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Zamok
Mountain/Rock

Zamok

 
Zamok

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Tajikistan, Asia

Lat/Lon: 39.21247°N / 68.28321°E

Object Title: Zamok

Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Mixed

Season: Summer

Elevation: 16634 ft / 5070 m

 

Page By: DoJo

Created/Edited: Oct 26, 2008 / Feb 15, 2011

Object ID: 457204

Hits: 4100 

Page Score: 79.78%  - 11 Votes 

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Overview

A prominent summit near Mutnye Lake, with several difficult climbing routes on the north and west face. The normal route is an easy ascent in the first part several hundert meters elevation gain over loose scree afterwards a glacier (btw. Zamok means castle).

View from Alaudin Pass
Zamok from Alaudin Pass
Zamok
Zamok N-Face
Zamok - West Face
Zamok W-Face
Kaznok valley - Pik Energia (East Ridge)
Zamok from Kaznok Valley

Getting There

Starting at the Alaudin Lakes (or Alaudin Camp) in the Pasruddaria Valley - a convenient one day walk-in to Mutnye Lake.

See the chapter "Accommodation - Places to Stay - Camping" in the Fan Mountains page for more information about the Alaudin Camp.
Alaudin Lake (Fan Mountains)
Alaudin Lake (looking south)
The blue Alaudin Lakes (Fan Mountains)
Alaudin Lake
Looking south over Mutnyi Lake
Mutnyi Lake
Flower near Mutnyi Lake (Fan Mountains)
Flower near Mutnyi Lake

Route Description

Start from Mutnye Lake eastwards turn southwards between Fagitor (3.925m) and Zamok. Follow the scree slope (eastwards again) to the glacier. Near the glacier are some bivouac places (apporx 4.350m). Walk up the moraine to the glacier (the icefall might me diffucult) and continue to the Col between Pakhkamber and Zamok. Walk northwards to the summit of Zamok.
A very long day with an very early start at Mutnye Lake (or two days with a bivouac near the glacier).

Zamok Glacier
Zamok Glacier
Icefall - Zamok Glacier
Icefall - Zamok Glacier
Ascent to Zamok
Col between Pakhkamber and Zamok
Zamok
to the summit


Views - from near the summit


Bolshaya Ganza (Fan Mountains)
Bolshaya Ganza
Chimtarge Pass (Fan Mountains)
Energia - Chimtarga
Pakhkamber
Pakhkamber

Red Tape

Information about visa, registration and environmental fees are mentioned in the Red Tape in the Fan Mountain Page.

When to Climb

As mentioned in the Fan Mountain Range Page: The mountaineering season is usually June to September, when the weather is stable, warm and dry.

Images