- Refuges at Col de Midi (Ref Cosmiques in summer or Simond Bivouc in Winter)
- Torino Hut
|Books:||Gaston Rebuffat: Mont Blanc Massif - Selected 100 Routes|
Erich Vanis: Im Steilen Eis
|First Ascent:||13.Aug.1934 Giusto Gervasutti & Renato Chabod|
|Route:||Approach 1h from Cosmiques, 2h from Torino Hut |
Then simply go up 50 degree ice/snow in a straight line for 5 hours before you can decide to continue in a straight line or go to the left to the summit of Tacul.
The Icefall above the couloir is a danger that can't be avoided, but it does not unload ice too frequently.
|Descent:||Walk down North-West Slopes 1-2h (often avalanche-prone in winter and spring!)|
No belays necessary in this grade.
if you are easily scared you probably shouldn't do this anyway.
But a screw or two and some snowstakes could help then.
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.