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Mountains & Rocks



Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Tajikistan, Asia

Lat/Lon: 39.18144°N / 68.19935°E

Object Title: Energia

Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Mixed

Season: Summer

Elevation: 16798 ft / 5120 m


Page By: JanVanGenk

Created/Edited: Nov 28, 2011 / Nov 28, 2011

Object ID: 762620

Hits: 4631 

Page Score: 82.48%  - 15 Votes 

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Energia (which means "Energy" in Russian) is one of the 5000-meter peaks in the Fan Mountains. It is located near the Mutnye Lakes, very close to the highest peak in the region - Chimtarga (5489 m), from which it is separated by the Chimtarga pass (4750 m). The easiest route to the summit is a Russian grade 2b route along the north ridge/north face.

The ascent routes start either from the Mutnye Lakes (which lie at the upper end of the Chapdara valley) or from the Right Zindon valley. The latter can be reached either by hiking in from west via the Big Allo Lake, or from east via the Mutnye Lakes by crossing over the Chimtarga pass (4750 m).

Energia from the Chimtarga pass
Energia as seen from the Chimtarga pass (4750 m).
SE face of Energia
The SE face of Energia (5120 m) as seen from the upper Kaznok valley.
South face of Energia
The south face of Energia.

Energia from the upper Kaznok valley
Energia as seen from the upper Kaznok valley. Far ahead are the mountain passes Kaznok East and VAA, which connect the Kaznok valley with the Mutnye Lakes at the upper end of the Chapdara valley.

Energia from east
Energia as seen from east.

Getting There

A usual starting point for climbing in the area is the mountaineers' camp "Vertical-Alaudin" (2641 m) in the Chapdara Valley near the gorgeous Alaudin Lakes. From there it is an easy 7 km hike of about 3 hours up to the Mutnye Lakes (3519 m). There is a possibility to hire donkeys at "Vertical-Alaudin".

Chapdara valley
A panoramic view of the Chapdara valley near mountaineers' camp "Vertical-Alaudin".

Trail to the Mutnye Lakes
Route from the Big Alaudin Lake to the Mutnye Lakes.
Camp at the Mutnye Lakes
Camping at the Mutnye Lakes.
View on Energia from near the Mutnye Lakes
Approaching the Mutnye Lakes, looking SW towards Energia.

For more information, see the chapters "Getting There and Getting Around" and "Accommodation - Places to Stay - Camping" in the Fan Mountains page.


The established routes vary from Russian grade 2b to 5a (description of the Russian climbing grades can be found
here). The website of "Vertical-Alaudin" contains detailed information about the more difficult routes on Energia (in Russian only). These links are included in the following table.

Grade (Russian) Characteristics Orientation First Ascent (Leader, Year) Starting Point
2b mixed north ridge/north face E. Kazakova, 1937 Mutnye Lakes
4a rock east ridge Iu. Pivnenko, 1973 Mutnye Lakes
4a mixed west ridge Iu. Karpov, 1967 Right Zindon valley
5a mixed NE face A. Neplokhov, 1979 Mutnye Lakes
5a mixed west face V. Menshikov, 1967 Right Zindon valley

North face  route
The north face route (Russian grade 2b) to the summit of Energia.
North face of Energia
The north face of Energia: abseiling the steepest part of the route.
Peak Energia
Descending the steep north face of Energia.

Summit Views

Below are some informative photos taken from the summit of Energia. These photos display the names of surrounding peaks (in brown letters) and mountain passes (in blue letters).

Summit panorama
A 270° panoramic view from the summit of Energia from E to N (looking south).

Summit panorama
A 360° panorama from the summit of Energia.

Summit view
A view SE from the summit of Energia.
Summit view
A view east from the summit of Energia.
Summit view
A view from the summit of Energia towards the Mutnye Lakes.

Summit view
A view south towards the Biriuzovoe Lake (in the middle) from the summit of Energia.
Summit view
At the summit of Energia, looking SW.
Right Zindon valley
At the summit of Energia, looking NW towards the Right Zindon valley.

Chimtarga as seen from Energia
The south face of Chimtarga, as seen from the summit of Energia (5120 m).

Red Tape

No fees (environmental, climbing, etc.) as for 2011. Travellers (with a tourist visa) staying maximum 1 month are exempt from the OVIR registration as for 2011. As the conditions are vulnerable to change please check with the Tajik embassy and/or your local agency in Tajikistan.

For visas and registration, see also the chapter "Red Tape (Visas, Border Crossing, Registration etc.)" in the Fan Mountains page.

When to Climb

The mountaineering season is from June to September (July and August being the most popular months), when the weather is usually stable, warm and dry.

External Links


  • A topographic map of the Fan Mountains
  • A map of the area by V. Kopylov. Mountaineers' camp "Vertical-Alaudin" is marked as "Base camp" on this map.
  • 1:100 000 topographic map of the Fan Mountains by EWP
  • Russian military topographic maps (scale 1:100 000 and 1:200 000) at Mapstor.com
  • Russian military topographic maps (scale 1:50 000 and 1:100 000) at Poehali.org

Trip reports

  • Fan Mountains 2009 by A. Burke. An excellent photo trip report about trekking (including the mountain passes Chimtarga and Mirali) and climbing (Zamok, Energia) around the Mutnye Lakes.


Summit panoramaPeak EnergiaEnergia from the Right Zindon valleySE face of EnergiaEnergia from eastEnergia from the upper Kaznok valleyEnergia from south
EnergiaNorth face  routeSummit panoramaSouth face of EnergiaSummit viewEnergia from the Chimtarga passEnergia
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