From the end of the Hwy 180, follow the trail west along the Kings River to the bridge crossing below the GrandSentinel. Wander up talus and into the gully that runs under the North Face ( the D. O. A. gully ). See approach topo ( in photos ).
Several hundred feet uphill from the Robbins / Chouinard route is a tree on a ledge below a tree on a ramp which leads right below a large roof ( see approach topo ). A 5.8 pitch leads to a belay below the roof. An exposed traverse to the right leads to a corner below a large pillar. A difficult free pitch and a difficult aid pitch lead to a large grassy ledge. 5 mixed free and aid pitches lead to the top. Most of this last section can be free climbed. This route is much cleaner ( and shorter ) than the original R. / C. route. See topo ( in photos ).
Gear depends on how much you can free climb. Thin pins and 2 sets of cams along with one hook and 15 stoppers should be good. I'm clueless if this route has had a 2nd ascent or not!
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