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Contamine-Grisolle
Route

Contamine-Grisolle

 
Contamine-Grisolle

Page Type: Route

Location: Haute Savoie (Mont Blanc), France, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.85730°N / 6.88760°E

Object Title: Contamine-Grisolle

Route Type: Mountaineering, Mixed

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: II AD, 350m, ice up to 60°

Route Quality: 
 - 7 Votes
 

 

Page By: ben jammin, BigLee

Created/Edited: Aug 11, 2005 / Feb 14, 2009

Object ID: 166222

Hits: 13531 

Page Score: 78.27%  - 9 Votes 

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Overview

The Contamine-Grisolle is one of the easiest and more popular routes on the Mont Blanc du Tacul's North Face, which is also known as the Triangle du Tacul. The route is located on the left of the triangle, bordering the North-East Face. The lower pitches of the route follow a snow slope with the remainder climbing easy mixed ground.

The Contamine-Grisolle is shown as route D in the following overview photo:

 
TRIANGLE DU TACUL
Triangle du Tacul Routes Overview (photo by Antonio Giani)


TRIANGLE DU TACUL ROUTES OVERVIEW
Route Name Difficulty
ADiagonal Route III AD+ / D-
BContamine-Négri IV AD+
CPetit Frounet II D
DContamine-GrisolleII AD
EGabarrou-Marquis III D+
FContamine-MazeaudII AD+ / D-
GChèré Couloir II D

Approach

Catch the Aiguille du Midi telepherique up from Chamonix in the morning or start from either the Cosmiques Refuge or Abri Simond bivouac (in winter). The base of the Triangle du Tacul is reached by an easy walk across the Col du Midi.
 
Aiguille du Midi...
Descending from the Aiguille du Midi station
 
Al colle du Midi (3532 m) 01...
Traversing the Col du Midi
 
Early morning approach to the...
Approaching the Triangle du Tacul

Route Description

Contamine Grisolle (Left Edge) Route on the Tacul Triangle
The Route
 Contamine Grisolle route on...
The Route

Cross the bergschrund and climb the diagonal band of snow in three pitches (50-55°) using belays as required or moving together. The snow slope gradually narrows to meet a boulder at the head of it which must be bepassed to its right by climbing a short rock wall. This is the crux move that gives access to the mixed terrain.
 
South Ridge
Lower slope
 
Climbing the couloir at the beginning of Contamine Grisolle on the triangle of Mont Blanc du Tacul
Lower snow slope
 
Triangle du tacul
Just above crux
 
Climbing on the Contamine...
Mixed ground

Follow the mixed ground to reach a band of snow them go up a narrow ice couloir to the rocky ridge (60°). Follow this ridge to the summit of the triangle.
 
Climbing mixed ground on Contamine Grisolle
Mixed ground
 
Climbing mixed ground on Contamine Grisolle
Close to the top
 
Triangle du tacul
Close to the top

Guide Books

  • "Snow, ice and mixed. The guide to the Mont-Blanc Range.", Volume 2, François Damilano, JMEditions, 2006. (A French edition is also available)
         page 122, Route 201., Contamine-Grisolle, II AD. 350m.

    Essential Gear

    Two technical axes, a few ice screws and some rock protection.

    Descent

    From the end of the rock at the apex of the Triangle du Tacul there are various options for descent, and the best choice will depend on the snow and serac conditions on the NW flank, which can be a bit treacherous at times - due caution is advised!
    1. From the apex of the triangle descend the NW Slope (150m, max 45°), which is directly adjacent to the rock on the W side. Abseils and/or down-climibing may be required. (see route 187. in "Snow, ice and mixed.")
    2. Ascend the North Ridge above the triangle and then traverse to the right into the NW flank of Mont Blanc du Tacul underneath the highest band of seracs to join the Normal Route.
    3. Ascend the North Ridge as far as the summit of the Mont Blanc du Tacul and then descend by the Normal Route.

     
    Climbing ice slopes above the...
    Upper slopes
     
    Snow slopes on the Contamine...
    Upper slopes

    Finally:
    1. It is possible to abseil the Chèré Couloir, which has much fixed gear and several in-situ belay stations (especially for the lower pitches). Be aware, however, that this is a popular route and the safety of other parties should be respected. Don't drop rocks, ice, ropes, or similar onto their heads! Double 60m ropes are recommended for the abseil descent.

    Images