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Gervasutti Couloir
Route

Gervasutti Couloir

 
Gervasutti Couloir

Page Type: Route

Location: Haute Savoie (Mont Blanc), France, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.85730°N / 6.88760°E

Object Title: Gervasutti Couloir

Route Type: 50 degree Snow/Ice

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: D-, 670m, 5~7h (D+, Scottish 3. for left hand exit, 800m 8~9h)

Route Quality: 
 - 5 Votes
 

 

Page By: Orphanage

Created/Edited: Dec 19, 2001 / Dec 19, 2001

Object ID: 156016

Hits: 13433 

Page Score: 76.24%  - 9 Votes 

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Approach


Overnight:

  • Refuges at Col de Midi (Ref Cosmiques in summer or Simond Bivouc in Winter)
  • Torino Hut

Route Description






Books: Gaston Rebuffat: Mont Blanc Massif - Selected 100 Routes
Erich Vanis: Im Steilen Eis
First Ascent:   13.Aug.1934 Giusto Gervasutti & Renato Chabod
Route: Approach 1h from Cosmiques, 2h from Torino Hut
Then simply go up 50 degree ice/snow in a straight line for 5 hours before you can decide to continue in a straight line or go to the left to the summit of Tacul.
The Icefall above the couloir is a danger that can't be avoided, but it does not unload ice too frequently.
Descent:  Walk down North-West Slopes 1-2h (often avalanche-prone in winter and spring!)
Report: none yet


Essential Gear


No belays necessary in this grade.
if you are easily scared you probably shouldn't do this anyway.
But a screw or two and some snowstakes could help then.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

MONT BLANC DU TACULThe Gervasutti Couloir as...Gervasutti Couloir