OverviewEnergia (which means "Energy" in Russian) is one of the 5000-meter peaks in the Fan Mountains. It is located near the Mutnye Lakes, very close to the highest peak in the region - Chimtarga (5489 m), from which it is separated by the Chimtarga pass (4750 m). The easiest route to the summit is a Russian grade 2b route along the north ridge/north face.
The ascent routes start either from the Mutnye Lakes (which lie at the upper end of the Chapdara valley) or from the Right Zindon valley. The latter can be reached either by hiking in from west via the Big Allo Lake, or from east via the Mutnye Lakes by crossing over the Chimtarga pass (4750 m).
Getting ThereA usual starting point for climbing in the area is the mountaineers' camp "Vertical-Alaudin" (2641 m) in the Chapdara Valley near the gorgeous Alaudin Lakes. From there it is an easy 7 km hike of about 3 hours up to the Mutnye Lakes (3519 m). There is a possibility to hire donkeys at "Vertical-Alaudin".
For more information, see the chapters "Getting There and Getting Around" and "Accommodation - Places to Stay - Camping" in the Fan Mountains page.
RoutesThe established routes vary from Russian grade 2b to 5a (description of the Russian climbing grades can be found
here). The website of "Vertical-Alaudin" contains detailed information about the more difficult routes on Energia (in Russian only). These links are included in the following table.
|Grade (Russian)||Characteristics||Orientation||First Ascent (Leader, Year)||Starting Point|
|2b||mixed||north ridge/north face||E. Kazakova, 1937||Mutnye Lakes|
|4a||rock||east ridge||Iu. Pivnenko, 1973||Mutnye Lakes|
|4a||mixed||west ridge||Iu. Karpov, 1967||Right Zindon valley|
|5a||mixed||NE face||A. Neplokhov, 1979||Mutnye Lakes|
|5a||mixed||west face||V. Menshikov, 1967||Right Zindon valley|
Summit ViewsBelow are some informative photos taken from the summit of Energia. These photos display the names of surrounding peaks (in brown letters) and mountain passes (in blue letters).
Red TapeNo fees (environmental, climbing, etc.) as for 2011. Travellers (with a tourist visa) staying maximum 1 month are exempt from the OVIR registration as for 2011. As the conditions are vulnerable to change please check with the Tajik embassy and/or your local agency in Tajikistan.
For visas and registration, see also the chapter "Red Tape (Visas, Border Crossing, Registration etc.)" in the Fan Mountains page.
When to ClimbThe mountaineering season is from June to September (July and August being the most popular months), when the weather is usually stable, warm and dry.
- A topographic map of the Fan Mountains
- A map of the area by V. Kopylov. Mountaineers' camp "Vertical-Alaudin" is marked as "Base camp" on this map.
- 1:100 000 topographic map of the Fan Mountains by EWP
- Russian military topographic maps (scale 1:100 000 and 1:200 000) at Mapstor.com
- Russian military topographic maps (scale 1:50 000 and 1:100 000) at Poehali.org
- Fan Mountains 2009 by A. Burke. An excellent photo trip report about trekking (including the mountain passes Chimtarga and Mirali) and climbing (Zamok, Energia) around the Mutnye Lakes.