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Conquest

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Conquest

Page Type: Route

Location: Canton Uri , Switzerland, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.62023°N / 8.44583°E

Object Title: Conquest

Route Type: Sport Climbing, Big Wall

Season: Summer

Time Required: Most of a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.11d (YDS)

Difficulty: F7a, F6a obbl.

Number of Pitches: 9

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: AlbertoRampini

Created/Edited: Mar 26, 2014 / Apr 10, 2014

Object ID: 891348

Hits: 1001 

Page Score: 90.04%  - 31 Votes 

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Overview

Conquest on Graue Wand S Face

Graue Wand (Grey Wall) is located on the Gletschorn - Schöllenen ridge, just East to Gletschhorn, in the Uri Alps Group, and it's without any doubt one of the best granite climbing destinations of the whole Switzerland. After the super-classic Niedermann route, several high class routes have been climbed on its South face, getting the sun-light from middle morning through the late afternoon.
This wall draws the attention of the climbers in reason of this sunny exposition and the excellent quality of the granite.
Anyhow, the routes are 400 m long and sustained; moreover, the bad weather comes particularly quick in the Furka pass area. Anyhow, the routes are well equipped to abseil. Also the Niedermann, the easiest and super-classic route, one of the most famous granite climbs in Switzerland, mustn't to be taken lightly.
The route Conquest, realized by the brothers Remy in the year 1988, is a wonderful route, offering great granite climbing. The showpiece of the route is the impressive 50 m long and vertical jamming "super–crack”, not very easy to find in the Alps. A must!






Gletschhorn and Graue Wand
Gletschhorn and Graue Wand




Getting There

Road Access

The main town in the Furka Pass Area is Andermatt, a little town lying at St. Gotthard Tunnel Northern exit. Andermatt can be suitably approached:

- From the Wallis via Sion, Brig, Gletsch and Furkapass
- From Luzern via Altdorf
- From Bern via Interlaken , Meiringen, Grimselpass, Gletsch and Furkapass
- From Milan (Italy) via Chiasso, Lugano, Bellinzona and the St. Gottard Tunnel
- From Chamonix (France) via Martigny, Brig and Furkapass

Dawn on Graue Wand approach path
Dawn on Graue Wand approach path

Graue Wand seen from the upper part of the trail
Graue Wand seen from the approach path




The starting point to climb Conquest and the other routes on Graue Wand South face is the Furka pass road, connecting Andermatt on the Eastern side of the pass and Gletsch, on the Western side. From Andermatt take the Furkapass road, reaching the Hotel Tiefenbach m. 2110, along the same road. It’s possible to park here, or alternatively take a military toll-road (7 CHF to be payed before taking the road), starting on the right of the main road, a few hundred meters past the hotel. The gravel road cuts the walking approach time by about 20 minutes and rises with some hairpins to the Tatsch parking m. 2270.
The Graue Wand is often climbed in one day from Tatsch, a longer approach than the one from the Albert-Heim-Hütte. If you want to take it easy, you can eventually spend the night in the shelter.

Walking Approach from Tatsch

From Tatsch follow the path to the Albert Heim Hut. After about 1 hour by walking, the path forks. The right track leads to the hut, just above. If you want to climb the route in one day, leave the path to Albert Heim on the right-hand side and follow a red-white marked path in the main valley, then head to right towards the moraine beneath the clearly visible wall. Climb the snow slopes, sometimes icy and steep in the upper part. (1 hour and 45 minutes from Tatsch)

Tatsch, starting point of the trail to Albert-Heim-Hütte
Tatsch, starting point of the trail to Albert-Heim-Hütte
On the marked trail to Graue Wand
Approach - Galenstock in the background
Gletschhorn-Schöllenen ridge from Gröss Bielenhorn
Gletschhorn-Schöllenen ridge from Gröss Bielenhorn



Walking Approach from Albert Heim Hut

The approach from the hut is shorter (less than 1 hour to reach the starting point of the route). From the hut descent to the path-fork and take the track as for the previous point.

Route Description

Conquest

Summit altitude: m. 3172
Difficulty: F7a, F6a obbl. (5.11d)
Equipment: distanced fix, equipped belays
Climbing length: 390 m.
Exposure: South
First ascent: Yves and Claude Remy 1988
Starting point: Tatsch parking or Albert Heim Hut


A wonderful climb on superb granite. All the belays are bolted and there are some bolts on every pitch. Anyhow, it's absolutely advisable to bring a full rack, including a few large cams. The route is starting at 2800 m. and running in the middle of the spur located in the left sector of South Face. To find the starting point head towards a light-grey corner and reach a good terrace near the lowest point of the wall.


Beta of Conquest
Beta of Conquest, Graue Wand
Conquest, the
Conquest, the "super-crack"



Conquest report - French scale

L1 - Due to the glacier’s decrease, a few meters more is to climb and the pitch is now 55 meters long respect to the original first rope length. Climb a crack, then a chimney. 6a+, 55 m.
L2 - An easier pitch on the left of the belay near the edge. 5b, 50 m.
L3 - Up on the right of the belay, then slanting left cross the slab towards the main edge. Turn to left and climb an airy ridge to the next belay. 5a, 45 m.
L4 – An other 45 meters pitch leads to the belay under a steep wall 5c, 45 m.
L5 - A great pitch with some hard moves on thin cracks and little walls. 6a+, then 6c 35 m.

A traverse on Conquest
A traverse on Conquest
Conquest, the super crack
The 50 m. "super-crack"


L6 – The “super-crack” first pitch. From the belay traverse left and keep the crack. Climb it 6a+, 20 m.
L7 – The “super-crack” continues and becomes much harder, requiring hands and fingers jamming. 7a, 30 m. – (An easier variant is possible on the right)
L8 – Slanting right up another pitch with last difficult moves, 6a+, then 5a, 40 m.
L9 – Follow the last easier pitch to the summit , 5a, then 4a, 40 m.

Descent: rapping the route (8 abseils)

Essential Gear

Rope 2 x 60, Helmet, Friends from 0,3 to 4 BD, ten quickdraws



Hut

Albert Heim Hütte m. 2541 - S.A.C. (Swisse Alpine Club) SEKTION UTO

 
Albert Heim Hut
Albert Heim Hütte m. 2541

Red Tape

No particular restrictions in climbing and hiking. Anyhow, pay attention to these two rules:

- Free camping is not allowed in Tatsch
- Pay the ticket at the starting of the road towards Tatsch; to be fined is not a pleasant surprise after a day of hard climb...



Map

Graue Wand map
 

Where to stay

- Albert Heim Hütte m. 2541

- Hotel Tiefenbach m. 2110

Other accomodations are possible in Andermatt, where you can find some hotels and campgrounds.

When to climb

Best season goes from July to September

Meteo

MeteoSwitzerland

Guidebooks and maps

 
Guidebook Schweiz Plaisir Ost
 

- Guidebooks

“Arrampicare in Svizzera” Ed. Versante Sud
"SAC Guidebook - Urner Alpen" by T. Fullin - A. Bahnholzer


- Maps

Official Maps of Canton Uri:
CNS - Urseren 1231 1:25.000
CNS - Sustenpass 255 1:50.000

Images

The Gletschhorn - Schöllenen ridge seen from  Gröss BielenhornA traverse on ConquestBeta of Conquest, Graue WandGraue Wand seen from the approach pathGletschhorn and Graue WandThe mighty Graue Wand (Grey Wall) South FaceTatsch, starting of Albert Heim path
Dawn on Graue Wand approach pathAlbert Heim HutConquest - Starting the supercrackOn the marked trail to Graue WandConquest, the "super-crack"Guidebook Schweiz Plaisir OstGraue Wand map