The Becco Meridionale della Tribolazione is a wondreful mountain. It's many visit from climbers for a perfect rock and for the beautiful route on it . It’s the most rock aiguille of the Gran Paradiso group. This summit is many famous for the south-est wall. This is 500 m higth and the beautiful wall is only 250 m, but the rock is very beautiful. It is a red “gneiss” with diedhrals and good cracks. On it there are many beautiful routes.
L. Vaccarone, A. Castagneri and A. Bogiatto in 14 June 1875 to the south-west wall
From Torino take the road SS n°460 to Ceresole Reale. When you arrived to Rosone village (16 km to Pont Canavese) take a little road on the rigth, see the sing “Piantonetto Valley”. Go to end carriage road to Teleccio Lake 1870 m, and park your car. The ascent to Becco Meridionale della Tribolazione is usually done in two stages, but it’s possible do it in only one long day. On the first day you follow the good trail to and climb 300 m of altitude from Teleccio lake (1900m) to the Rifugio Pontese (2200m). The second day is spent on the climb to the summit.
When To Climb
The best time is in the summer, the sun is on the wall since to half afternoon, but the mountain shoud be accessible in winter as well. The base wall can be very hard in case of snow.
For weather conditions check with this site: http://www.regione.piemonte.it/cgi-bin/meteo/text/meteo.cgi
There are no fees or permits that I am aware of. The whole region is part of the Parco Naturale del Gran Paradiso and thus you should take care of nature as usual within the boundaries of natural parks
Accomodation can be found in all villages of the Orco Valley. The camping is only in Ceresole Reale. In Noasca you can use the Ostello where it’s possible have a good accomodation whit a cip price In the Piantonetto Valley you can use Rif. Pontese 2200 m on Teleccio Lake Telephone: 0124/800186
South-east wall, from left:
- 1- Pin-Up - 480m - TD - max 6a+ bolted with bolts (M.Motto and V.Sartore - 1996)
- 2- Bicentenario Gasp - 350m - D - max5a Nuts and friends necessary (D.Caneparo and D.Ricchitelli - 1986)
- 3- Motto-Sartore - 190m - ED - max 7a+ min. 6a+. On the route only 3 bolts and 4 pitons,nuts and friends necessary (M.Motto and R.Sartore in 1996)
- 4- Nostradamus - 250m - TD+ - max 6c/A1 min. 5c/A2. Not bolted. Pitons, nuts and friends necessary (A.Giorda and M.Oliengo in 1982)
- 5- Grassi-Re - 250 m - TD - max 6a Bolted with pitons, nuts and friends are useful (G.C.Grassi and A.Re in 1968)
- 6- Diamante Pazzo - 250 m - TD+ - max 6a+ min. 6a. Bolted with few pitons, nuts and friends necessary (R.Sartore and R.Perrucca in 1984)
- 7- Malvassora see route page
- 8- Macchetto - 250 m - TD, - max 5c/A1. Bolted with pitons, Nuts and friends are useful (G.Macchetto, G.Re and B.Taiana in 1965)
- 9- Conto fino a zero - 250m - ED- - max 6b+ min. 6a+. Only belays are bolted. Nuts and big friends necessary. (M.Motto and R.Sartore in 1997)
- 10- Via dell'Angelo - 250 m - D - max 5c/A1 Bolted with pitons, Nuts and friends necessary. (M.Bertotti and N.Valerio in 1975)
The best for the new and classic rock climbs: “Rock Paradise” - Maurizio Oviglia – Ed. Versante Sud 4/2000. The best for classic route on ice and rock: “Gran Paradiso e Valli di Lanzo” Le cento più belle ascensioni. Gian Carlo Grassi – Ed. Zanichelli 1982 The complete guide of Gran Paradiso group: “Gran Paradiso” Guida dei Monti d’Italia E. Andreis, R. Chabod and M.C. Santi – Club Alpino Italiano, Touring Club Italiano 1980
- GAS Genova
GAS Genova site, you can see many page on mountain, rock and ice climbing in Liguria, Piemonte and Aosta Valley Italy