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Connecticut Climbing Areas
List

Connecticut Climbing Areas

 
Connecticut Climbing Areas

Page Type: List

Location: Connecticut, United States, North America

Object Title: Connecticut Climbing Areas

 

Page By: Dan the Jones, Dustiano

Created/Edited: Nov 2, 2006 / Nov 1, 2010

Object ID: 240871

Hits: 9073 

Page Score: 81.17%  - 13 Votes 

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Introduction

While researching Connecticut climbing and bouldering areas we came to the conclusion that it is very difficult to locate them here. Our state is lacking in obvious areas to climb, in fact most are located deep in the woods, down some long-forgotten trail or under cover of trees. Word of mouth doesn’t travel quickly in our small climbing community, making it difficult for useful beta to find a home. Please use this page as a source for finding a place to climb, or for adding your own. We will update the links and additional information as we visit new areas or someone posts new info. Thanks!

The evolving list:


Climbing Area
Town
Directions
Burlington Burlington From route 8, take exit 42. Go east on rte 118, toward Burlington. At some point rte 118 becomes rte 4. Continue straight on rte 4 toward Burlington. When you reach the intersection of rte 69, take a right and head south toward Bristol. Go about 2 miles till you see small cemetery on your left, take an immediate right. This is Scoville Rd, but there is no street sign. However, there is a sign for Tunxis Trail at this intersection. Follow this road, (very windy) which turns into West Chippens Hill Rd. for about 2 miles until you see the Burlington Fire Dept on your left. Take an immediate right onto Greer Rd. Go a short distance until you see a pond on you left. Park somewhere and follow the Tunxis Trail. Tunxis Trail is on the right side of the pond. Trail may skirt over some small rock outcrops. Follow the trail until you see an obvious cliff that looks like a climbing spot. The trail from the pond to the cliff is approx. 3/4 to 1 mile hike.
Cathole Meriden From Waterbury: I-84 east to I-691 east. Get off at exit 5. Make left onto route 71. See below.

From New haven\Middletown:I-691 west. Get off at mall exit 6. Make a left at end of ramp, left at end of road at the light. Go up to end of road, about 1/2 mile, make right onto route 71 east. Stay on route 71 for about 1/2 mile. There will be a long paved pull off on the right, park here. Walk to start (east end) of pull off, look for trail on right. Head up hill, trail will bend left up through large boulders to cliff. 100 yards from road.
Chatfield Hollow Killingworth The parking area is on route 80. From the point where 79 meets 80, go east exactly 2.7 miles. There will be a pullout on the right. From the pullout - cross the street and head back the way you came - about 50 yards. There is a small group of rocks/cliff on the right side of the road; at the end of the rocks there is a guardrail. Between the rocks and the guardrail is where the trail starts; it almost immediately splits right and left, go left and down and you'll be at the cliffs in about 5 minutes or less.
Devil's Den
Great Ledge
 
Redding There are two ways to access the Great Ledge easily:

Dayton Road: A longer but well-worn path. Access Route 53 from either the south (from the Merritt/Route 15) or north (I84) and drive until you reach Saugatuck Reservoir. In the middle of the reservoir you will see Tudor Road on the opposite side of the street. Follow it up the hill until you see Dayton Road on the right. The trail head is on the left, parking on the right, 41.45075 -73.432944. You have to walk up a driveway to get to the trail. Follow the Pinchbeck Trail on white, then yellow, then white blazes for 1/2 mile until you reach the top of Great Ledge, where a nice view of Saugatuck Reservoir awaits you.

Route 53: A shorter, but less obvious path. Access Route 53 from either the south (from the Merritt/Route 15) or north (I84) and drive until you reach Saugatuck Reservoir.In the middle of the reservoir look for a giant red and white "No Littering" sign on the opposite side of the road. The 5-vehicle parking area lies 100 feet north of the sign on the reservoir side. Once you've parked, cross the street and head perpendicularily into the woods. The Great Wall is about 800 feet into the forest, curving slightly to the left and uphill.
East Peak
CT fall colors by belay...
 
Southington From Waterbury:I-84 east to I-691 east. Get off at exit 4. Make right at end of ramp. Go about .75 miles, make left into Hubbard Park.

From New haven\Middletown:I-691 west. Get off at exit 4.Make a left at end of ramp. Go about .75 miles, make left into Hubbard Park. If gate to castle is open then: Drive up road along reservoir, about a 1/2 mile past the reservoir road will fork go left and park by castle. IF gate to castle is closed then: Park in main parking lot, walk past gate up road to reservoir. Turn left and continue on dirt road along shore until road curves sharply around left, turn right at this point and cross a small stream bed and diagonal up left through the woods several hundred feet to scree slope. Hike up left side of slope to a faint trail that leads to base of cliff near route "shades of Grey" & Grey corner".
Electric Rocks Southington From Waterbury : Take 84 to 691; take the exit for route 322 (exit 4?), End of ramp make a left.

From New haven\Middletown: Take 691 north (west), take exit for route 322 (exit 4?). End of ramp make a right. Then: Go a short ways and make a right onto rte 120, at a light make a right onto Savage. Follow to end make another right onto East. When you see the entrance to YMCA Camp Sloper, park on the street (or just onto the grass) by the entrance. Approach: Walk through the entrance and up the Camp Sloper driveway - if you look up from here you should see the power lines and the cliff. Continue walking up through their parking lot and onto the lawn staying to your right as you walk along the edge of the woods. After approx 100yds there is an obvious trail on your right that heads into the woods and under the power lines. Do not turn onto any paths that would lead out from under the general power line area (there is a fork where you must stay left). Soon the path heads to the right and up a rocky slope, there is a cliff in front of you now but this is not the main climbing area. Continue on as the path heads left to the main climbing area. As you reach the cliff you can fork right to the top of the cliff, or fork left to walk along its base.
Firewall Plainville From Waterbury: I-84 east to exit 34, Crooked St., make a right at end of ramp. go to end of road, 1/8 mile, make a right at light. go about 1/3 mile make 1st left onto Ledge Rd. go about 2-3 miles, look for town parking lot on left by reservoir.

From Hartford: I-84 west exit 34 (same exit for Pinnacle) route 72, get off at 1st exit, end of ramp make aright. go to traffic light at Crooked St. intersection (wicker shop on left, Sunoco gas station across intersection on right), make a right at light - cross back over I-84. go to end of road, about 1/4 mile, make a right at light. go about 1/3 mile make 1st left onto Ledge Rd. Go about 2-3 miles, look for town parking lot on left by reservoir. From the parking area at the reservoir (which is actually on Shuttle Meadow Rd, ledge Rd turns into Shuttle Meadow rd), Follow the shoreline trail on the south side (right side) of the lake for about 10-15 mins until it curves around to the north by a open area of large hemlock trees on a slope. Head up hill for a few hundred feet to the cliff. Cliff should be visible from the shore line.
Lone Pine Plainville Follow Driving Directions to Pinnacle. Trial is across from pond by dirt pull off. Hike up until you see the cement blocks, continue past blocks staying on the dirt road for another 100 yards, cliff will be on right about 50 yards off road.
Ragged Mountain - Citadel Southington From Waterbury:I-84 east to I-691 east. Get off at exit 5.Make left onto route 71. See below.

From New haven\Middletown:I-691 west. Get off at mall exit 6.Make a left at end of ramp, Left at end of road at the light. Go up to end of road, about 1/2 mile, make right onto route 71 east. See below.Then:Stay on route 71 for about 4 miles. At fork go left onto 71a, make immediate left onto Reservoir rd. Go to end of road make right onto Andrews. Make immediate left (across street) and park on street in development. Do not park next to anyone's mailbox. Walk back down reservoir road about 1/3 mile. Turn left up long dirt driveway, about 100 yards up take trail on right This will bring to small cliff. Head up rock gully on left side to top of small cliff and blue trail. Go right on trail for about 500 ft. to the top of cliff, look for 4 ft high rectangular wall. A descent gully splits the cliff into 2 sections.
Ragged Mountain – Main Cliff Southington Follow Driving Directions to Ragged Mtn Citadel. Walk back down reservoir road about 1/3 mile. Turn left up long dirt driveway, follow to near top when driveway makes a sharp left take trial on right, go 20ft. take small trial leading back left, follow trial to main cliff about .25 miles when trial forks go left along base.
Ragged Mountain – May Crack Southington Follow Driving Directions to Ragged Mtn Citadel. Walk back down reservoir road about 1/3 mile. Turn left up long dirt driveway, about 100 yards up take trail on right This will bring to small cliff. Head right along base of cliff go around the corner (by very large boulder, go about another 100 yards to a short 30-40 ft high cliff.
Ragged Mountain – Owl’s Lair Southington Follow Driving Directions to Ragged Mtn Citadel. Walk back down reservoir road about 1/3 mile. Turn left up long dirt driveway, about 100 yards up take trail on right This will bring to small cliff. Head up rock gully on left side to top of small cliff and blue trail. Go right on trail for about 5-10 minutes. Cliff is at a clearing with a fire ring and large 6 Ft. high bolder.
Rattlesnake Mountain – Greenwall via Route 6 Plainville Follow Driving Directions to Ragged Mtn Citadel. Walk back down reservoir road about 1/3 mile. Turn left up long dirt driveway, about 100 yards up take trail on right This will bring to small cliff. Head up rock gully on left side to top of small cliff and blue trail. Go right on trail for about 5-10 minutes. Cliff is at a clearing with a fire ring and large 6 Ft. high bolder.
Rattlesnake Mountain – Greenwall via Pinnacle Plainville Follow driving directions to Pinnacle. Go past regular parking spot. After old dirt pull out make right up hill. Make next right down dead-end road. Park at end. Walk in on trail. Trail should bend to left. About 10 min. walk.
Rattlesnake Mountain – Porcupine Hole Plainville Follow driving directions to Rattlesnake MT - Greenwall. Walk in on (TV tower access road) paved road to the gate look for blue trial on right. Either hike trail to ridge crest 3/4 mile. The 1st set of cliffs is Porcupine hole. Hike trial to you see old road on left hike road until you pick up blue trail again. Follow above to cliff. If you are very bold walk paved road to top go beyond towers and guy wire to top of cliff.
Rattlesnake Mountain – Rattlesnake Cliff Plainville Follow driving directions to Pinnacle. Trail is across from pond by dirt pull off. Hike up old dirt road past cement blocks to ridgeline. Turn left (north\ northeast) onto Met comet trail follow that for about .75 miles to base of cliff.
Rattlesnake Mountain - Pinnacle Plainville From Waterbury:I-84 east to exit 34, Crooked St., make a left at end of ramp. Go to end of road for about 1/4 mile. Make a left at light. Go about 3/4 mile to a VW car dealer on right corner - make right at light. Go about a mile up to you see a pond on left, cliffs on right. Park anywhere there are no parking; signs. From Hartford:I-84 west to exit 33, route 72, get off at 1st exit make a right at end of ramp. Make a left at light by VW dealer onto Metacomet. Go about a mile up to you see a pond on left, cliffs on right. Park anywhere there are no "no parking" signs. Hike: Trial is across from pond by dirt pull off. Hike up until you see cement blocks then head right up small path to base of cliffs. Continue right along base.
Rattlesnake Mountain - Pinnacle Nike Base Plainville Hike up to Pinnacle base, continue right along base base 1st-2nd-3rd cracks. At end head up to ridge line and continue heading right on blue trail. After 5-10 mins look for old fencing and small clearing (old Nike missile site) cliff is down to left.
South Mountain – Short Wall via Timberline Park Southington From Waterbury /Hartford:I-84 to 691 East. Get off at exit 5.Make a left at end of ramp onto 71 east. See below.

From New haven\Middletown:I-691 west. Get off at mall exit 6.Make a left at end of ramp, Left at end of road at the light. Go up to end of road, about 1/2 mile, make right onto route 71 east. See below.Then:Go about 3 miles, make left onto 364, follow signs to Timberland park. Once in the park find Marjorie Moore Road and Park at just around the bend (at left turn, near swing sets, Timberline), there is a small park area for about 4 cars. Park here or on side of road. Walk across the road, up small hill and intersect a larger trail. Immediately follow trail down to stream and cross bridge. Continue on this well marked trail all the way to the top of Short Wall (this well marked trail continues on to the Small Cliff)
South Mountain – Short Wall via Reservoir Road Southington Follow Driving Directions to Ragged Mtn Citadel. Walk back down reservoir road (Carey St.) about 1/3 mile. After you pass dirt driveway (which leads to small cliff), go another 300 ft. and turn right down private rd, to a sewer grate at end of cul-de-sac. Continue straight into wood and pick up Metacomet trial - blue blaze. After ducking under a giant tulip tree log there will be a trail junction. Follow blue blazes to the right and pass over old dam to reach southeast end of cliff or Go left downhill and cross several bridges to reach Northeast end of cliff. 5 to 10 minutes from road.
Saint John's Ledges
5.2-5.10c
Saint John s Ledges - Upper Wall
 
Kent From Kent center, at the monument in the middle of the intersection of Routes 7 and 341, head west on Route 341 past the Dodge dealership and over the bridge. Immediately after the bridge make a right onto Skiff Mountain Road. After about a mile bear right onto a dirt road, River Road. This road is not maintained in the winter and may be impassable after a good storm. You will pass numerous pull-offs for 1.6 miles until you reach the correct parking area, on the left. Follow the white-blazed Appalachian Trail uphill from parking area. To reach the lower climbing area look for a faint trail, on the left, 35 feet past the trail map box. To reach the upper climbing area, stay on the Appalachian Trail until it passes directly by the bottom of the cliff band.
Stonehaven Plainville From Waterbury:I-84 east to exit 34, Crooked St., make a left at end of ramp. Go to end of road for about 1/4 mile. Make a left at light. Go about 1/3 mile to Big Y shopping center.

From Hartford:I-84 west to exit 33, route 72, get of at 1st exit, make a left at end of ramp. park in Big Y shopping centers. Walk left out of big Y to Wicker shop, in back of shop head up old dirt road. Diagonal right and up hill through woods about 1/4 mile. Quarry will become visible on right. Once Near ridgeline, you should cross blue trail, continue right onto trail. Go another 1/4 mile to top of cliffs.
Seven Falls Bouldering Middletown Seven Falls State Park, south of Middletown. Route 9 south, Exit 10, Aircraft Road. At end of ramp, turn right onto Saybrook Road. In less than a mile, you drive under power lines. Parking area is on left after that. For better directions, go to http://www.wesleyan.edu/wsa/wmc/guide.html You can copy a guide to the area.
Whitestone Cliffs Watertown From I-84 East or West: Go to Waterbury. Take Exit 20 Rte 8 North.Get off exit 37 go east on 262 across the Naugatuck River. Turn right after the bridge. Take the first left. Go about 1 to 2 miles. Where Rt. 262 bends sharply right there is a small pullout on the left with a pipe gate across a dirt road. Park here. Walk in the dirt road past the gate. Take a right onto a second dirt road (note a pavilion can be seen ahead of you at this right turn). Follow the blue blaze trail, which turns right off the dirt road, crosses a brook and continues up hill to the right side of the cliff. The climbs are down hill to the left and on the west face.
Will Warren’s Den Bouldering Plainville Directions: I84 to Rte 372. At VW dealer, turn into Metacomet road. Follow road to Pinnacle Rock, sharp left. Take immediate right onto S.Ridge Road. Go to end of road at T intersection, stop sign.Then, turn right onto Forest Hills Road. Park on side of road,but do not block new construction area. Walk into woods to the right of construction. At the power line, go up a short hill, and left into woods on trail. Parallel power line until you reach a woods road. The two foot high cairn marks the way to Green Wall. don't go there. Straight back under power line. Follow to top of hill where there is a trail on left. Will Waren's Den will be visible through the trees.
Winter Wall Southington From Waterbury\Hartford:I-84 to 691 East. Get off at exit 5.Make a left at end of ramp onto 71 east. See below. From New haven\Middletown:I-691 west. Get off at mall exit 6.Make a left at end of ramp, Left at end of road at the light. Go up to end of road, about 1/2 mile, make right onto route 71 east See below.Then:Go about 3 miles, make left onto 364, follow signs to Timberland park. Once in the park find Marjorie Moore Road and park at end of cul-de-sac. From Cul-de-sac walk southwest - towards the 2nd or farthest covered picnic building, about 100 ft right of volley ball net. Walk through woods on faint trail to a stream - 100 yards. Cross it at the easiest point and continue south (left) paralleling stream to unmarked trail junction of Metacomet - blue blaze's - 200 yards. Turn right and follow Metacomet, you should pass a small spur trial on left after about 50 yards do not turn, continue about 1/3 mile. Make a sharp left turn at next junction onto dry rock streambed; this will start heading up hill. After 1/2 mile you will be at the north end descent gully. Either descend or follow trail up along cliff ridge.
Wolf Rock
5.1-5.9
Wolf Rock
 
Mansfield The roadside parking area can be found at N41.761 W72.216567. From Rt.195, travel on Brown's Road for one mile to where Crane Hill Road forks to the left. Travel on Crane Hill Rd about 0.15 miles to the crossing of the Nipmuck Trail (blue-blazed). Follow the trail (you'll see the Wolf Rock Nature Preserve sign) on the left (south) side of the road. Continue to bear left on the trail, for approximately .25 miles, until you reach the top of the upper cliff. You will know you're there when you see Wolf Rock.

Images

CT fall colors by belay...Wolf RockGreat LedgeSaint John\'s Ledges - Upper Wall