Zamok

Overview

A prominent summit near Mutnye Lake, with several difficult climbing routes on the north and west face. The normal route is an easy ascent in the first part several hundert meters elevation gain over loose scree afterwards a glacier (btw. Zamok means castle).

Zamok from Alaudin Pass
Zamok N-Face	Zamok W-Face	Zamok from Kaznok Valley

Getting There

Starting at the Alaudin Lakes (or Alaudin Camp) in the Pasruddaria Valley - a convenient one day walk-in to Mutnye Lake.

See the chapter "Accommodation - Places to Stay - Camping" in the Fan Mountains page for more information about the Alaudin Camp.

Alaudin Lake (looking south)	Alaudin Lake
Mutnyi Lake	Flower near Mutnyi Lake

Route Description

Start from Mutnye Lake eastwards turn southwards between Fagitor (3.925m) and Zamok. Follow the scree slope (eastwards again) to the glacier. Near the glacier are some bivouac places (apporx 4.350m). Walk up the moraine to the glacier (the icefall might me diffucult) and continue to the Col between Pakhkamber and Zamok. Walk northwards to the summit of Zamok.
A very long day with an very early start at Mutnye Lake (or two days with a bivouac near the glacier).

Zamok Glacier	Icefall - Zamok Glacier
Col between Pakhkamber and Zamok	to the summit

Views - from near the summit

Bolshaya Ganza	Energia - Chimtarga	Pakhkamber

Red Tape

Information about visa, registration and environmental fees are mentioned in the Red Tape in the Fan Mountain Page.

When to Climb

As mentioned in the Fan Mountain Range Page: The mountaineering season is usually June to September, when the weather is stable, warm and dry.

Images

View Zamok Image Gallery - 21 Images