/ These are both pretty good routes although neither worth quite the praise Miramontes guide gives them in my opinion. They are both more interesting from the slab perspective than the shared crack. The start is not as bad as some have stated in terms of being polished, etc. If you want the start protected, step on your partners knee and place a small wire at the base of the crack. After the initial strenuous high step slab and crimps, the crack is easy going until the routes split onto bolts. It is all bolts after that. The left side has a finger rail feature for the left hand. Throwing your left foot up onto the horizontal while grabbing this rib is the key to the crux move. The right side route is a bit more difficult in my opinion (but closer bolts). Typical Jtree slab from there. Dow
Party to Ya’ Puke- 5.10b**/ Shared crack start with Party in the Desert. I find this right side more challenging, but better protected at the cruxes. This is more of a true slab climb then Party in the Desert, scoping out small features for your feet with crimps for your fingers. Typical Jtree 5.10 slab. The move to and through the horizontal is probably the crux. There is a bolt right above the large horizontal crack, thus you don't need to carry large gear for it. Dow
Six Gun by My Side- 5.10a*/ Decent bolted slab route. Has no crux like Hang em High, fairly basic Jtree slab. Never run out at a crux move. Worth doing if you are already on the Party routes which are stellar. Has its own rap station. Dow
Only Outlaws Have Guns- 5.9/ Mostly slab. Crux is after the moving up and right after the cam placement in the obvious undercling out left. Just a move or two. Shared fixed rap anchor with Six Gun. Dow
Ranch Hand- 5.6/ Decent stem/chimney solo up darker rock. Deep corner to the left of Outlaws. Rap off of Chuck Wagon's fixed rap on the ledge. Dow
Chunk Wagon Crack- 5.9*/ Left facing stem to hand jam corner route just to the left of Ranch Hand. Takes all the gear you want to place. It is only 5.7 to the ledge. The 5.9 portion of this route is the continuation up past the fixed rap and ledge, up a closed chossy seam, with a RX factor to the top. Dow
Honky Justice- 5.12a/