Complete Traverse

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Grandjean Peak
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Complete Traverse

Page Type:	Route
Lat/Lon:	44.11280°N / 115.0969°W
Route Type:	Hiking, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Aid Climbing, Mixed, Scrambling
Season:	Spring, Summer, Fall
Time Required:	A long day
Rock Difficulty:	5.6 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:	4
Grade:	IV
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Overview

A complete traverse of all 5 Grandjean's summits is one of the Sawtooth Range's top climbing feats. Perhaps only climbing Baron Spire with it's bolt ladder and stiff climbing could rank as a more impressive achievement. Four of the five Grandjean towers involve 5th class climbing, rappeling, and complex route finding. There are many opportunities to avoid technical sub towers and drop down and around to get to the next summit tower. Staying faithful to the summit ridge would be quite an achievement.

Grandjean Traverse

The west to east traverse will be described here. The West summit is Point 9105 and contains a summit register. Reaching this point involves just Class 3 climbing in very steep terrain. After reaching this point, rappel down to a prominent notch, just east of 9105. From the notch, ridge traverse roped a knife edged ridge (4-5) to the base of the Summit Tower #2. Ascend this tower (low 5th) and rappel down the other side. Traverse the ridge again and make a similar push up and over Tower #3. Tower # 4 is the next obstacle and it will require 3-4 pitches from the base to get up. Double rappel the other side and ridge traverse an exposed and loose section to the base of the 5th and tallest summit tower. Depending on the exact line (there are variations) the climbing on Grandjean's true high point will be 5.4-5.7. The ridge leading up is knife-edged and could cut the inside of your leg (it's happened). Rappel 1 rope off the east side as you gaze at Tohobit and Warbonnet. Scramble east and north through rocks, brush, and scree to reach Baron Creek.

Getting There

From the trailhead hike South along the Grandjean trail for 1 1/2 miles until it reaches the South Fork of the Payette River. Take the Baron Creek fork to the East (left) and continue up the trail for approximately 1 mile for the 9105 scramble. Look for the avalanched hillside with a path coming down from up and to the left (east). Cross Baron Creek where you can- can be very difficult in high water. For the 9144 climb, continue 3 miles past the first junction near the South Fork Payette / Baron Creek Trail split.

Essential Gear

-2 ropes -rack of nuts, cams -runners -many, many leave behind slings or cords -pitons (assorted selection) -hammer -helmet -ice ax / cramp-ons if early season -a camera to document