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Courmaon
Mountain/Rock

Courmaon

 
Courmaon

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Torino, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.45690°N / 7.23779°E

Object Title: Courmaon

County: Piedmont

Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing

Season: Summer, Fall

Elevation: 10374 ft / 3162 m

 

Page By: AlbertoRampini

Created/Edited: Jan 22, 2014 / Jan 27, 2014

Object ID: 884265

Hits: 550 

Page Score: 80.49%  - 12 Votes 

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Overview

Courmaon m. 3162




The Gran Paradiso Group, largely known for its Northern high mountains covered by glaciers, kingdom of classic old fashion mixed mountaineering, shows in its Southern side another wonderful kingdom, made of steep granite walls and beautiful hard rock climbs, both classic and modern. The complex and very interesting rocky summit of Courmaon lies inside this chain, Punta Fourà Sub-Group, in the middle of the beautiful basin overlooking the village of Ceresole Reale and its homonymous great artificial lake.
The mountain ridges create three main sides: a rocky and superb Nort-East face, overlooking the Vallone del Roc, well visible also from Orco Valley, another rocky and steep wall facing South, rising from the Boiret basin, and a scree-sloping West side. Courmaon shows a triangular rocky structure build by several shape spurs, separated by some scree-gullies.
Courmaon has an important mountaineering tradition; while the main walls of this sector of Gran Paradiso Group, as the ones lying in Piantonetto Valley and Orco Valley, had been explored later, since the early Forties a fine classic route had been realized on Courmaon: it’s the beautiful and classic East Ridge, climbed in the year 1942 by Giusto Gervasutti “il Fortissimo” and his pal Ettore Giraudo.

 
Courmaon NE side
Courmaon North-East face
 
Courmaon summit view toward Ciarforon and Tresenta
Courmaon summit cairn - Ciarforon and Tresenta in the background

Getting There

Road access

The starting point to climb Courmaon is Ceresole Reale m. 1613, a nice village lying near the great artificial Lake of Ceresole. Dam.
Road access

- From Turin (Caselle international airport) reach Courgnè and Pont Canavese mt. 461; from here follow the road entering Valle dell’Orco, reaching Locana, Rosone, Noasca and Ceresole Reale m. 1613. (Km. 35 from Pont Canavese).

- From Aosta take the Aosta-Torino motorway, exit Ivrea. From Ivrea follow the road towards Ciriè, reaching Pont Canavese. From here same access as the previous one.


 
Traditional House near Ceresole Reale
Traditional house in Ceresole Reale - Summits of Levanne in the background
 
Alpe Loserai di Sopra
The lonely Alpe Loserai di Sopra



Walking approach to Courmaon

- Approach to South face – From Borgata Capoluogo in Ceresole follow the signpost “Sentiero Natura” toward the Grand Paradiso National Park “Casotto delle Cialme” (Cialme Shelter), getting to the shelter m. 2299 (1 and a half hour) and to the little Col of Boiret m. 2498, in view of Courmaon South face. Traverse towards left on a slope, getting the moraine which leads below S face left triangle.

-Approach to North-East face – From Borgata Broc in Ceresole follow the path towards Bivacco Giaraudo, getting Colle Sià m. 2274. From Colle Sia reach the Alpe Loserai di sopra, carry on a bit, then leave the main path, rising on scree-slopes to the basal pedestal (3,30 hours from Ceresole).

History

First summiter: the topographer Guarducci 1880, August the 18th

After the S Spur ascent by the Giraudo brothers in the year 1940, it was the beautiful East ridge climbed by Giusto Gervasutti “il Fortissimo” and Ettore Giraudo in the year 1942 to draw climbers’ attention on Courmaon, which remained through several years the most famous route round about.
Since the middle of the Sixties different protagonists of Piedmont mountaineering, as Giancarlo Grassi, Ugo Manera and Gian Piero Motti started to explore the peak climbing new routes on the North-East spurs. Mountaineers’ interests started to take aim the South wall in the year 1985, when Claudio Santunione climbed a new route on this face, followed by some other routes by the same Santunione with U. Manera the next year.

Red Tape

 
P.N.G.P. - Gran Paradiso National Park logo
 


Courmaon is located inside the Gran Paradiso National Park (P.N.G.P.), established in 1922, one of most important National Parks in Italy. Free camping is not allowed and fires are strictly forbidden. The whole fauna and flora are protected. Don’t disturb fauna and other mountaineering and hikers’ peacefulness with every kind of noise.


Please respect the following rules in P.N.G.P. Gran Paradiso National Park:

Courmaon main routes

 
Courmaon NE wall topo
Courmaon North-East wall topo routes




A - East Ridge Via Gervasutti-Giraudo TD-, 5c, 300 m. – Giusto Gervasutti-Ettore Giraudo 1942
Athletic and very interesting climb of pure granite style. Some pegs in place – Friends and nuts are useful

B – Via Dagna-Sebastian D, 4c/A1

C – Via Grassi-Re D-, 4c

D – Var. Manera

E – Via Grassi-Bottaro D+, 5a, 350 m.

F – Via Manera-Delmastro D, 5a, 300 m.

G – Diretta Manera TD-, 5a/A1, 350 m. U. Manera, C.Santunione 1975 – A few pegs in place, Friends, nuts and pegs are necessary to integrate


H – Via Miglio PD, 3a, 300 m.




South Face

- Abbi Fede TD+, 6b, 6a obbl., 380 m.– V. Bertoglio – M. Oviglia 1999 - Equipped with bolts and pegs, equipped belays, friends and nuts are useful to integrate the protections in place

- Capriccio del Tempo TD, 5b/A1, 400 m. – R. and V. Sartore, S. Dalla Gasperina 1987 Trad climb, no pegs in place

- Masacu TD-, 5c/A0, 300 m. – U. Manera, C. Santunione 1986 – Trad climb, no pegs in place

- Sacuma TD, 6a/A2, 300 m. – U. Manera, C. Santunione 1986 – Trad climb, no pegs in place


Descent from the summit: downclimb on the east ridge to get the col 3077 m. between Courmaon and La Cuccagna. From the notch head towards Vallone del Roc, reaching a scree and snowy gully. Scramble down the gully, then traverse towards right to return to the Alpe Loserai di sopra.

Descent from South face: it's possible to rappel on the route "Abbi Fede" (5 abseils) without summiting.

 
Cormaon, first pitch of Gervasutti route
Gervasutti first pitch
 
Up on Gervasutti NE ridge, Courmaon
Up on Gervasutti ridge

Where to stay

Different possibilities of accomodation in Ceresole Reale.

There are not shelters or bivouac in the surroundings of Courmaon. Approach must be done directly from Ceresole Reale.

When to climb

North-East face ; best season goes from the end of June to middle September.
South face: best season goes from June to October

Meteo

Meteo Regione Piemonte

Meteo Alpi

Guidebooks and maps

 
Courmaon map
 


Guidebooks

“Rock Paradise – Arrampicate classiche, moderne e sportive nelle valli del Gran Paradiso” by Maurizio Oviglia – Collana Luoghi Verticali, Ed. Versante Sud

“Gran Paradiso – Parco Nazionale” by E. Andreis – R. Chabod –M.C. Santi - Collana Gudie dei Monti d’Italia C.A.I. TCI



Maps

"Il Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso"- Dalla Valle d'Aosta alla Valle di Ceresole 1:50.000 IGC-Istituto Geografico Centrale

"Gran Paradiso-La Grivola-Cogne" - Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso
1:25.000 IGC-Istituto Geografico Centrale

"Valsavarenche-Val di Rhemes-Valgrisenche" - Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso 1:25.000 IGC-Istituto Geografico Centrale


Images

Courmaon NE sideStarting of Gervasutti NE ridgeTraditional House near Ceresole RealeUp on Gervasutti NE ridge, CourmaonAlpe Loserai di SopraCourmaon NE wall topoCourmaon map
Gran Paradiso map 1.25.000Gran Paradiso Climbing GuidebookCourmaon summit view toward Ciarforon and TresentaCormaon, first pitch of Gervasutti routeGran Paradiso Gran Paradiso map 1:50.000P.N.G.P. - Gran Paradiso National Park logo