Overview
Energia (which means "Energy" in Russian) is one of the 5000-meter peaks in the
Fan Mountains. It is located near the Mutnye Lakes, very close to the highest peak in the region -
Chimtarga (5489 m), from which it is separated by the Chimtarga pass (4750 m). The easiest route to the summit is a Russian grade 2b route along the north ridge/north face.
The ascent routes start either from the Mutnye Lakes (which lie at the upper end of the Chapdara valley) or from the Right Zindon valley. The latter can be reached either by hiking in from west via the Big Allo Lake, or from east via the Mutnye Lakes by crossing over the Chimtarga pass (4750 m).
![Energia from the Chimtarga pass]() Energia as seen from the Chimtarga pass (4750 m). | ![SE face of Energia]() The SE face of Energia (5120 m) as seen from the upper Kaznok valley. | ![South face of Energia]() The south face of Energia. |
![Energia from the upper Kaznok valley]()
Energia as seen from the upper Kaznok valley. Far ahead are the mountain passes Kaznok East and VAA, which connect the Kaznok valley with the Mutnye Lakes at the upper end of the Chapdara valley.![Energia from east]()
Energia as seen from east.Getting There
A usual starting point for climbing in the area is the mountaineers' camp
"Vertical-Alaudin" (2641 m) in the Chapdara Valley near the gorgeous Alaudin Lakes. From there it is an easy 7 km hike of about 3 hours up to the Mutnye Lakes (3519 m). There is a possibility to hire donkeys at "Vertical-Alaudin".
![Chapdara valley]()
A panoramic view of the Chapdara valley near mountaineers' camp "Vertical-Alaudin".![Trail to the Mutnye Lakes]() Route from the Big Alaudin Lake to the Mutnye Lakes. | ![Camp at the Mutnye Lakes]() Camping at the Mutnye Lakes. | ![View on Energia from near the Mutnye Lakes]() Approaching the Mutnye Lakes, looking SW towards Energia. |
For more information, see the chapters
"Getting There and Getting Around" and
"Accommodation - Places to Stay - Camping" in the Fan Mountains page.
Routes
The established routes vary from Russian grade 2b to 5a (description of the Russian climbing grades can be found
here). The
website of "Vertical-Alaudin" contains detailed information about the more difficult routes on Energia (in Russian only). These links are included in the following table.
| Grade (Russian)
| Characteristics
| Orientation
| First Ascent (Leader, Year)
| Starting Point
|
| 2b
| mixed
| north ridge/north face
| E. Kazakova, 1937
| Mutnye Lakes
|
| 4a
| rock
| east ridge
| Iu. Pivnenko, 1973
| Mutnye Lakes
|
| 4a
| mixed
| west ridge
| Iu. Karpov, 1967
| Right Zindon valley
|
| 5a
| mixed
| NE face
| A. Neplokhov, 1979
| Mutnye Lakes
|
| 5a
| mixed
| west face
| V. Menshikov, 1967
| Right Zindon valley
|
![North face route]() The north face route (Russian grade 2b) to the summit of Energia. | ![North face of Energia]() The north face of Energia: abseiling the steepest part of the route. | ![Peak Energia]() Descending the steep north face of Energia. |
Summit Views
Below are some informative photos taken from the summit of Energia. These photos display the names of surrounding peaks (in brown letters) and mountain passes (in blue letters).
![Summit panorama]()
A 270° panoramic view from the summit of Energia from E to N (looking south).![Summit panorama]()
A 360° panorama from the summit of Energia.![Summit view]() A view SE from the summit of Energia. | ![Summit view]() A view east from the summit of Energia. | ![Summit view]() A view from the summit of Energia towards the Mutnye Lakes. |
![Summit view]() A view south towards the Biriuzovoe Lake (in the middle) from the summit of Energia. | ![Summit view]() At the summit of Energia, looking SW. | ![Right Zindon valley]() At the summit of Energia, looking NW towards the Right Zindon valley. |
![Chimtarga as seen from Energia]()
The south face of Chimtarga, as seen from the summit of Energia (5120 m).Red Tape
No fees (environmental, climbing, etc.) as for 2011. Travellers (with a tourist visa) staying maximum 1 month are exempt from the OVIR registration as for 2011. As the conditions are vulnerable to change please check with the Tajik embassy and/or your local agency in Tajikistan.
For visas and registration, see also the chapter
"Red Tape (Visas, Border Crossing, Registration etc.)" in the Fan Mountains page.
When to Climb
The mountaineering season is from June to September (July and August being the most popular months), when the weather is usually stable, warm and dry.
External Links
Maps
- A topographic map of the Fan Mountains
- A map of the area by V. Kopylov. Mountaineers' camp "Vertical-Alaudin" is marked as "Base camp" on this map.
- 1:100 000 topographic map of the Fan Mountains by EWP
- Russian military topographic maps (scale 1:100 000 and 1:200 000) at Mapstor.com
- Russian military topographic maps (scale 1:50 000 and 1:100 000) at Poehali.org
Trip reports
- Fan Mountains 2009 by A. Burke. An excellent photo trip report about trekking (including the mountain passes Chimtarga and Mirali) and climbing (Zamok, Energia) around the Mutnye Lakes.
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Energia as seen from the Chimtarga pass (4750 m).
The SE face of Energia (5120 m) as seen from the upper Kaznok valley.
The south face of Energia.
Energia as seen from the upper Kaznok valley. Far ahead are the mountain passes Kaznok East and VAA, which connect the Kaznok valley with the Mutnye Lakes at the upper end of the Chapdara valley.
Energia as seen from east.
A panoramic view of the Chapdara valley near mountaineers' camp "Vertical-Alaudin".
Route from the Big Alaudin Lake to the Mutnye Lakes.
Camping at the Mutnye Lakes.
Approaching the Mutnye Lakes, looking SW towards Energia.
The north face route (Russian grade 2b) to the summit of Energia.
The north face of Energia: abseiling the steepest part of the route.
Descending the steep north face of Energia.
A 270° panoramic view from the summit of Energia from E to N (looking south).
A 360° panorama from the summit of Energia.
A view SE from the summit of Energia.
A view east from the summit of Energia.
A view from the summit of Energia towards the Mutnye Lakes.
A view south towards the Biriuzovoe Lake (in the middle) from the summit of Energia.
At the summit of Energia, looking SW.
At the summit of Energia, looking NW towards the Right Zindon valley.
The south face of Chimtarga, as seen from the summit of Energia (5120 m).
runout - Jul 31, 2019 12:59 am - Voted 8/10
information about the (normal) North Face route from Chimtarga pass~150m of ~45° Snow/Ice. Lots of slings on the rocks (climbers left) for belaying and/or abseiling. Guided groups install fixed ropes - no problem to move around them as they can be very slow. (July 2019).