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Corral Wall, 5.6-5.12a
Mountain/Rock

Corral Wall, 5.6-5.12a

 
Corral Wall, 5.6-5.12a

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 34.08323°N / 116.14122°W

Object Title: Corral Wall, 5.6-5.12a

Activities: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing

Season: Spring, Fall, Winter

 

Page By: Dow Williams

Created/Edited: Dec 24, 2012 / Feb 3, 2014

Object ID: 831373

Hits: 660 

Page Score: 81.18%  - 13 Votes 

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Overview/Approach

 
Party in the Desert, 5.10b
Dow leading the crux start to the "Party" routes...
Corral Wall is located in Middle Canyon, a relatively short canyon near the entrance to the much larger Rattlesnake Canyon in lower Joshua Tree (Indian Cove). Corral Wall’s broad southern exposure and lower elevation makes it a prime winter destination at Jtree. Corral is a bi-wall feature with an obvious left and right side featuring 14 routes as of 2012. Middle Canyon is easily reached from the Rattlesnake Canyon parking area in well less than half an hour.
 
Exfoliation Confrontation, 5.9
Exfoliation Confrontation, 5.9

Corral Wall features several good crack climbs, i.e. High Plains Drifter (5.9) and Czech Crack (5.10a). Many of the routes were established in 1990 by Geoff Archer and company.

Park at the main parking area (restrooms) for Rattlesnake Canyon. Enter the wash to the east and turn right as if heading up Rattlesnake. Rather than turn left up the white granite slabs surrounding the steep slot canyon at the entrance for Rattlesnake Canyon, head straight for a short and easy notch at the entrance to Middle Canyon. As soon as you crest the notch, Bucket Bronco (5.10a) and Czech Crack (5.10a) will be on your right.

Route Description(s)

 
Pony Express, 5.9
 
 
Cacti
 
 
High Plains Drifter, 5.9
 

 
Czech Crack, 5.10a
 Czech Crack, 5.10a

Routes Listed Right to Left as you Face the Walls

Right Wall
  • Bucket Bronco- 5.10a/*

  • Czech Crack- 5.10a/*
  • This route is sandbagged even by Jtree standards. A few challenging moves up a thin crack off the deck (edge up high and to the right) reach the fist-crack running through the roof. This fist-crack widens on top making the pull move challenging for this grade. Once through the roof, easier cracks lead to the top of the formation. There is a mid-rap station at the top of Pony Express half way up the wall. There is a lone rap hanger at the top of the formation directly above Czech Crack. You can scramble off the right side as well. I placed a solid micro cam on this pitch somewhere. Dow

  • Pony Express- 5.9/*
  • This route is soft by Jtree standards. Climb up the well featured face pass two bolts to a right slanting crack. Follow it up to a fixed station half way up the wall. This route is not sustained nor interesting and thus does not deserve a star in my opinion although granted one in Miramontes book. Dow

  • Exfoliation Confrontation- 5.9/**
  • There is a route (2012) (bolt followed by arching crack) located between Pony Express and Exfoliation Confrontation. Follow cruxy edge face climbing (off the deck) past three bolts to a horizontal crack. From there the climbing is mid-5th to a fixed station up and right. Not worthy of two stars in my opinion. Dow

  • Hang ‘Em High- 5.10a/*
  • Three bolts, forget gear as the bolts are at the horizontals.  Typical run out 5.10 Jtree slab, but a fun worthy route.  Crux is a bit above the 2nd bolt, kind of an awkward mantel slab move.  Rap bolts on separate wall above. 

    Left Wall
  • High Plains Drifter- 5.9/*
  • This pure crack pitch is worthy of more than one star in Miramontes guide. An excellent hands and finger pitch utilizing a series of short slanting cracks. The short bit of slab to the fixed station at top is low angled. Dow

  • Wild, Wild West- 5.10d/*

  • Party in the Desert- 5.10b/***
  • These are both pretty good routes although neither worth quite the praise Miramontes guide gives them in my opinion. They are both more interesting from the slab perspective than the shared crack. The start is not as bad as some have stated in terms of being polished, etc. If you want the start protected, step on your partners knee and place a small wire at the base of the crack. After the initial strenuous high step slab and crimps, the crack is easy going until the routes split onto bolts. It is all bolts after that. The left side has a finger rail feature for the left hand. Throwing your left foot up onto the horizontal while grabbing this rib is the key to the crux move. The right side route is a bit more difficult in my opinion (but closer bolts). Typical Jtree slab from there. Dow

  • Party to Ya’ Puke- 5.10b/**
  • Shared crack start with Party in the Desert.   I find this right side more challenging, but better protected at the cruxes.  This is more of a true slab climb then Party in the Desert, scoping out small features for your feet with crimps for your fingers.  Typical Jtree 5.10 slab.  The move to and through the horizontal is probably the crux.  There is a bolt right above the large horizontal crack, thus you don't need to carry large gear for it.   Dow

  • Six Gun by My Side- 5.10a/*
  • Decent bolted slab route.  Has no crux like Hang em High, fairly basic Jtree slab.  Never run out at a crux move.  Worth doing if you are already on the Party routes which are stellar. Has its own rap station.

  • Only Outlaws Have Guns- 5.9/

  • Ranch Hand- 5.6/

  • Chunk Wagon Crack- 5.9/*

  • Honky Justice- 5.12a/
  • External Links

  • Joshua Tree National Park Including Map.
  • Campsites
  • Images

    Party in the Desert, 5.10bHigh Plains Drifter, 5.9CactiCactiCorral Wall LeftExfoliation Confrontation, 5.9Pony Express, 5.9
    Czech Crack, 5.10aExfoliation Confrontation, 5.9Corral Wall from PonderosaPony Express, 5.9