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Chimtarga
Mountain/Rock

Chimtarga

 
Chimtarga

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Tajikistan, Asia

Lat/Lon: 39.19778°N / 68.19500°E

Object Title: Chimtarga

Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Mixed

Season: Summer

Elevation: 18008 ft / 5489 m

 

Page By: JanVanGenk

Created/Edited: Nov 27, 2011 / Dec 2, 2011

Object ID: 762448

Hits: 2972 

Page Score: 81.84%  - 14 Votes 

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Overview

Chimtarga (5489 m) is the highest peak in the Fan Mountains. Located near the Mutnye Lakes, it has no trivial walk-up route to the summit. The ascent routes start either from the Mutnye Lakes or from the Right Zindon valley. The Right Zindon valley can be reached either by hiking in from west via the Big Allo Lake, or from east via the Mutnye Lakes by crossing over the 4750 m high Chimtarga pass, which lies between the peaks Energia (5120 m) and Chimtarga.

 
Alpenglow on Chimtarga
Alpenglow on Chimtarga (in the middle) as seen from the high camp on Zamok.


 
Chimtarga
On the upper northern slopes of Chimtarga, looking towards the summit.


 
Chimtarga as seen from Energia
The south face of Chimtarga, as seen from the summit of Energia (5120 m).


 
View on Chimtarga
Chimtarga as seen from east.
 
On the way to the Chimtarga pass
Climbing towards the Chimtarga pass (4750 m) below the SE face of Chimtarga.

Getting There

A usual starting point for climbing in the area is the mountaineers' camp "Vertical-Alaudin"(2641 m) in the Chapdara Valley near the gorgeous Alaudin Lakes. From there it is an easy 7 km hike of about 3 hours up to the Mutnye Lakes (3519 m). There is a possibility to hire donkeys at "Vertical-Alaudin".

 
Chapdara valley
A panoramic view of the Chapdara valley near mountaineers' camp "Vertical-Alaudin".


 
Trail to the Mutnye Lakes
Route from the Big Alaudin Lake to the Mutnye Lakes.
 
Camp at the Mutnye Lakes
Camping at the Mutnye Lakes (looking south).
 
Mutnye Lakes and Chimtarga
Camp sites at the Mutnye Lakes with Chimtarga in the background (looking west).


For more information, see the chapters "Getting There and Getting Around" and "Accommodation - Places to Stay - Camping" in the Fan Mountains page.

Routes

The established routes vary from Russian grade 2b to 6a (description of the Russian climbing grades can be found here). The website of "Vertical-Alaudin" contains detailed information about the more difficult routes on Chimtarga (in Russian only). These links are included in the following table.


Grade (Russian) Characteristics Orientation First Ascent (Leader, Year) Starting Point
2b mixed from north via the Mirali pass A. Mukhin, 1937 Right Zindon valley
4a ice-snow from east via the Don (Avlo) pass Mutnye Lakes
4a ice-snow from SE A. Sibirtcev, 1936 Mutnye Lakes
4b mixed east buttress A. Mineev, 1986 Mutnye Lakes
5a mixed NW face I. Barkhatov, 1967 Right Zindon valley
5a mixed SW buttress L. Kaluzhskii, 1967 Right Zindon valley
5b rock south face V. Ianov, 1976 Mutnye Lakes
5b rock south face-SE ridge V. Stadnik, 1983 Mutnye Lakes
6a rock west face S. Prusakov, 1974 Right Zindon valley
6a rock west face S. Soldatov, 2006 Right Zindon valley

 
Chimtarga: summit view
Approaching the summit of Chimtarga: a 180° panorama from S to N, looking west.

Red Tape

No fees (environmental, climbing, etc.) as for 2011. Travellers (with a tourist visa) staying maximum 1 month are exempt from the OVIR registration as for 2011. As the conditions are vulnerable to change please check with the Tajik embassy and/or your local agency in Tajikistan.
For visas and registration, see also the chapter "Red Tape (Visas, Border Crossing, Registration etc.)" in the Fan Mountains page.

When to Climb

The mountaineering season is from June to September (July and August being the most popular months), when the weather is usually stable, warm and dry.

External Links

Maps

  • A topographic map of the Fan Mountains
  • A map of the area by V. Kopylov. Mountaineers' camp "Vertical-Alaudin" is marked as "Base camp" on this map.
  • 1:100 000 topographic map of the Fan Mountains by EWP
  • Russian military topographic maps (scale 1:100 000 and 1:200 000) at Mapstor.com
  • Russian military topographic maps (scale 1:50 000 and 1:100 000) at Poehali.org

Images

Alpenglow on ChimtargaChimtargaChimtarga as seen from EnergiaChimtarga: summit viewView on ChimtargaAlpenglow on ChimtargaChimtarga pass
On the way to the Chimtarga passCamp at the Mutnye LakesChapdara valleyMutnye Lakes and ChimtargaTrail to the Mutnye Lakes